ok, apparently what I was thinking is wrong.
I guess no way to prove it is or isn't without legit paperwork?

 

Are all pistons "A" stamp? Look on the block deck surface and see if the D bore ID stamp is still visible. If engine has been rebuilt and deck surface trued, probably not. D stamp on all bores would offer proof of original W30 block.

I also vote sell these heads and use proceeds to build your engine. Edelbrocks or even a well-prepped set of big valve C's or E's will do the job.

 

Where would this "D" stamp be located? I could not make out any type of marking on the block surface.

 

You may have to scrape or scotchbrite that head gasket residue off to find it. IIRC the bore stamp was on the deck surface between piston bore and lifter valley.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I have learned a lot of useful information from many Olds expert on this forum. All you guys are very helpful. This car has a lot of sentimental value to me. It was my first car and a cool car at that. I worked and modified it on a high school budget. Being able to get the car back is priceless. How many people wish they still have their original muscle car? The car is a time capsule from my teenage years. I replaced the bench seats with a set of Vega bucket seats. It still has the Pontiac dual gate and console. It is in no way original but I can say I built it my way and everything has a story behind it. Financially it make sense to sell the heads and use it to fund the restoration and I thank all of the members that recommended that to look out for my best interest. But that 455ci was passed through 3 of my good friends and winds up in my car. I know the new aluminum heads are probably better in every way but then the story behind the motor will not be as meaningful. I did not take on this project to sell the car or try to make it concourse but every time I start it, it reminds me of the good old days when life is so much simpler. How many people can say they own a 1969 442 with a F head 455ci out of a 1970 W-30? We make our cars unique that is why we don't own a Chevelle.

 

Bravo!

 

Perfect! For your own sake of knowing, you need to check the distributor, and carburetor numbers also. The original W-30 distributors sell for over $2K and the carburetors go even higher. I say this because if you decide to change distributors or you have extra parts with the car, you want to be sure you save these parts.

 

Unfortunately it looks like that ship has sailed.

 

Good info in this thread, did not know they used A pistons in D bores. Have a question, do either of the F heads have a stamping on the end of the head? Like (009-****). As you can see by the reply's, there's always a flurry of info when a W car is brought up, do as you please with the parts, there yours.

 

well said, great info on this post.I learned a lot..