springbryan

Working on the new project while driving on last friday the right wheel bearing went out. can somebody help me come up part numbers bearings and seals.
i find no numbers on my bearing pieces at all.

oldcutlass

Go to the parts store and just ask for a set of front wheel bearings and a seal for your year model car. I like Timken brand bearings. Be sure to change the races.

edzolz

And do both sides. If one is bad, the other is too.

springbryan

I mess up it is rear wheel bearings sorry

joe_padavano

RockAuto, NAPA, etc. These are available everywhere.

springbryan

while I was doing the rear wheel bearings. I thought I would change the diff oil. Can anybody id the diff. I can't find a gasket. it is a perfect circle with 12 bolt evenly spaced. I have one from all the box parts stores and none of them are right. any ideas

lemoldsnut

Type O 12 bolt Olds rearend. If you get the code off the right axle tube i can do even better. It will be between the right axle tube and the shock mount area and typically is two letters and is upside down.

Larry

Magna86

Just use a black RTV to make a gasket to seal the differential cover. First try and remove the fill plug on the right side of differential they sometimes are stripped or very difficult to remove. Don't forget posi additive when you buy gear oil if car has a posi. I'd replace both sides of wheel bearings/seals and double check the front are good too. You will need to take the axles to a shop to have the bearing pressed on and off the axles if you don't have a press.

Koda

I prefer a gasket for rear ends with gasket goop on the cover side.

springbryan

Thanks for info on diff. I just got back from pricing paint for the car two quotes of 20,000 and i am be told it is a very solid car with very little rust I had no clue paint was so expensive

bryan

joe_padavano

That's high but not insane for a quality paint job. The question is, what exactly are you asking the shop to do? If you are simply handing them a car and asking them to do all the work (removing trim, removing interior parts, etc), that's a lot of hourly labor. If all you want is a scuff and shoot, go to Maaco. Are you asking them to strip the car to bare metal? Is there any body work involved? Are they pulling out the glass and weatherstripping? Are they shooing the inside of the trunk and jambs?

There are too many variables to make an informed decision on that price from what you've told us so far. Bottom line is that if you pull all the chrome and if the car doesn't need major body work, I'd expect around $10K for a quality BC/CC paint job over factory paint in good condition. Keep in mind that a quality paint job is about 90% labor, and it costs me about $1000 - $2000 for best quality materials.

springbryan

Yes that price was drive in drive out complete. He did say the less he had to take apart the the less the cost. Some body work needed mostly dents one hole in trunk where the window leaked. I live northern Il not many restoration shops that I know of. So I need to get busy and take it apart I didn't ask if they were stripping to bare metal lots of questions at this point. I think it has one re paint already. Not sure what to do at this point

oldcutlass

Imho, I think spending $20k for a paint job on a 67 Cutlass is ludicrous. Sorry if I'm being blunt.

lemoldsnut

Joe is right ( imagine that) If you pull the bumpers, pull the trim, and get the car as close as possible to have it ready to just do the body work and get it painted you will save a huge amount of money.

$8-10 k for a decent paint job is not out of line.

That isn't talking about body work.

I am sure I have over $12k in all the body work and paint on mine. And yes I pulled everything and had the car prepared for them to just do the finish work. I pulled the interior, all trim, bumpers and had roller tires on it so not to worry about overspray. I probably have another 100 hours in trim polishing and preparation as well as had the bumpers redone that was about $1500 then when they came back I had the brackets sand blasted and painted and used all new hardware. all new fasteners on the trim. It takes lots of money very quickly.

joe_padavano

Except that it isn't just paint. It's disassembly, sand or strip the old paint (primarily the unknown repaint material), fix the rust, budget for replacements for the clips and such that break during disassembly, budget for the unknowns in rust repair (FYI, the window "leak" is most likely from pinchweld rust, which will also have to be replaced), and finally paint and polish the car. Interestingly, Car Craft just published an on-line article about this very topic. Bottom line: 400 hours of labor, at $50/hr, comes to about $20K. You can pay for a quality job, pay less for a crappy job, or do the work yourself.

oldcutlass

I was lucky with my rear window, it has the channel drains. I would recommend installing something similar if yours does not have any. I understand the labor involved as I removed and reinstalled all my trim, bumpers, etc. Its probably around 30 hours labor and I replaced only 3 clips found local. I just can't see spending that much money on painting something I'm going drive.

droldsmorland

20K! Yes maybe for a Chip Foose museum quality stock paint job. For future ref the rear axle wheel bearings are available through BDI Inc. Same for the seals. Ask for USA made hardware unless you want failure in under 5K miles. Same for the front or any other bearing. Drive train direct, National Drive train or a well connected higher quality non-big box house-of-china parts house will be able to help out with the gasket. Just be sure which axle you have. Most not in the know will call it a 8.2" when it could be 8.5 "O" or even a Chevy 12 bolt.
Check out the attachment from Oldsmobility