I am looking for NEW drums for my 67 Delmont 88 & 67 Delta 88. I have found what I THINK will work but they will not be swedged/pressed into the drum like the original. They are for a 62-75 Pontiac with the same dims as the original drum, but am not sure I want to attempt to go that way. I would rather replace with OEM or as close to that as I can get. Does anyone have any leads to where I can buy new/replacment drums for these cars? Any leads would be appreciated... Also, any spindle/hubs would be good to know the whereabouts as well. Attached are a few pics of the before and after the restorations...
Thank you in advance
Bill

ALSO, any idea on how to get the hub/spindle off the drum without breaking the hib? I am about to try pressing it off, but thought I would reach out to see if anyone else had any other ideas that would help in the ease of getting these drums apart from the hub/spindle...
Again thank you in advance from any help...
Bill
Jaunty75 normally has some good leads on parts, so I am hoping to contact him as well through this post...

 

Scarebird offers conversions for the 65-70 B/C body cars. The brake rotors are quite difficult to find. I imagine it's the same for drum brake cars.

https://www.scarebird.com

You might check out Kanter Auto Parts. I believe they offer Chinese brake rotors for your car, they may have drum parts as well.

 

Send a PM to Craig at mobileparts . He may have what you need .
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...bileparts.html

 

Is there enough metal left on your current drums to true them on a brake lathe? To seperate, you have to push the studs out first.

 

I replaced drums on my 442 front and one hub was not original and the studs were pressed in. I put the drum on a hydraulic press, put a 2x4 across the studs, and gave that puppy the juice and smacked it out of there. Drum bent, hub did not.

 

A BIG THANK YOU to all that have respinded so fast. You DON'T know how much it is appreciated and I THANK ALL of you that responded. As for the questions on the drum. Yes, there is enough metal on the drum to turn it, but unfortunately the drum has been damaged or over heated so bad it can't be turned it's so far out of round. I tried that, so I am wondering when that could have happened, because it always had a shake and rattle when hitting the brakes even when I bought the car. I just got sick of it and thought I would try to improve matters and fpund that the drum could not be turned due to it being so far out of round... I will check out all other leads, and pushing out the studs first is what I was thinking, but wanted to see what others thought as well... THANKS A MILLION...
Bill aka Stumpy

 

Stumpy, you might consider checking out a few more garages to see if anyone is willing to turn the drums you have now. If it's not too far out of round you may be able to find a "mom & pop" garage that would be willing to turn it. Good luck.

 

I've never found a drum that could not be turned if there was enough meat there. Just have them take off enough metal to true them, usually takes a few light cuts.

 

Be careful that just because an alternate drum has the same diameter and shoe width does not mean that it will fit correctly. As an example, the rear drums on a 1980s Custom Cruiser have the same 11"x2" dimensions as the rear drums on my 67 Delta. Just for the heck of it, I tried them. They rub on the backing plate. One COULD make a skim cut and adapt them, but they still won't look right.

 

Thanks for the heads up Joe. I did mic out the new drum and it is actually narrower over all from the face to the FLARE on the original drum by about 1/16, so I should not have a rubbing issue, but have not had a chance to take the hub off the drum yet. I will let ALL know how it goes IF I can or can't get this to work out... I am looking at pressing out the studs this weekend after our local car show... But thank you for that info because I have to do back brakes next on the Delmont 88...
Bill aka Stumpy

 

I have had the old drum cut back, but the whole drum seems to be warped. No matter how they chuck it up, they can't get it to chuck up true. I had 2 different garages check it out. Also, I had O'Reilly's chuck it up and they too could not get it chucked up correctly without wobble. I am at a loss as to what or how this drum got that wacked out of shape. It's odd, I don't have a vibration or shake, shimmy or anything going down the road, but that thing can't be turned. I am open for any suggestions...Maybe after I get it off the hub, I should check it out to see how true it is??? Just a thought...

 

Ok, let me ask this.........
1. How "out of round" are they ? This means they need to be measured with some sort of measuring device, such as an inside micrometer.
2. How much "run out" does it have when "chucked up" ? This is measured with a dial indicator when chucked up.
Without "numbers" for #1 and #2, you are just guessing and pizzing in the wind.
The idea behind turning the drums inside is to make them run true and eliminate brake pedal shudder. Brake drums can change shape over the years due to heavy brake loads and natural stresses being relieved. It is my belief that after they are turned once, they settle down and remain fairly true.

Pep Boys, O'Reilly's and such places are NOT any place I would do anything but purchase car wax and floor mats.
......Just my two cents worth

 

I have to agree with Ralph on this. I took the unobtanium drums for my 67 D88 to a real automotive machine shop to be turned. It was expensive but they did a nice job.

 

I will check the dims with a mic/dial indicator before doing anything.to see how far out it is. I had O'Reilly's check it because I was explaining to them that I had other garages that do brakes say they can't chuck it up to true the brake drum. He was only able to see that the drum was out of wack, never tried to cut it. But after today, I WILL chuck this up in a lathe and dial check the drum so I can see the numbers...Can you PM me a phone number and I will send a short video on how out of round this drum is...
Thank you again for your insight.
Bill aka Stunpy

 

Bill whenever you try a different garage to see if they can turn your drums it might be worthwhile to not mention what the other shops found. Until you use an inside micrometer and dial indicator like Ralph mentioned you won't know their status for sure. Maybe the first shop you took it to was staffed by idiots and the second shop got scared when you told them what you found out. Just a thought, keep us posted.

 

WIll do. And a BIG THANK YOU for all the advice and suggestions... This is why I love this site. A good many heads and thinkers out there to use and bounce off ideas... Will let y'all know after the show this weekend. May ne a few weeks before getting back on the site but will let ya know the results...

 

The drum has to be mounted on the proper arbor that centers it up and squares it up perpendicular to the arbor. Set "0" at the biggest spot in the diameter and count the full revolutions of the indicator needle plus the amount past "0". Chucking it up on the drum will distort the drum. Use your cell phone to record the indicator reading and the indicator dial. Some indicators are graduated in .100" per revolution, and some are less. Write down on paper the inside micrometer readings and take a pic with your cell phone.

Also, with all the "legal" BS of "today", they may or may not have published maximum amounts that can be removed. Ask wherever you the drum to check it. As Olds64 mentioned, don't mention anyone else has checked the drum before. "Seeing the drum was out of whack" is an observation. How much run out in thousandths of an inch is a FACT.

 

Got it... Thank you and will do as you suggested and get back with ya...

 

If the drum had been cut recently, it will be very obvious that someone else has messed with them. I too would like to know how much runout on the ID of the drum there is.

 

ok, I will let ya know as soon as I know...