I just ordered my CSM but need some torque spec info for the front end. Can anyone help thanks!

 

72_408...Same as the hardtops n coupes...lol
You pose too broad of a question as there are many parts on a "front end" which require torque. Dog house sheet metal or chassis suspension?
Get more specific. Many of us have these specs in our heads or in our collection of service manuals.
Don't rule out the Googler...

 

Or just goodntite line up the nut with the hole and slip in the cotter pin. I never use a torque wrench on that stuff.

 

I was looking for control arm torque specs front and rear. I think it’s 80ft lbs. oh and the torque spec on the pinion nut of a TH350. Thanks everyone

 

http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/torquespecs.htm

"oh and the torque spec on the pinion nut of a TH350"...you mean the rear end not the trans? New crush sleeve or just a pinion seal replacement?

 

Pinion seal replacement

 

No torque spec perse.
Two ways to do this.
The realign method:
Mark the yoke, the pinion end, and the nut.
Remove.
Inspect the yoke seal surface for grooves. If you can catch a fingernail in a groove replace it or speedy sleeve it. If you don't know how to speedy sleeve just replace it.
Pack the rear of the new seal with regular grease to keep the spring in place when you slip the yoke back on the pinion.
Clean housing and seal, coat lightly with RTV drive seal in.
Assemble everything using blue 242 loctite on the threads. Be sure to put a little diff oil on the yoke so its not dry on the seal surface.
Tighten the nut up to the point where you realign the marks you made earlier.
Give the nut another few ~2-3* degrees past that. You should not observe any up down deflection on the pinion bearings when you are finished

By the book method:
Requires a new crush sleeve seal and nut.
Draw in the crush sleeve until a specific lb/in drag is obtained on the pinion. Then you should check gear pattern and lash. If it's off you start over with another crush sleeve
These rears are a PITA if you don't have experience and tools.
The only problem with the book method(at least with me) is MAWs...Then I blow the rear end apart and do all bearings races seals etc...Thats just me. Many have reported success with the alignment method including me. I've done it both ways.

Monzas (and others) on this site is a seasoned Corporate and O type rear end wrench. Im sure he and others will pipe up and add or subtract to this.

 

For pinion seal replacement mark the nut and the pinion shaft in a place it won't come of while you remove the nut. Count how many threads are sticking out of the nut (I take a picture with camera phone) and how many turns it takes to get the nut off. Use the redi sleave whether there is a grove or not, its kind of like insurance and they are cheap. Pull the old seal, install new and reassemble using the amount of turns and the picture to line up the marks, then give it 1/16th turn more if possible. Note the nut is very tight so have the car jacked up high enough to give you leverage.