1967 Oldsmobile 98 steering column play
August 20th, 2023, 06:26 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
1967 Oldsmobile 98 steering column play
I have a 1967 Oldsmobile 98. I have a little play in my steering when I’m driving. I have replaced the gearbox, center link, ball joints, & stabilizer links. I feel like the play is coming from up under my steering wheel. Have anyone had any problems like mine that I’m having to replace something in the steering column to compensate for play in the steering? I also adjusted my gearbox with no success. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
August 20th, 2023, 07:50 PM
#3
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 4,929
I'll assume it's power steering in a 98.
Shouldnt mess with the worm gear preload on a newly rebuilt box.
Did you look at/replace the rag joint?
A trick I've learned is to feel the slop in each joint...Engine on, helper rocking the wheel back n forth while Im under the car holding each connection point (weight on the suspension) You can physically feel and see the slop.
Today new doesn't mean good.
I like bw's idea of isolating the shaft with vice grips.
Shouldnt mess with the worm gear preload on a newly rebuilt box.
Did you look at/replace the rag joint?
A trick I've learned is to feel the slop in each joint...Engine on, helper rocking the wheel back n forth while Im under the car holding each connection point (weight on the suspension) You can physically feel and see the slop.
Today new doesn't mean good.
I like bw's idea of isolating the shaft with vice grips.
August 20th, 2023, 09:30 PM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,784
How much play are we talking about? There is going to be some play in the steering on a reciprocating ball system. If the steering is not centered when the alignment is performed there will be excess play, in other words the same amount of turns left and right.
August 20th, 2023, 10:31 PM
#5
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,705
The system as designed in the early 60’s had some play built in since road isolation was part of the overall experience. These days play & road isolation (the opposite of road feel) are features to be avoided. This is solidly in the realm of personal choice, but frankly, I agree with you. Precise steering in these old cars is great.
Play & looseness can be minimized. I’ve done it on 2 ‘66 big cars. The short answer is to get a steering box that’s 2.5 turns lock-to-lock and a differently pressured PS pump outlet valve. I had my steering boxes and PS pumps redone by Lee Manufacturing near LA years ago. Lee is gone, but they sold out to a successor organization that’s doing the same modifications.
I can’t remember whether Lee raised or lowered the pump output pressure to improve road feel. Best to give them a call. Get in touch with them or a similar company near you for rebuilding/PS pump pressure options.
If you’re not into full replacement, you can play with the “Overcenter adjustment” which may improve the feel of your car with just a few hand tools. See your Chassis Service Manual for instructions. Also be sure your idler arm, centerlink, tie rods and ball joints are in good shape to minimize slop in the the system.
Steering and brakes are 2 of the upgrades in these cars I’ve enjoyed most. I recommend them.
Chris
Play & looseness can be minimized. I’ve done it on 2 ‘66 big cars. The short answer is to get a steering box that’s 2.5 turns lock-to-lock and a differently pressured PS pump outlet valve. I had my steering boxes and PS pumps redone by Lee Manufacturing near LA years ago. Lee is gone, but they sold out to a successor organization that’s doing the same modifications.
I can’t remember whether Lee raised or lowered the pump output pressure to improve road feel. Best to give them a call. Get in touch with them or a similar company near you for rebuilding/PS pump pressure options.
If you’re not into full replacement, you can play with the “Overcenter adjustment” which may improve the feel of your car with just a few hand tools. See your Chassis Service Manual for instructions. Also be sure your idler arm, centerlink, tie rods and ball joints are in good shape to minimize slop in the the system.
Steering and brakes are 2 of the upgrades in these cars I’ve enjoyed most. I recommend them.
Chris
August 21st, 2023, 03:16 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
I'll assume it's power steering in a 98.
Shouldnt mess with the worm gear preload on a newly rebuilt box.
Did you look at/replace the rag joint?
A trick I've learned is to feel the slop in each joint...Engine on, helper rocking the wheel back n forth while Im under the car holding each connection point (weight on the suspension) You can physically feel and see the slop.
Today new doesn't mean good.
I like bw's idea of isolating the shaft with vice grips.
Shouldnt mess with the worm gear preload on a newly rebuilt box.
Did you look at/replace the rag joint?
A trick I've learned is to feel the slop in each joint...Engine on, helper rocking the wheel back n forth while Im under the car holding each connection point (weight on the suspension) You can physically feel and see the slop.
Today new doesn't mean good.
I like bw's idea of isolating the shaft with vice grips.
August 21st, 2023, 03:32 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
if I would take a guess. I have about a 1/2 inch to 1 inch of play. I believe the play may be coming from the steering column right below the steering wheel. I can hear something in there when I move the wheel back & forth. Not sure what is in the column right below the steering wheel. I do have a tilt & telescoping steering wheel.
August 21st, 2023, 03:33 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
I'll assume it's power steering in a 98.
Shouldnt mess with the worm gear preload on a newly rebuilt box.
Did you look at/replace the rag joint?
A trick I've learned is to feel the slop in each joint...Engine on, helper rocking the wheel back n forth while Im under the car holding each connection point (weight on the suspension) You can physically feel and see the slop.
