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1988 Cutlass Supreme Classic Last Edition - what should I offer for it? (Family Buy)
So, I found this fourm while trying to do research on my grandparents White 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Classic Last Edition. Thing is, I can't find much about this car's trim level anywhere online. I've only seen a few things online about it, but not much else. From what I gather from the things i have managed to come across, the last 1,000 units of this car that were produced by GM in 1988 were apparently given this "last edition" badge, before they changed the overall design and drive train from rear wheel to front wheel for the next model year.
As far as I know, the only real issue the car i know for certian is all exterior things; the vyinl roof top needs replaced, as it's starting to fall apart slightly due to age i assume, the exterior light covers are faded, both headlights and taillights. The oldsmobile emblems need replaced, also due to fading, and, from what my grandfather has mentioned, the automatic exteding/retracting radio antenna has been replaced multiple times over many years, to just break within a year or so after being replaced. Paint is in pretty good shape too, but I have not looked underneath the car yet for rust, but I expect at least a slight amount, As the car was used as a daily for my grandmother from I assume 1988/1989 - 2009, and she and my grandfather live in Indiana, in the Ohio River Valley Area (Richmond, IN), Since then it's been in the garage. Interior is in nearly immaculate condition honestly for its age. Red velvet interior, woodgrain dash, power windows, locks, steering, mirrors, and cruise control, all work, even the radio and speakers too.
-odometer is at least at 90,000 miles.
-Automatic transmission; 4 speed with Overdrive
-V8 with carburetor , but not sure which liter/displacement, but being the best options are on this car, I would assume it's the highest engine option too.
-All mechanical aspects of the car are in great shape, as My grandparents kept maintenance up on it.
-takes a few times to start, but it fires up eventually.
the main question is then, what amount should I offer my grandparents for it?
And the second question is, do I risk driving it cross-country, all the way back to Casa Grande, AZ from Richmond, IN? Or do I have it put on a auto transporter?
My long term goal is to keep it, and *maybe* in the distant future sell it. I want to get it back into a prisitne condition, and near-original as possible.
I've had a lot of good memories in that car, and have driven it more than a few times now. I love the car, and I am willing to get my hands dirty to keep it maintained properly and clean, despite my Age. I also have a friend that is more than willing to help me work on it, who is a self taught mechanic.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all!
Last edited by JCillian; May 3rd, 2022 at 04:05 AM.
Revised, I sent that first message to the right spot.
Anyway, I second what 69HO43 advised just below on driving vs transporting. Add in the fact that who is going to stock something you will need in a pinch if you get stranded (virtually no one) and there you have it. I always carry extra headlights, bulbs, a water pump, alternator, belts, hoses, etc. and believe it or not all this stuff fits nicely in the trunk on that shelf right under the speakers. Must haves. Besides, that would be 1000 miles less on a motor that already has 90,000+ miles on it. Just not worth the risk until the car is completely gone through, IMHO
Last edited by BlueCalais79; May 3rd, 2022 at 07:17 AM.
Sounds like the choke or carburetor needs a bit of adjustments/rebuilding if it's hard starting like that. It happens to a lot of 307s, which is what your engine is. Unfortunately, there was only one engine for your car, and you have it. It's not top of the line anything. It's a peanut-port 140 hp engine that is generally reliable but usually plagued with little piddly issues that can and do add up. It's the last of the RWD Cutlass. The transmission is the 200-4R with overdrive, so there's that. The 307s with computer command control (CCC) for whatever reason HATE vacuum leaks. So old vacuum hoses would need looking at as well, as well as seeping coolant leaks from (pick a corner) any corner where the intake meets the heads. Not saying you have those issues, just saying that it's not rare.
I see no pictures, so I can only imagine how it looks based on what you wrote. There wasn't anything super special about the car itself being a last edition. The interior is called Dark Claret. Should be RPO 79 on your body tag and the SPID sticker inside the trunk. The vinyl tops on these cars collected water and rust underneath, and you need to watch out for that. Look for rust under the top. If it rusts through on you, that will be misery. They didn't build them to last 40+ years. As far as the radio antenna, the best thing to do is get hold of 88hurstolds on here and see if he has any of those metal cable antenna repair kits which will permanently fix your electric antenna. The originals had nylon cords that would dry out and get brittle and crack, break, and leave you in the same spot you were in before.
