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My Dad and I recently bought a 72 cutlass. We are new to the classic car game and are looking forward to learning from this forum! We've been researching the 72 cutlass options and I have the original option codes on the vehicle.
IIt now needs a paint job and We'd like to restore it to original. It has a spoiler and black stripes today. We believe the spoiler to be original but do not see an option code for it on the build sheet. I have located a few pictures of the car over the years and it looks like the black stripes were added later. Could the 72 have come with the stripes and spoiler but not be an option that was actually listed? Maybe after market?
The engine is a matching #'s 455, currently has 442 badging but does not have a W29 code. Color is original. Thanks for any help!
Congratulations. It looks like a nice car. Sorry to burst your bubble but the spoiler was never available as a factory installed option. Some folks like them on convertibles, some don't. As the owner of several 70 442 convertibles, I fall in the latter camp. However, it's your car, do with whatever you like.
Welcome. Not only was the wing not ever factory installed on convertibles (the angle of the pedestals is wrong for the convertible trunk lid), but the wing was dropped for the 1972 model year - no 1972 Oldsmobiles came with a wing from the factory. FYI, your headlight doors are on backwards.
any thoughts on the black stripes.... could you have bought it that way?
The wide side stripes were only used on factory W-cars but today every 70-72 has them (incorrectly) painted on. If you ordered the optional W-25 hood you did get the wide hood stripes as part of the package.
The stainless rocker trim says that the car isn't a real 442, so there would not have been any side stripes. A W-25 hood would still have come with the hood stripes, however. There is some confusion in the factory documentation about the availability of W-25 on convertibles. The SPECS booklet says N/A on convertible, except with W-30. The Inspectors Guide shows available on convertibles but doesn't say only with W-30.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You can certainly leave the 442 numerals on the car. In 1972 the only Cutlass Supreme that was offered in the 442 lineup (which was an appearance and handling package called W29, unless you ordered the W30) was the convertible. Like Joe P said, the original factory produced 72 442's never offered the deck wing. It was discontinued in May of 1971 before the 72 production started. Also, as noted - the rocker stainless molding was a delete item on the W29 and W30 models. BTW, if you kept the body side moldings (assuming they're OEM) there are some folks restoring CS models who would likely be interested in the full set. 72 was the only year the moldings went full length of the car.
Check your glovebox door. The emblem there should say Cutlass Supreme. If it says 442 it's bogus. The stone shield and grills look a little wonky especially on the passenger side. They should be vertical, not leaning back. And the hood looks like it needs some serious adjustment. Chances are it's a replica all fibreglass? I'd be surprised to see a correct OAI breather setup under the hood. Chances are almost 100% if it's a factory car it has the L34 350 (4bbl) engine. Do you know what factory it was built in?
Check your Cowl tag. IF your paint is the original color it should have code 56 A next to the PNT on the right side of the cowl tag.
You can certainly leave the 442 numerals on the car. In 1972 the only Cutlass Supreme that was offered in the 442 lineup (which was an appearance and handling package called W29, unless you ordered the W30) was the convertible. Like Joe P said, the original factory produced 72 442's never offered the deck wing. It was discontinued in May of 1971 before the 72 production started. Also, as noted - the rocker stainless molding was a delete item on the W29 and W30 models. BTW, if you kept the body side moldings (assuming they're OEM) there are some folks restoring CS models who would likely be interested in the full set. 72 was the only year the moldings went full length of the car.
Check your glovebox door. The emblem there should say Cutlass Supreme. If it says 442 it's bogus. The stone shield and grills look a little wonky especially on the passenger side. They should be vertical, not leaning back. And the hood looks like it needs some serious adjustment. Chances are it's a replica all fibreglass? I'd be surprised to see a correct OAI breather setup under the hood. Chances are almost 100% if it's a factory car it has the L34 350 (4bbl) engine. Do you know what factory it was built in?
Check your Cowl tag. IF your paint is the original color it should have code 56 A next to the PNT on the right side of the cowl tag.
Great insight everyone! thank you! I've learned so much. This car was built in Lansing. It was sold in Canada. I see you are in Canada. It's got the Z49 for Canadian Base Equipment Mod. It also came with an engine block heater. You are correct that the hood is not original. It has a 455 4BBL.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Dave,
SInce the car was sold in Canada you can get documentation for it from GM Historical Services. I got that for my 72 Cutlass S. I'm curious how you know it has the Z49. Do you have the original Bill of Sale? I know that Lansing would not have left a build sheet in any of their cars so hence my curiousity. Is the 455 original to the car? If it is, the VIN should start like this : 3J67U2M(XXXXXX). There are only 13 placeholders on the VIN, unlike the 17 of modern cars.