Today new doesn't mean good.
I like bw's idea of isolating the shaft with vice grips.
Shouldnt mess with the worm gear preload on a newly rebuilt box.
Did you look at/replace the rag joint?
A trick I've learned is to feel the slop in each joint...Engine on, helper rocking the wheel back n forth while Im under the car holding each connection point (weight on the suspension) You can physically feel and see the slop.
Today new doesn't mean good.
I like bw's idea of isolating the shaft with vice grips.
August 21st, 2023, 03:51 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
The system as designed in the early 60’s had some play built in since road isolation was part of the overall experience. These days play & road isolation (the opposite of road feel) are features to be avoided. This is solidly in the realm of personal choice, but frankly, I agree with you. Precise steering in these old cars is great.
Play & looseness can be minimized. I’ve done it on 2 ‘66 big cars. The short answer is to get a steering box that’s 2.5 turns lock-to-lock and a differently pressured PS pump outlet valve. I had my steering boxes and PS pumps redone by Lee Manufacturing near LA years ago. Lee is gone, but they sold out to a successor organization that’s doing the same modifications.
I can’t remember whether Lee raised or lowered the pump output pressure to improve road feel. Best to give them a call. Get in touch with them or a similar company near you for rebuilding/PS pump pressure options.
If you’re not into full replacement, you can play with the “Overcenter adjustment” which may improve the feel of your car with just a few hand tools. See your Chassis Service Manual for instructions. Also be sure your idler arm, centerlink, tie rods and ball joints are in good shape to minimize slop in the the system.
Steering and brakes are 2 of the upgrades in these cars I’ve enjoyed most. I recommend them.
Chris
Play & looseness can be minimized. I’ve done it on 2 ‘66 big cars. The short answer is to get a steering box that’s 2.5 turns lock-to-lock and a differently pressured PS pump outlet valve. I had my steering boxes and PS pumps redone by Lee Manufacturing near LA years ago. Lee is gone, but they sold out to a successor organization that’s doing the same modifications.
I can’t remember whether Lee raised or lowered the pump output pressure to improve road feel. Best to give them a call. Get in touch with them or a similar company near you for rebuilding/PS pump pressure options.
If you’re not into full replacement, you can play with the “Overcenter adjustment” which may improve the feel of your car with just a few hand tools. See your Chassis Service Manual for instructions. Also be sure your idler arm, centerlink, tie rods and ball joints are in good shape to minimize slop in the the system.
Steering and brakes are 2 of the upgrades in these cars I’ve enjoyed most. I recommend them.
Chris
In the front suspension. I feel & can hear play in the steering column underneath the steering wheel.
August 21st, 2023, 04:07 AM
#10
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,705
I’m going off what I know about 66’s, just to put it out there. I know less about ‘67’s, but Olds made big changes (mostly safety related) to the dash of the big cars in ‘67.
If you can hear something that doesn’t sound right in the column and you’ve re-done all the moveable parts it connects to, let’s focus on the column.
The rag joint is a rubber/metal/fabric flexible joint that connects the steering column to the steering box on the driver’s side of your engine compartment. It looks like a black rubber disc with metal pins that locate the clock position of the column to the clock position of the steering linkage. The clocking, along with splines on the steering box and column are what allows you to set the wheel in the “straight” position when the steering linkage has the wheels going exactly straight.
The first question is what column you have - is it fixed, does it tilt, or is it a tilt & telescoping column? Each of these designs were slightly different so the bearings inside the column may be different. As far as I know the main source of a different bearing, or set of bearings is a replacement (probably used) column. Someone here may know of a rebuilding service, but I don’t know any.
If I heard weird noises and play in my column, I’d start scanning eBay to find a good used one - either to replace completely, or for parts to put in mine.
To understand the column better, you’re well advised to find an official Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from 1967. It contains removal and service procedures from the factory. There’s no better source than the old Olds book for things like exploded parts diagrams that will show you what bearings or other parts might be making noise.
Chris
If you can hear something that doesn’t sound right in the column and you’ve re-done all the moveable parts it connects to, let’s focus on the column.
The rag joint is a rubber/metal/fabric flexible joint that connects the steering column to the steering box on the driver’s side of your engine compartment. It looks like a black rubber disc with metal pins that locate the clock position of the column to the clock position of the steering linkage. The clocking, along with splines on the steering box and column are what allows you to set the wheel in the “straight” position when the steering linkage has the wheels going exactly straight.
The first question is what column you have - is it fixed, does it tilt, or is it a tilt & telescoping column? Each of these designs were slightly different so the bearings inside the column may be different. As far as I know the main source of a different bearing, or set of bearings is a replacement (probably used) column. Someone here may know of a rebuilding service, but I don’t know any.
If I heard weird noises and play in my column, I’d start scanning eBay to find a good used one - either to replace completely, or for parts to put in mine.
To understand the column better, you’re well advised to find an official Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from 1967. It contains removal and service procedures from the factory. There’s no better source than the old Olds book for things like exploded parts diagrams that will show you what bearings or other parts might be making noise.
