Am looking at this 'vert..it's yellow with a tan-ish interior.
Looks to be original. In pretty good shape, except for floors...some rot.

The guy's asking $1,500/bo.

Thoughts?

I like the look/lines of the car. Yes, it runs.

Thanks!
Turk

 

I usually will seriously consider a car for that price if it is running and actually have bought a few in the past for in that price range (not a '67 98). I think especially since it is a convertible you should consider it. Can you post any pictures?

edit: moved thread.....

 

You mean like this?






Mine's a Delta 88, not a 98, but it's the same year, and I'm guessing this is very similar in color scheme to what you're describing. Mine has a black top.

If the floor rust you're talking about can be fixed without too much difficulty and the car is otherwise not bad, I'd jump on it for that price.

 

Hopefully this will work...

 

Hey!
It's very similar. I posted a couple pics.
I think the interior is lighter than yours.

Are floors expensive to replace, and are parts even made for Olds?

 

I'm not sure my interior is original. I think yours is.

From what I've learned, Olds offered, in the spring of 1967, something called a "spring special," where several of their convertible models were made available in a yellow-yellow-yellow (paint, interior, top) color scheme. Your interior looks like it could be that original, yellow interior. It may have faded a bit over the years, which is why it looks "tan-ish."

What color is the top?

I was also told that customers didn't always react positively to all that yellow, so some dealers redid the seats in a more sedate color. That's what I think might have happened with mine.

If you can get the info, what does the cowl tag say? It should give, among other things, a code for the build date. It will be something like "05E," which is what's on my car. That indicated a 5th week of May (1967) build date, which would be consistent with when the "spring special" was going on.


As far as patch panels for the floor rust, in general, nothing is made specifically for these cars in the way of body and trim pieces. If you need a bumper or a fender or a piece of chrome, your only hope is to find a good used piece from another car. That's why it's nice to start with a car that's in as good a shape as possible.

From what we can see in your photos, the car you're considering looks pretty darn good. Of course, we can't see underneath, but, as I've said, if it's not too bad, I think $1500 is a great price for a late '60s convertible. If the rusted area isn't too large, you can have a piece fabricated to the right shape and then weld it in or have it welded in.

 

Thanks for the great info!
The top is the same color as the interior. The current owner said this was a triple yellow car...

 

This is all the more reason for you to get this car. Not only is a nice-condition convertible from that era, but it's unusual even among other '67 Olds convertibles because it was one of those spring specials. Get it and hang on to it!

 

I would buy it if it was my money, seriously. Nice looking car from the photos.

 

Thanks.

Any resources on the "Spring Special"? I've looked on Google and found nothing, and the NADA page doesn't include it as an option.

The weathe rhere is awful right now, but I plan to go see the car soon.

Here are a few more pics..needs some work on one side...but looks cosmetic.

 

i would jump on it quick. definitely be a great car to have and to hold on to for a few years. the floor pans can always be fixed. a good fabricator can make all the patch pieces

 

or buy it and i will store it safely away in Ohio for you

 

Most important, CHECK THE FRAME FOR ROT! These cars are very prone to frame rot in salt belt areas because the frame is boxed, it holds salt and dirt and water which over time = rot. 1500 for a car with a rotted frame is not a bargain. Hmmm, all pictures are with top down. I suspect a ripped top or non working top.... I guess close to a grand for a new top, window, pads.

 

All I know about the spring special I learned from on here from Joe Padavano.

Join the club!

Yes, those new photos do shed a bit more light on it. You've got some rust issues in the rear bumper and some body damage to the side to deal with. The body can be repaired. Finding a bumper could take a while. But, hey, it's a $1,500 car.

 

Yes, those new photos do shed a bit more light on it. You've got some rust issues in the rear bumper and some body damage to the side to deal with. The body can be repaired. Finding a bumper could take a while. But, hey, it's a $1,500 car.[/quote]

Ya, I'm not looking for a trailer queen; I want a car I can drive and enjoy for years to come. I plan on keeping it!

 

Will get under the car (when the snow melts..by July, hopefully! LOL) and will check the frame.

Thanks!

 

It is the rear left floor that has the rot-through. Owner says frame is fine, and so is trunk. Engine is the 425.

 

There was no other optional size engine but the 425, my mind would not be at ease by what an owner told me. Talking from experience here... Did you ask why there is snow on the ground and the top is down? Trying to protect you here as well.

 

Thanks! I appreciate you looking out for me!

I've asked him, and for the VIN...hopefully I will have that tonight and post.

