Any of you Texas boys used this fellow? Any thoughts are encouraged, thanks.

https://waco.craigslist.org/pts/6124067959.html

 

Adam:
There's a guy named Jake Shoe up in Sanger, TX that used to build 200-4Rs. He has posted alot of good info on the web about how to make them last behind big HP/TQ motors. I talked to him about 2 years ago just to get a feel for the price to rebuild my MonteCarlo core. I'm not sure that he's still doing them because demand has gone down as everybody seems to do the LS swap with a 4L60, 4L80 automatic or a Tremec 6-speed. Not sure if that's too far for you from Marble Falls.
I plan to take mine to Mike Kurtz at Century Transmission here in the Houston area. He was one of the first transmission builders to offer after-market parts to strengthen these trannys when they started breaking behind the Buick GN turbo motors.
Rodney

 

Thanks for the info Rodney. Houston is not really that far. A day trip.
Did either of those fellas come up with a price for you including a torque converter?

 

I went to aamco. I was real scared about that but i didnt know anyone rebuilding transmissions. Mine still runs perfectly fine a year later. But i heard about these guys AFTER i had already paid aamco. I heard they do a good job. A call wouldnt hurt!
Shop (son) Bob (817) 446-7295


Irby Westmoreland (father) 817-295-4196

 

Adam:
Mike Kurtz at Century Transmission quoted me a price around $2300-2500, the price depended on how many "upgraded" parts I used. I don't remember if that included a convertor, but my core has the stock convertor so he may have included rebuilding my existing convertor in his quote. That was bout 2-3 years ago. I'm hoping my motor makes around 400HP/400TQ and Gary thought I wouldn't need to use all the performance parts to make it live behind my stroked small block. He recommended a 13-vane front pump w/hardened vanes, a hardened forward drum, and a hardened sun shell. The 3-4 clutch piston should be cut down .070 to add 1 additional friction disc, and all the servos should be increased for less clutch slipping. Look for a later core as GM was continually improving this trans as they failed in the field. The later '87-'88 units have improved internals.

 

Thanks for the info Rodney. I have an 87 GN core to use. It should have some
of the good stuff in it to possibly cut the cost some.

 

That 13 vane pump is against what most use. I have one in mine and wouldn't use one again in a performance build. The 10 vane has an advantage over the 7 vane in evening out the pulses and helping make more consistent pressure. GM must have seen some advantage to make the change to 13 vane rotor. My understanding and why a lot of the builders don't use the 13 vane is strength. They 13 vane tend to break and supposedly can break even at startup if the trans isn't full. I filled my torque converter and trans for that very reason. Otherwise I may have left the converter empty. There is 10 and 13 vane billet rotors out there but are $$$.

 

Phoenix Trans in Weatherford does great work too. Their 200 4r is around $1300 complete with torque converter and installation. Guaranteed for high torque engines. I know one friend that has one behind a built 455 and it has no problems.

 

Olds307:
The 13-vane pump was the only detail about Mike's quote that I didn't agree with. Jake Shoe in Sanger,TX told me that same info as you, that the 13-vane pump was overkill and could actually weaken the pump rotor to the point of breaking. Is a billet pump rotor required to upgrade to the 10-vane pump?
Rodney

 

The regular 10 vane should be enough for your build. I think the billet rotors are insurance and used in big power builds.

 

That sounds like the deal of the year. I will have to check them out.
Thanks Ed.


http://www.phoenixtrans.com/specialty-services/

 

Although Greg is a really great guy and outstanding builder, I have my doubts on this price... Maybe in '94.. Keep us posted

 

Ha, yes after looking at the page I was like wow, ok. I am going to check
and see what he can do with my core though.

 

If you are still looking, you may want to call this guy on CL. I don't know him, but the way the ad is worded, he maybe able to help:

https://austin.craigslist.org/pts/d/...520804640.html

 

Here's what I paid to have Mike Kurtz build my transmission.

 

He does things a bit different than most with the 13 vane pump and the super shaft and cyroed forward drum vs billet. As long as it lasts is what counts. There is no getting away on the price of upgraded parts, I figured about the same for all the necessary parts from CK. That is exactly why my car is getting a used TH350C for now.

 

Yeh, I wanted a 10-vane pump and a billet forward drum, but he assured me that this would hold up behind my 400HP small block stroker. He's been building these transmissions a lot longer than most so I deferred to his experience. I liked that he was local to me in case of problems, and his warranty starts once the car is on the road (mine is still under construction). So I figure I can really thrash on it in the first few months to see if it's gonna grenade on me. Another nice thing about his build strategy is he will make governor adjustments for free to get the shift points right, and he will re-flash the convertor if it feels too loose or too tight.

 

At the time of this post, that is what was quoted for a performance rebuild of my core and with a convertor supplied. Might be that I am a member of Olds Club and he and Murphy are good friends.

 

That kind of local service is tough to beat. I wouldn't trust my local trans shop with a 2004R.

 

Rodney, I also have a Mike Kurtz trans.

I got my core off eBay back in 2003 or 2004. It is a 7BRF (87 Buick Grand National).

I took a different route. I had a neighbor who is a GM trans tech. I had always wanted to see inside and rebuild an auto trans, so struck up a deal with him to rebuild the trans in my garage.

We disassembled and cleaned all the parts and off I went to Century Trans to meet with Mike and buy all the good parts. My shopping list looks a lot like yours with a Circle D 2800 stall lockup converter. I spent about $1400 on parts and machine work to add an additional clutch. Mike was extremely helpful and enthusiastic with my project.

My neighbor and I rebuilt the trans and I have never looked back.

I've put about 15000 miles on the car and never had a problem. Strictly a street car. I have made several trips in it to the Hill Country and got 15 MPG.
When I take the car out it see’s 6000+ shifting into second at least once during the outing.

The 200-4r is a great upgrade for a Cutlass.

BTW, Rodney, what part of Houston are you in?

Steve.Winner.1@GMail.com

 

Steve:
Thanks for your comments. I toyed with the idea of rebuilding my own transmission, as this car represents a bunch of bucket-list things that I've always wanted to do and I want to do as much of the car myself as possible. The last Olds Cutlass I built was in 1989, it was a on-frame restoration and I hired someone to do the engine & transmission and all the body work & paint.
I'm really glad I took the transmission to Mike as my core had some critical parts that needed replacing and it also had a trans-brake kit installed (which Mike removed). I live off Westheimer, a few miles past the West Loop in Houston.

Rodney