With 90K miles on it, it's still got life left in it. Although with the fading and probably cracking issues of the taillights you've described are again, fairly common complaints. If it spent time in the Indiana winters, you need to double check the rear frame rails and under the doors (crawl under and inspect). The rear frame rails are almost like sacrificial anodes on these cars. They seem to almost dissolve the minute you get them into a winter environment due to a flimsy frame. If the car was undercoated or something, it may or may not have helped. If the tails aren't cracked or damaged, you may can polish them back to their former glory, or close to it. The headlights are a different story. They tend to haze over, which can be fixed, but again, I've never had to do it. And if it ever happens, I already have nice spares for mine. It is hard to find good replacements for the taillights and headlights on these cars.
Also, check to make sure there's no water leaks into the cars. It doesn't take long to get to Flintstones Flint-mobile status with the floorboards if water sits in it. So you need to get it up on a lift and do a good inspection underneath.
Be careful of the Oldsmobile emblems you replace. The crappy repro ones are not for your trunk nor your header panel. The trunk repro emblems are for 84 and earlier, and the repro header emblems look like dog crap. What you need is p/n 20000969 for the trunk emblem, and for the front header you need p/n 22519370. Get the GM ones, you'll be much happier. The repro ones aren't right for the '88. Your rocket nose emblem may need replacing due to fading. It originally is red, but they tend to fade badly to gold hue then silver. The red just seems to go away. Although not entirely perfect, the repro nose rocket from the Parts Place is a pretty decent repro for the price. Don't know how well they hold up, but to find and get an NOS GM one it will be pretty pricey. The nose rocket GM p/n is 22528812.
Hard to say what the value you can put on it as is. I know people have been getting prompt stupid with asking prices, but if he's your grandfather, offer him $5K if it's otherwise as in good as shape as you describe with no rust. Give him more for it than what it's worth for sentimental value (which to me, based on what you wrote, should be closer to around $3500 or so). Sounds like it's going to need a few thousand bucks into a decent paint job and vinyl top replacement at a minimum. But it's hard to get to a fair value point with family depending on how tight you are with your grandparents. So start negotiating. Ask him what he would take for it. If you think it's too low, just give him more. Then everyone is happy and family harmony is maintained. Hard to put a price on family.
As far as driving it back, ask your grandfather. If he's been doing the maintenance on it and keeping it in good shape, there's nothing more fun than to take a family vehicle across country. Again, make sure the belts, hoses, coolant, trans fluid, and tires are in good shape to make the trip. If it's been parked since 2009, you probably wouldn't want to chance it on nearly 15 year-old stuff. If you're not sure, I'd bring a trailer and eliminate the guesswork.
I do not recall the transmission having a 4-speed, rather a 3-speed. What size is the motor? There was only one V-8 engine, irrespective of the 5.0 Liter H.O. which I believe was not in that model year. What does it have for a transmission: a 200 or 350. The 200's need to be rebuilt at about 100,000 miles. At 90,000 miles it really does not stand to reason that the landau (rag) roof is coming apart. I have a 1986 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham and the only thing about the 'rag' roof is that the underlying pins under the trim pieces rust and bleed through eventually. Even with the utmost care, there's nothing any can do about it. How a retracting antenna has been replaced many times does not make any sense. As well, I have a retracting antenna on my Olds' with 166,000 miles and the antenna still works perfectly. To me, it sounds like the car was in some other hands. Seeing that your 'grandparents' kept maintenance records 'on it', look at the antenna replacement receipts. The 'last edition badge' really meant nothing as Oldsmobile just used spare parts from other years to close out the line. Seeing that your 'grandparents' have the vehicle, 'They should give it to you for free'. And, the head gasket's are prone to leaks. The intake manifold has to be machined and polished. On my car, that task was done not once, but twice. The carburetor, if most likely Rochester is almost due to be rebuilt or overhauled, no question.
* Take some pictures of the motor and upload them. I'll tell you right at that point how the Oldsmobile was cared for and if it's worth purchasing; no matter who has it. "I proved" ten out of 10 people wrong when they told me their ghost stories of mileage on the engine. I got each to admit that they really didn't know after I examined the engine and questioned them. Many said, 60,000 or 90,000 but when I inspected the motor, "just by looking" it was an outright 'joke'. One person even admitted after some time that a junkyard 'must have replaced it'. This is the generation we're living and it surely is not getting any better.
Last edited by synoptic12; May 3rd, 2022 at 06:05 AM.
Hi Everyone!
thanks for the fast replies, i appreciate the info ive been given thus far.
im going to try to go back this summer to visit my grandparents, so when I do, I'll look for the issues while I'm their.
* No offense, but the last word in your reply should be "there" not 'their'. When one writes, people pay attention to the details in terms of a response. There is an
'edit' button as you can correct the lower [ i.-I] case to upper case. Good luck on your venture.