3 - Oldsmobile
J - Model: Cutlass Supreme
67 - Body Style: Convertible
U - Engine Code for 455 4bbl. (If it's a K it originally was a 350 4bbl)
2 - 1972 model year production
M - Lansing Production plant
(XXXXXX) Production sequence on final assembly line. All production plants started their sequence at 100001.
I'm curious to see what you have. Can you post a picture of the cowl tag?
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
BTW, here's a link you can explore if you're interested in obtaining the factory documentation about your car. GM Vintage Vehicle Services
George Zapora does a very nice job compiling information about the car. There are samples of the product in the page that link goes to. I'm very pleased with the product he did for my car.
You can certainly leave the 442 numerals on the car. In 1972 the only Cutlass Supreme that was offered in the 442 lineup (which was an appearance and handling package called W29, unless you ordered the W30) was the convertible. Like Joe P said, the original factory produced 72 442's never offered the deck wing. It was discontinued in May of 1971 before the 72 production started. Also, as noted - the rocker stainless molding was a delete item on the W29 and W30 models. BTW, if you kept the body side moldings (assuming they're OEM) there are some folks restoring CS models who would likely be interested in the full set. 72 was the only year the moldings went full length of the car.
Check your glovebox door. The emblem there should say Cutlass Supreme. If it says 442 it's bogus. The stone shield and grills look a little wonky especially on the passenger side. They should be vertical, not leaning back. And the hood looks like it needs some serious adjustment. Chances are it's a replica all fibreglass? I'd be surprised to see a correct OAI breather setup under the hood. Chances are almost 100% if it's a factory car it has the L34 350 (4bbl) engine. Do you know what factory it was built in?
Check your Cowl tag. IF your paint is the original color it should have code 56 A next to the PNT on the right side of the cowl tag.
Originally Posted by Allan R
Dave,
SInce the car was sold in Canada you can get documentation for it from GM Historical Services. I got that for my 72 Cutlass S. I'm curious how you know it has the Z49. Do you have the original Bill of Sale? I know that Lansing would not have left a build sheet in any of their cars so hence my curiousity. Is the 455 original to the car? If it is, the VIN should start like this : 3J67U2M(XXXXXX). There are only 13 placeholders on the VIN, unlike the 17 of modern cars.
3 - Oldsmobile
J - Model: Cutlass Supreme
67 - Body Style: Convertible
U - Engine Code for 455 4bbl. (If it's a K it originally was a 350 4bbl)
2 - 1972 model year production
M - Lansing Production plant
(XXXXXX) Production sequence on final assembly line. All production plants started their sequence at 100001.
I'm curious to see what you have. Can you post a picture of the cowl tag?
Thank you! I'm really trying to piece together the history of this vehicle and where it's been. 3J67U2MXXXX
We've found some information from Vintage Vehicle Services that the previous buyer bought. The car isn't with me this week but I will check the tag. I've attached what we got from the Vintage Vehicle Services and will check out the GM Historical Services.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Dave,
Congratulations!! You have what many of us would call the elusive and rare car of 1972. The U code production was very very limited and to see you have one makes me glad that another one has surfaced and survived the test of time.
I imagine you've done some research and know that the CS came with A51 Strato bucket seats as a standard feature. Nice to see it has the FE2 suspension. Now if it had been ordered with the W29 option you would have got the limited slip G80 carrier and upgrade to 3.23:1 gearing. The Axle ratio you have (2.73:1) is the standard axle for Cutlass Supreme with the 455 and M40 transmission.
Your documents from GM will tell you where it was delivered for sale. After that, any documentation such as bills of sale, protecto plate, owners manual, warranty info etc might have been removed/lost/destroyed by previous owners. None of the DMV offices in Canada will have records of title transfer on a car that old. The best you'll get is the history from what's known by the previous owner.
Dave,
Congratulations!! You have what many of us would call the elusive and rare car of 1972. The U code production was very very limited and to see you have one makes me glad that another one has surfaced and survived the test of time.
I imagine you've done some research and know that the CS came with A51 Strato bucket seats as a standard feature. Nice to see it has the FE2 suspension. Now if it had been ordered with the W29 option you would have got the limited slip G80 carrier and upgrade to 3.23:1 gearing. The Axle ratio you have (2.73:1) is the standard axle for Cutlass Supreme with the 455 and M40 transmission.
