455 build.
July 5th, 2018, 08:18 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 2
455 build.
Hi all, I recently picked up a 1972 jet boat with a 455 olds. Got a great deal as the engine is pretty much wore out. Does anyone know what the difference between an automotive and marine engines? I want to build a superior engine for this boat. Would love any input as per what pistons, rods and camshaft to use???
July 6th, 2018, 03:00 PM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: So. Utah
Posts: 130
I don't know for sure but I really don't think there is any difference at all between them. they take a 455 and install all the necessary marine hardware. Whomever does the installation might change the cam and intake/carb but that's probably about it. If you want to build a stout 455 then I would highly suggest forged Wiseco pistons and Eagle forged H beam rods just for starters. Bernard Mondello alum. heads (not to be confused with Mondello in Paso robles, Ca.) Harland Sharp rockers. and ARP main and head bolts. Other members will be by to include thier shopping list. A good balance job will be a must do for sustained high rpm in jet boat ........ or car.
July 6th, 2018, 04:55 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: St Augustine
Posts: 2,747
A lot of boat engines had K heads, which are nothing special..
You might want to do your research, boat 455’s are run at constant rpm, and the oiling system will need attention, to assure lubrication at sustained speed. Bill Travato’s book is where I would start.
You might want to do your research, boat 455’s are run at constant rpm, and the oiling system will need attention, to assure lubrication at sustained speed. Bill Travato’s book is where I would start.
Last edited by dc2x4drvr; July 6th, 2018 at 05:01 PM.
July 6th, 2018, 06:52 PM
#4
Gary
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Gillespie County Texas
Posts: 2,220
Look for water jacket corrosion in the block and heads. It may be heavy and can interfere with good cooling.
The ideal way of removing that corrosion is through an electro-chemical process. The last commercial concern that I knew of doing this was in Indiana 10 years ago. Blocks would come back looking like they had just left the casting line.
I don't know if they are still in business. The problem is disposal of toxics, which cast iron should not generate.
If you want to read about the process, here's an article: http://oldengine.org/members/orrin/rustdemo.htm
If you're good at following directions exactly, you may decide to try it. Otherwise, skip it and buy aluminum heads.
There's a lot less heat rejection to the block; if you can still see between cylinders, you should be OK.
The ideal way of removing that corrosion is through an electro-chemical process. The last commercial concern that I knew of doing this was in Indiana 10 years ago. Blocks would come back looking like they had just left the casting line.
I don't know if they are still in business. The problem is disposal of toxics, which cast iron should not generate.
If you want to read about the process, here's an article: http://oldengine.org/members/orrin/rustdemo.htm
If you're good at following directions exactly, you may decide to try it. Otherwise, skip it and buy aluminum heads.
There's a lot less heat rejection to the block; if you can still see between cylinders, you should be OK.
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