* No offense, but the last word in your reply should be "there" not 'their'. When one writes, people pay attention to the details in terms of a response. There is an
'edit' button as you can correct the lower [ i.-I] case to upper case. Good luck on your venture.
That's certainly understandable. However, some that may wish to respond to the content, view how the response or question is structured. Anyway, meant no offense. Just trying to assist you in the future. By no means am I immune from such things.
If you could, try to upload some pictures of the motor. That will provide me what type of car you're looking to buy. Just the motor is enough.
There is only one motor and transmission available for 1988, even for Canadian cars. It is the 5L Vin Y V8 and 2004R trans with 3000 rpm full throttle upshifts, at least mine had them. It could have either 2.56 or 3.08 in either open or posi. All your option codes will be on the trunk lid. I agree unless it is gone through first, rent a trailer.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; May 3rd, 2022 at 06:14 PM.
There is only one motor and transmission available for 1988, even for Canadian cars. It is the 5L Vin Y V8 and 2004R trans with 3000 rpm full throttle upshifts, at least mine had them. It could have either 2.56 or 3.08 in either open or posi. All your option codes will be on the trunk lid. I agree unless it is gond through first, rent a trailer.
I believe you may be right. I was unsure of the 4R for my 86' only has a 3R. Apparently, Olds' made a "BIGGGGG" upgrade 'Really'. My rear axle is 2.14, so anything above that is surely a bonus. Either the 2.56 or 3.08 would suffice as being O.K, far better than my 'highway gears'. By the way, people are really 'tricking' out the 200 transmission. It is not a gray horse as many have believed. In fact, I prefer my 200 over the 350.
Last edited by synoptic12; May 3rd, 2022 at 12:58 PM.
The 1988 Cutlass Supreme Classic got the 5.0L 307 engine and 200-4R as standard equipment. I have a "brochure" fold out picture somewhere I can't find right now that shows that.
But here's a "factory photo" promotional picture dated September 1987 that spells out you get the 5.0 and OD transmission. With literally FEW tiny little changes that didn't amount to a hill of beans, the RWD 1988 was a virtual clone of the 87.
If you choose to drive it try to find an older mechanic that worked on cars of this era to check it over before the road trip. Perhaps your friend that is a mechanic could drive it back with you. Having it transported is the safest but less fun option.
305= Chevy
307 = Olds
and for good measure,
301 = Pontiac.
Somebody who is a little more expert than I am on G-body engines can chime in on engine applications across years and lines.
Basically, there's not much to know. You are correct.
1.) 307 Had either the 5A or 7A cylinder heads (Swirl Port) - Oldsmobile engine. 140 Horsepower (Depending on Year) I believe the 5A Heads were on 85' and prior.
2.) 305 was the H.O. with about 20 more horsepower (442) Absolute joke.
Don't know anything of the 301 Pontiac.
Last edited by synoptic12; May 4th, 2022 at 10:35 AM.
The 1981 through 1988 Cutlass that had 305 or a 307, was one a Oldsmobile engine and the other a Chevy engine?
If so, was both used from 1981 to 1988?
Considering we're talking about OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS cars, if V8, generally, yes. Not all years got all engines though. 260s were snuck in there as well. I don't know of any 301s in a Cutlass. As pointed out, export and Canadian-sold cars USUALLY were shipped with Chevy engines which also included the 267 if they built them in Canada. And there were many earlier G-bodies without CCC that were sold in Canada as well. Interesting that V8 cars sold in the US between 81-88 were Olds V8s, even if built in Canada. I know of no Chevy engines put in a U.S. bound Cutlass between 81-88, but not saying that never happened. We're talking GM here. They did have a 307 shortage at the beginning of 1984 model year until around Thanksgiving I think, and they put constraints on them. During the freeze, you either got a V6 or had to get a big body car or Hurst/Olds to be guaranteed a 307 for a U.S. dealership car.
The G-body can handle a plethora of engine/transmission combinations, and that's one of the sweet deals for many engine swappers. Obviously to a point, but they had a lot of factory engine options depending on the car line.
83-84 Hurst/Olds and 85-87 442 ALWAYS got Olds 307s (aka Olds VIN 9 engine) no matter what country they went to. ALWAYS. The 83/84 H/O and 85 442 got the flat tappet cam with 5A heads and A4 intake. 180 HP. The 86-87 442 got a roller cammed engine, 7A heads with A5 intake, and all the VIN 9 roller engines even shared the same exact carburetor number, 17086009. They had 170 HP, but a little more torque than the flat tappet VIN 9 engine. The roller cam VIN 9 engine was also used in Cadillacs until 1990, with the same carb number as the 86, so if you weren't confused enough.
May 3rd, 2022, 03:55 AM