Your documents from GM will tell you where it was delivered for sale. After that, any documentation such as bills of sale, protecto plate, owners manual, warranty info etc might have been removed/lost/destroyed by previous owners. None of the DMV offices in Canada will have records of title transfer on a car that old. The best you'll get is the history from what's known by the previous owner.
Fantastic! My Dad and I felt we had a rare car but we rent 100% sure. Right now it's getting a paint job and should have it soon. Unfortunately, there is nothing else to car like warranty or owner's manual but we'll enjoy the history and learning from this forum. Thank you for all your help. This is invaluable. Very impressive how much you guys know.
The car is reaching completion. It's getting painted right now. We elected to paint it original, no stripes and keep the hood. I may put the stripes on the hood later. I'm shopping for new 442 badges. I see a lot of options online.
Do you all have any recommended vendors for the badges? Last question, is there a guide to the precise location of the badges? Thanks!
The reproduction badges are pretty much all the same, since it is a Cutlass I wouldn't worry about finding NOS badges just go to one of the usual vendors who will also sell a template for where to drill the holes for the emblems. Some people now-a-days actually grind down the mounting tabs of the emblems and then just glue the emblems on, this way they do not have to drill into the sheet mettle.
Originally Posted by Dave Van Dorselaer
Update and a question for the experts!
The car is reaching completion. It's getting painted right now. We elected to paint it original, no stripes and keep the hood. I may put the stripes on the hood later. I'm shopping for new 442 badges. I see a lot of options online.
Do you all have any recommended vendors for the badges? Last question, is there a guide to the precise location of the badges? Thanks!
Alan, I’m back! The car needed some body work. After we sandblasted the car, the Canadian history came out! What are your thoughts on painting? I searched all the painted threads. It’s been sandblasted and fixed up, no rust. How many coats do people put on? Clear Coat? I know that Clear-coat was not a thing in 1972. It will not be a show car. Basically looking to drive it on weekends, etc.
Welcome Dave, if you haven’t already you might to join the North Texas Olds Club, they’re a very active group and several members have restored 70-‘72 Abody Oldsmobiles.. Lookup 70post, costpenn, and a few others..these guys know these cars, are will be glad to answer your questions..
Rocket On!
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by Dave Van Dorselaer
After we sandblasted the car, the Canadian history came out! What are your thoughts on painting? I searched all the painted threads. It’s been sandblasted and fixed up, no rust. How many coats do people put on? Clear Coat? I know that Clear-coat was not a thing in 1972. It will not be a show car. Basically looking to drive it on weekends, etc.
BC/CC is pretty much the standard nowadays so you don't have any choice. It's more expensive than the old single stage enamels and lacquers that were used back then but the good thing is the clear acts as a better barrier to minor scratching. It's easily buffed to look great again.
I like that you're going with original color. As the body shop for their professional opinion about how many coats. Most shops will apply 2-3 coats. I'd only go with more if the car is going to be wet sanded and polished to show car quality (more $$$$$$$$$) but I remember you're not really looking to go that route. Also remember that the more CC that goes on the car, the harder it will be to reinstall some of the bright work on the deck lid or cowl ridge at the back of the hood. Speaking of the hood, have the body shop tweak the way it sits so the rear isn't sitting up so high. They can also adjust the hood bumpers at the front to bring it up a bit. If they don't know how to adjust the hood height, I would be worried about the rest of their work.
Stripes? My opinion is that the W30 stripe package looks really awesome on that car, even though it's technically wrong. The W29 stripe package is much more subdued. Both of them are in the 72 Cutlass Assembly manual. The stripes also go on the deck lid and quarter extensions at the back.
Dave,
Is this an original 56 code Sunfire Yellow car? Don't know why I'm drawn to the Saffron/Sunfire yellow....even on a Velle or a Vette.
This one loaded down nicely. Makes one wonder why the W29 & M20 option boxes didn't get checked?
Really dig the Cragar SS wheels. I do like the PO2s from 72 but the SS3 and Cragars win.
Try the hood without the stripes. You can always add them. Buy the vinyl decals and lay them on the hood for contrast to see if you like it. White and Black. Mock it up with the decals before the clear goes on. Then you can paint them on. Or Stick em on after the clear. I've seen a few 70-72s without the wide hood panel stripes. It kind of stealths the W25 hood. I think it looks great like that on a non W30 car, light or dark colors.
Consider the thin pinstripes around the outside edges of the hood scoops. Also, consider the 442 thin stripe option on the body.
White stripes look good on a yellow car with a white gut and top... but black doesn't suk either. The top kind of dictates the body stripe color IMO I had a saffron 68 442 vert with a pearl gut, black top, and thin black body stripes just under the stainless moldings. It looked cool. Google Images for a look.
