Jonmueller1

Just picked up 1964 Cutlass from body shop, car had been sitting there for 1 1/2 years. It will sometimes start but will not stay running and will not pull the car forward. Had it flat beded home. Possibilities:
1) Change fuel filter
2) Replace old gas with new gas before trying to restart
3) Pour carb cleaner down the carb while trying to keep it running to clean out potential gathered varnish on jets etc. Aftermarket Ellerbrect is on the car and it has worked well in the past.
4)Replace fuel pump. The car was driven to body shop in April 2012, but was sometimes unable to be started. After waiting a spell it would start.
5) Change spark plugs.
I think this is a fuel flow problem. I am looking for suggestions of things I can try to get this car to start and move under its own power before towing it again to a garage to have them fix it. The body work cost a small fortune so I am tapped for funds. Again your help is much appreciated. Thank you. Jon M.

oldcutlass

Jon, engines need 3 things to run and stay running. They need air, good fuel, and a strong well timed spark.

Start with the basics, while looking into the carb with the air cleaner off, do you have 2 solid streams of clean fuel squirting in the carb when you operate the throttle linkage with the engine off? Does the fuel smell like varnish?

Do you have power to the coil in both start and run positions of your ignition key? Do you have a good spark at the plugs?

pogo69

also double check that you have no major vacuum leak

stan 65 cutlass

add new gas,

Jonmueller1

Update Saturday September 14:
1)Changed spark plugs,cleaned point contacts on distributor cap;siphoned old gas out of tank and replaced with 6 gallons of new gas.
2)Car will start and run, but the car will die unless the choke flap stays closer to the closed position. If I stick a screw driver and hold the choke flap closed, the car will continue to run. The carburetor could need cleaning since it sat for 1 1/2 years with no gas stabilizer. i.e. the idle jets are dirty. This car has an Ellerbrock with an electric choke.
3) I have purchased a new fuel pump in case that may be needed, but have not installed yet.
4)I have to replace water pump because I found it was leaking. Once that is done next week, I am going to try and run the car on the road after dumping gumout down the carburetor and hope the carburetor will clear out.
But, I was told by carburetor rebuilder to definitely have it rebuilt since the idle jets are dirty.
So, I can get it to stay running as long as I keep my foot down to keep rpms say at 900 or so, but when they drop to idle, the car will die unless the choke is in the closed position which I know is not normal.
Thanks for any input here...Best regards, Jon M

oldcutlass

Sounds like a vacuum leak.

MDchanic

Vacuum leak or idle jets gummed up.

If you can't find a leak, you've got to take it apart and clean it.

- Eric

Jonmueller1

The only vacumn hose I noticed is the one between the carburetor and the vacumn advance on the distributor. Are there any others? THX JM

MDchanic

Vacuum to modulator, power brake, or A/C system?

- Eric

pogo69

You know your engine best...check any and all fittings/hoses on the manifold,check carb mounting bolts and maybe even check intake torque

cjsdad

Does your engine have a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve? These valves are usually plumbed to the carb base with a large vacuum hose. They have all kinds of oil and crud sucked through them for years of operation. After sitting for that long yours could be stuck open. This can cause a huge vacuum leak that is difficult to find because there is no open leak to hear.

I have had this happen on two different cars and the engine runs fine except when allowed to idle. To test it, pull the vacuum hose off and plug it. Obviously if the engine runs right the valve is bad.

Just a thought.

Jonmueller1

Changed water pump, started engine and tried to run on road for a distance. There is no power, could barely make it back up the hill to return to house.
Going to check all vacumn lines, vacumn advance on distributor. Also have to assume that accelerator pump not working properly on Edelbrock carburetor as a possibility since it sat for 1 1/2 years in body shop.

oldcutlass

The accelerator pump is easy enough to check, just remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb and see if you have 2 solid sprays of fuel. I would also pop of the dist. cap and check your points, and then make sure the dwell and timing settings are right.

Jonmueller1

When I open and close the throttle repeatedly looking down the throat of the carburator, I do not see any stream of gas whatsoever....

Jonmueller1

Got car running better last night. Sprayed gumout down float vent on carburetor and immediately it started running better. Took idle screws screws out, cleaned and sprayed gumout into hole where they go in. Ran car on road and it runs, but idle is up and down. Now car won't shift into second. I am going to replace all rubber vacumn lines to distributor, transmission modulator and brake servo. There must be a leak somewhere.

MDchanic

I'd rebuild that carburetor at this point if I were you.

- Eric

Jonmueller1

I agree. I was quoted $250 to rebuild the elderbrock carb, but can buy a new one for $300, so I may do that. I think the old carb has blockages due to sediment and varnish from the gas because it sat for almost two years in a shop.

oldcutlass

I would not trouble shoot by replacing stuff. You can block off and isolate by removing vacuum lines and plugging them. It's a lot cheaper that way. I second possibly a carb issue as Eric stated.

oldstata

The Eddie rebuild kits are 50 bucks and are a base modle design I would spend the fifty bucks have a clean area and have some fun while learning . At best you fixed it for 50 bucks maybe 30 on top for a gal of carb cleaner
At worse you could sell it for a 80. Needing a rebuild and get your loses back