Everyone knonws the 70 W30 engine specs are much more performance driven than the 71 W30. Any thoughts on if rebuilding the 71, any downsides to the new build matching the more powerful 70. It’s a 4 speed and the brakes aren’t power assested so the 70 cam should be a non issue I think. Looking for it to run as nice as it looks. Have at it!

 

What octane do you want to use(and have available on an easy basis)

 

There are better cams today than the 328/328 W-30 cam. The performance difference isn't as great as you might think. The 70 W-30 was rated at 370 HP gross (admittedly, that's likely conservative for the manual trans version). The 71 W-30 was rated at 340 HP gross (300 HP net).

 

92 octane all over Texas and as far as HP you are probably more right than you know Joe. If I can do just a few things to the engine... keeping any parts I remove as I read Joes’ answer on a thread regarding the open face alternator. See, you old guys are so great for a new Olds guy, PLEASE, recommend away. As well as a trusted machine shop in Austin. Thanks.

 

If you are doing a complete rebuild, get better pistons to bump it above the factory 8-ish:1 compression ratio and a camshaft to match the compression and rear gears. Forget factory spec parts and use things from this century.

 

See, you old guys are so great for a new Olds guy. Nice

 

You didn't mention rear end ratio or headers. The 328/328 cam is best with open headers and maybe not the best cam for the street. Everyone has their favorite cam. I kinda like the 308/308 cam, get one from Lunati or something comparable. Lunati will also "tuftride" the cam for a fee. Or you can try one of the multitude of "new technology" cams. You'll want an adjustable valvetrain (rocker arms). The Lunati lifters with internal snap rings (not the hair pin retainers) is something worth a thought. Cutlassefi might be good recommend something.
.......Just my two cents worth.

 

The hope would be to go pistons,cam, headers, carb, distributor, and headers. I don’t know the rear end but I assume it’s what was standard in a W30 4speed. 10:1 or so as to not easlily detonate. There you have it. I hoped you would like the play on words! Thanks, and don’t forget the machine shop if anyone can help. All the best. And I liked the ....This century comment, since it sometimes easy to forget the advances this century.

 

71 W30 motor built by Mark Remmel: H heads, w30 intake, stock Qjet and WZ manifolds. 475+ hp w/ tuning, idles like stock.

 

Now that’s what I need to here .

 

I was gona say 450-500 is somewhat easily achievable. If its a street car pay attention to where the max torque curve is, or where you want it. You want it down low on a street car. The cam and gearing comes into play here.
Run as high of a compression ratio as you can get away with, with the combination of parts.

If its not a daily driver don't be afraid to add some octane boost at each fill and live with more compression. More squeeze = More HP/Torque. But you really need to do the homework.

Pay attention to induction and exhaust. The easier the engine intakes and exhausts, will net an increased efficiency which equals more power. EG: Port work, intake to head match porting and free-flowing exhaust etc...the details. Aluminum heads will allow a slightly higher compression ratio and a more aggressive spark curve.
Then pay attention to the details such as proper carb size and tune, degree-ing the cam and really paying attention to the valve train.

I have a C-headed 11:1 engine that's properly tunned and does need octane boost or a mix with Sunoco race gas to harness all of what it has to offer. BUT it will run on 92-93-94 which is still available in my area (backing off the timing a bit with 92). Its been apart once and the pistons show zero detonation damage.

Purchase Bill Trovatos (BTR Performance) book on Hi Perf Olds engine tricks. He has been making big HP on pump gas for many years.

 

Thanks to all for this great information! It’s a valuable car, one of 36 but NOT a trailer queen. So I want to keep its value while putting some quevos on it. Radical but not to...fast but not to... and alway reliable. So.... everyone’s view on 10:1, Lunati 308/308, 3:73 rear end, a great distributor and carb with good fitting headers. Now is the time to chime in on who to build since I’m in Austin Texas, I can even go to Dallas or Houston if we can’t get a great machine shop here. Please help if you can. All the best!

 

The best thing you could do is connect with a knowledgeable Oldsmobile engine builder like Mark Remmel who’s been through many combinations and knows what will work and what won’t. He can give you the right advise and build a motor for your needs. Too many people select a cam out of a catalog with little knowledge and think they will be successful. Your build should be tailored around your car’s gearing, transmission, weight and a number of other considerations.

 

Thanks guys. I’m trying to find a knowledgeable guy like Mike.. in central Texas so as for now I’m still looking.

 

I asked the same question three years back now and “costpenn” (Joe), steered me to the shop below for cylinder head refresh. They did a great job for me; I’m looking at some more machine work this winter with them. Their shop is a few blocks from UT Southwestern Hospital in central Dallas. If you time the traffic right it’s not too bad. Give them a call and see if they will meet your needs.

“Tinker's Machine in Dallas for our Olds engine rebuilding needs. They are not a lot to look at, but Charles, the owner, knows "old iron" pretty well for stock engine rebuilds, and consequently does not make a lot of errors people unfamiliar with these engine types typically make. Their phone # (214) 688-1067 - tell Charles Joe from Enginetech sent you.“

 

Thanks but you wouldn’t believe it if I told you. On line says permanently closed! My feelers are still out. Mark

 

There is a Tinkers in Yantis now.. I wonder if he just moved?