 

You own a storage place?

 

I'd buy it, and, in fact, I'll go so far as to say that I live about 3 hours away, and I will buy it if you decide you don't want it. I can probably get the same price for my '73 with a little more work and a spring sale, and I much prefer '60's cars over '70's cars.

- Eric

 

Here is the VIN, although I don't know if the "W" is correct?
384677W247827

Also..the top...he says it needs new hydraulics.

Turk

 

The W is not correct. The letter in that spot in the VIN would tell you the assembly plant. It should be an M, which stands for Lansing assembly plant. All 98's in 1967 were built at the Lansing plant only, so the only character that could be in that spot in the VIN is an M.

Decoding the full VIN just tells you what you already knew. The car is a '67 Olds 98 convertible.


3 = Oldsmobile division
84 = Ninety-Eight (if it were an 86, you would have a "Ninety-Eight Luxury").
67 = convertible body style
7 = 1967 model year
M (not W) = Lansing assembly plant
247827 = production sequence number at the Lansing plant

For Lansing-built cars, the numbers started with 100010 for the 98. Subtracting that from the last six digits shows that your car was number 147,818 of all Olds series (not just 98's) to come off the line at the Lansing plant for the '67 model year.

 

I'm sure he just transposed the letter. He seems pretty honest.

Are hydraulics expensive to repair/replace?

 

I'm sure he did, too. What would he have to gain by lying about a particular character in the VIN, especially this one?

You mean the convertible top hydraulics, correct? The answer is yes. Fusick's latest big-car catalog (#20BC) has all the parts, new, as shown on page 6. New cylinders are $149 each. I think you need two. A new pump motor is $245. New cables are $49.50 per pair. New hoses are $116.50 per pair. If you need all of these things, and assuming I'm correct that two cylinders are needed, the cost is a whopping $709. You better really want to put that top down!

More likely is that most of the parts on the car are OK, and you just need a pump or one cylinder or new hoses or something like that.


Fusick also sells new dash switches for these convertibles. They're not cheap, either, at $73.50 each. Makes you think hard about putting in a $3.00 toggle switch from Radio Shack!

 

He sold it. Oh well. Good for him, I guess. I was making plans to go see it this week (we've had lots of snow).

Maybe it will show up here!

Turk

 

That's called "karma." If it was meant to be, you'd be the owner. Keep looking. You'll find what you want.

 

I now see 2 98 verts for sale..one a 1969 (white/white for $2500); the other a 1970 (red/black for $1600).

Any opinions? Both look good.

 

More info... ?

- Eric

 

Hi, Eric.

Here are the links to the CL postings:

The 1969: http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2147373630.html

The 1970: http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/2131805731.html

I have to tell you..I'm a SUCKER for white interior.

 

The '70 looks nice from the limited info in the ad, but Madison is up almost to Conway - not a quick trip! I'd be tempted if I had any money at all (anybody want to buy a running, registered '73 convertible... ?).

- Eric

 

Upon closer evaluation, the '70 was sold last month, but the seller didn't pull the ad.
Looked nice, too.

Guess that leaves the '69, which I think is a bit overpriced for its condition, but I could be wrong.

- Eric

 

Not necessarily. Convertibles always command a premium. Plus, we're talking the top-of-the-line Olds.

The Old Cars Price Guide, February 2011 edition, puts the value of a #4 condition 1969 98 convertible at $4,000. Number 4 condition, which is "runs and drives but needs complete restoration," describes this car perfectly, I would think. The upside on these is that, if you get it to showroom condition, the value nearly quadruples.

As it always is, Collector Car Market Review is a bit more pessimistic, giving this a value of just under $3,000.

http://collectorcarmarket.com/menus/.../69ol9898.html

But either way, given what these two sources say, an asking price of $2,500 is not at all unreasonable.

 

From the strictly "market value" point of view, I don't disagree, but
from the "I'm buying the car" point of view, with a smashed in grille, rust visible in 20/20 snapshots, and an admittedly torn roof, I'd try to work him a lot closer to $2,000 to feel good about it.

Now, that '70 that was already sold, on the other hand...

- Eric

 

triple yellow ? like this ?

 

now THATS a big banana. LOL.

It wasn't quite so yellow, and its gone now, so am still looking.

 

Good luck with the search. They are beautiful cars. Woman, not so much guys, run to this car at shows. As was stated before, parts are a bear to get. I just replaced my steering column because I couldn't locate a simple turn signal cam. I found the column thru this board and I'm happy result but if you find a part, even if you can't use it immediately....buy it !