Heyo, had this for over 30 years, I thought the kids would be interested in it when they grew up, so I kept it around and drove it on and off. They are not interested in cars at all. It currently has 455 motor rebuilt about 12 years ago, I am pretty sure it also has the HO heads. (less than a thousand miles on it since the rebuild, it runs decent, 350 turbo trans. It needs a bigger radiator, I cored out the current 4 core, still overheats a bit, it is running, I drive it down to the store everynow and then, it is licensed, insured, etc. but overheats (the water never boils, gauge just states it is over heating), New tires front and back, it had some rust on it, years ago in the quarters, we pop-revit and bondo'd it 30 years ago, no access to a welder at the time, (small portion where they all rust), etc. I was going to throw a Muncie in it, I have the bell housing, the clutch and file wheel, new in the box, etc. We notched the headers, etc. for te Zbar. Also, I put on disc brakes about 10 years ago, redid the front seats about the same time, and also bought a new Edelbrock intake for it this year and installed it. new windshield washer and pump. Just wondering what a fair price would be for something like this. it does have the tic-toc tach on it, bucket seat configuration from the factory but no console, it was an original 350 car. The rear end is nothing special. I figure I will get the obligatory, "it's worth whatever you get for it" and all those saying, and that is correct, However, looking for an actual guesstimate if that makes sense. it lived in Arizona and California its whole life so, pretty rust-free as far as that goes. (I have the glove box out, I am fixing it, also, have the driver interior door panel, I am replacing the latch) (also have all the original AC equipment and brackets, etc) (also had the insurance company replace the windshield, so no cracks or chips as of yet, knock on wood)

 

This is just an opinion, and there are plenty around.

What I would consider:

1. The core support is bent in, probably the first casualty to a minor 2 MPH "tap" on the front bumper. It's pretty hard to pound it out, depending on severity, but it's common with these. You can see the 'tooth' on the hood is bent in where the bumper pushed it in. That leads to...
2. Body work. Probably your run of the mill parking lot rash, not seeing much rust, but I'd like to gander at the trunk drop-offs and behind the front wheels on the fender. Even though you did some work on the common rust spots it's important for a buyer to know what they are getting. When you go for paint quotes, they will try to give you a heart attack. Shop it around with guys you know who've had paint done and see what they got charged and how long it took. My poor uncle took the lowest bidder 3 years ago for his 63 Impala and it's still in the shop.
3. HO heads may be worth selling separately--depending on which year/casting we are talking about.
4. Best of luck with your sale--it looks like a good project for someone. Like my Gramps said, "They'll take all your time and all your money". Not sure if he was talking kids or cars, but it works both ways.
5. I'd ask $10k and see if you get any bites.

 

If I'm a potential buyer, this would be my biggest concern. I would much rather see the rust damage, warts and all, than have to deal with amateur rust repairs of unknown quality. The fact that it's lasted this long speaks well of your craftsmanship, but I'm pretty confident a serious buyer will be able to suss it out, especially if he has a Spot-Rot gauge. And you know what they say about rust: where there's some, there's usually more where that came from.

That said, Bryan (above) offers some pretty solid advice. I'll go with his number. You can always lower the price if you need to, but it's a lot messier to raise it if you discover you offered the car too low.

 

Lets see some money shots.
If its So Cal/Phoenix dry its worth a bit more to a guy that wants a solid base to restore/rod.
You desert/So Cal guys have no idea how important the lack of rot is.
Or how a rot belt car disintegrates after 50 years of improper storage and exposure to a damp salty climate.

What are H/O heads. Do you mean big block C or D heads?

Money shots = more money.
Lower door seams
Front fender dog legs
Rear quarter drop offs from inside & under the car
Wheel wells in the trunk and inside the outer wells (the seams)
Rockers from looking under the car, the seams
Front and rear dash metal
Trunk lid lip lower seam
Trunk floor
Floor pans and braces
Frame

Get it up on a lift and get some money shots.
Then put it on Hemming's with a reserve of 8-9-10K and see what it does. You might get more...with honest money shots and descriptions of what is good and bad about it.

 

this is great advice, thanks I will consider this for sure! Happy New Year.

 

Thank you, again, great advice, I will take it. and you are correct, I forgot there is some bondo on the fenders, again, from decades ago.

 

I will do those things for sure! thanks again, this is very helpful