Chris
August 21st, 2023, 05:12 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 31
The system as designed in the early 60’s had some play built in since road isolation was part of the overall experience. These days play & road isolation (the opposite of road feel) are features to be avoided. This is solidly in the realm of personal choice, but frankly, I agree with you. Precise steering in these old cars is great.
Play & looseness can be minimized. I’ve done it on 2 ‘66 big cars. The short answer is to get a steering box that’s 2.5 turns lock-to-lock and a differently pressured PS pump outlet valve. I had my steering boxes and PS pumps redone by Lee Manufacturing near LA years ago. Lee is gone, but they sold out to a successor organization that’s doing the same modifications.
I can’t remember whether Lee raised or lowered the pump output pressure to improve road feel. Best to give them a call. Get in touch with them or a similar company near you for rebuilding/PS pump pressure options.
If you’re not into full replacement, you can play with the “Overcenter adjustment” which may improve the feel of your car with just a few hand tools. See your Chassis Service Manual for instructions. Also be sure your idler arm, centerlink, tie rods and ball joints are in good shape to minimize slop in the the system.
Steering and brakes are 2 of the upgrades in these cars I’ve enjoyed most. I recommend them.
Chris
Play & looseness can be minimized. I’ve done it on 2 ‘66 big cars. The short answer is to get a steering box that’s 2.5 turns lock-to-lock and a differently pressured PS pump outlet valve. I had my steering boxes and PS pumps redone by Lee Manufacturing near LA years ago. Lee is gone, but they sold out to a successor organization that’s doing the same modifications.
I can’t remember whether Lee raised or lowered the pump output pressure to improve road feel. Best to give them a call. Get in touch with them or a similar company near you for rebuilding/PS pump pressure options.
If you’re not into full replacement, you can play with the “Overcenter adjustment” which may improve the feel of your car with just a few hand tools. See your Chassis Service Manual for instructions. Also be sure your idler arm, centerlink, tie rods and ball joints are in good shape to minimize slop in the the system.
Steering and brakes are 2 of the upgrades in these cars I’ve enjoyed most. I recommend them.
Chris
I’m going off what I know about 66’s, just to put it out there. I know less about ‘67’s, but Olds made big changes (mostly safety related) to the dash of the big cars in ‘67.
If you can hear something that doesn’t sound right in the column and you’ve re-done all the moveable parts it connects to, let’s focus on the column.
The rag joint is a rubber/metal/fabric flexible joint that connects the steering column to the steering box on the driver’s side of your engine compartment. It looks like a black rubber disc with metal pins that locate the clock position of the column to the clock position of the steering linkage. The clocking, along with splines on the steering box and column are what allows you to set the wheel in the “straight” position when the steering linkage has the wheels going exactly straight.
The first question is what column you have - is it fixed, does it tilt, or is it a tilt & telescoping column? Each of these designs were slightly different so the bearings inside the column may be different. As far as I know the main source of a different bearing, or set of bearings is a replacement (probably used) column. Someone here may know of a rebuilding service, but I don’t know any.
If I heard weird noises and play in my column, I’d start scanning eBay to find a good used one - either to replace completely, or for parts to put in mine.
To understand the column better, you’re well advised to find an official Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from 1967. It contains removal and service procedures from the factory. There’s no better source than the old Olds book for things like exploded parts diagrams that will show you what bearings or other parts might be making noise.
My co-worker told me yesterday that my rag joint was good. I have a tilt/telescoping steering wheel.
Chris
If you can hear something that doesn’t sound right in the column and you’ve re-done all the moveable parts it connects to, let’s focus on the column.
The rag joint is a rubber/metal/fabric flexible joint that connects the steering column to the steering box on the driver’s side of your engine compartment. It looks like a black rubber disc with metal pins that locate the clock position of the column to the clock position of the steering linkage. The clocking, along with splines on the steering box and column are what allows you to set the wheel in the “straight” position when the steering linkage has the wheels going exactly straight.
The first question is what column you have - is it fixed, does it tilt, or is it a tilt & telescoping column? Each of these designs were slightly different so the bearings inside the column may be different. As far as I know the main source of a different bearing, or set of bearings is a replacement (probably used) column. Someone here may know of a rebuilding service, but I don’t know any.
If I heard weird noises and play in my column, I’d start scanning eBay to find a good used one - either to replace completely, or for parts to put in mine.
To understand the column better, you’re well advised to find an official Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from 1967. It contains removal and service procedures from the factory. There’s no better source than the old Olds book for things like exploded parts diagrams that will show you what bearings or other parts might be making noise.
My co-worker told me yesterday that my rag joint was good. I have a tilt/telescoping steering wheel.
Chris
August 21st, 2023, 07:04 AM
#14
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Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 16,152
Once you install the new tie-rods & idler arm make sure you have the steering aligned. Also, make sure you replace the rag joint as others mentioned. After all that's done let us know how she handles.
August 21st, 2023, 08:25 AM
#15
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September 13th, 2023, 02:42 PM
#16
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yes. I replaced the bushings also. I just replaced the rag joint & that was the main source of my play. I still got a little play & it seems like it’s in the column itself.
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