As far as paint you are worrying us if you are asking that kind of question...unless you're a first-timer applying the paint? A seasoned painter would know what's needed. There are many things to consider from the correct primer, correct and time-consuming prep, then the paint. Compatible chemicals are most important as well. If the prep sucks so will the paint. Block sand your *** off. When you think it's done block it again. Then at last...the Paint. I have seen 2-3 coats to 10+ coats of base. Most of it gets blocked off. 2, 3, 4 coats of clear. It all depends on the process and how long your willing to wait for each coat to off-gas(cure) how many wet sand setps your willing to take and how "wet" you want the car to look. Are you shooting for a factory look or a super show look?
Fusick, Year One, OPGI are the three places I rely on for restoration parts. This sites classified section for used restorable parts.
PICTURES! we are picture junkies! Hopefully, you've taken pictures of the body & paint process. Always cool to see before & after shots.
Steve
Welcome Dave, if you haven’t already you might to join the North Texas Olds Club, they’re a very active group and several members have restored 70-‘72 Abody Oldsmobiles.. Lookup 70post, costpenn, and a few others..these guys know these cars, are will be glad to answer your questions..
Rocket On!
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Dave,
I can mention you're looking for a membership. I know the treasurer of the NTOC and I'm sure he could hook you up. He's on this site as redoldsman and his name is Glenn Hargove. Here's a direct link to his CO private messaging : https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o=newpm&u=3025
Dave,
I can mention you're looking for a membership. I know the treasurer of the NTOC and I'm sure he could hook you up. He's on this site as redoldsman and his name is Glenn Hargove. Here's a direct link to his CO private messaging : https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o=newpm&u=3025
Dave,
Is this an original 56 code Sunfire Yellow car? Don't know why I'm drawn to the Saffron/Sunfire yellow....even on a Velle or a Vette.
This one loaded down nicely. Makes one wonder why the W29 & M20 option boxes didn't get checked?
Really dig the Cragar SS wheels. I do like the PO2s from 72 but the SS3 and Cragars win.
Try the hood without the stripes. You can always add them. Buy the vinyl decals and lay them on the hood for contrast to see if you like it. White and Black. Mock it up with the decals before the clear goes on. Then you can paint them on. Or Stick em on after the clear. I've seen a few 70-72s without the wide hood panel stripes. It kind of stealths the W25 hood. I think it looks great like that on a non W30 car, light or dark colors.
Consider the thin pinstripes around the outside edges of the hood scoops. Also, consider the 442 thin stripe option on the body.
White stripes look good on a yellow car with a white gut and top... but black doesn't suk either. The top kind of dictates the body stripe color IMO I had a saffron 68 442 vert with a pearl gut, black top, and thin black body stripes just under the stainless moldings. It looked cool. Google Images for a look.
As far as paint you are worrying us if you are asking that kind of question...unless you're a first-timer applying the paint? A seasoned painter would know what's needed. There are many things to consider from the correct primer, correct and time-consuming prep, then the paint. Compatible chemicals are most important as well. If the prep sucks so will the paint. Block sand your *** off. When you think it's done block it again. Then at last...the Paint. I have seen 2-3 coats to 10+ coats of base. Most of it gets blocked off. 2, 3, 4 coats of clear. It all depends on the process and how long your willing to wait for each coat to off-gas(cure) how many wet sand setps your willing to take and how "wet" you want the car to look. Are you shooting for a factory look or a super show look?
Fusick, Year One, OPGI are the three places I rely on for restoration parts. This sites classified section for used restorable parts.
PICTURES! we are picture junkies! Hopefully, you've taken pictures of the body & paint process. Always cool to see before & after shots.
Steve
Posted some pictures. The last one is where it is at now. Some of them aren't in order. Thank you! Great Advice.
It is an original 56 code Sunfire. We wondered the same thing about the W29 and M20 boxes.
I will not be painting myself! Don't be worried I am a first timer but know what I don't know and I know I wont be painting! Just trying to learn from you guys and make sure I don't get hosed up on what they are doing on the paint.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Wow! That's a serious teardown. Didn't realize the rust was so bad; still have a long way to go by the looks of things. Good work, and keep it up! Be careful with that jack and block of wood lift, it looks pretty sketchy. Don't get hurt
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Looks good - Where is the front clip? As you probably know now from fitting the quarter panels, the door gaps on these cars isn't the same as new car standards. Looking forward to the after pictures. Are you planning to keep the SSIII wheels? IMO they look great on these cars especially when they've been cleaned and painted.
December 8th, 2018, 12:53 PM
