help, my 67 cutlass oldsmobile won't start
*Fixed: help, my 67 cutlass oldsmobile won't start
Maybe someone can help me with this one. I have 1967 oldsmobile cutlass, with a non-stock 350 oldsmobile engine. It was running smooth for about 500 miles city driving from the time I installed the engine. I parked it in the driveway a couple nights ago and it won't start.
I hooked up an inline spark tester (with a bulb) and there is no spark when I crank it. I have 12 v dc going into the distributor. I replaced the electronic distributor and cap with the one that I had (which was running) from the 330 c.i. engine I took out last year. Still no spark?? I placed a voltmeter at the distributor power and when I crank the engine the voltage drops to 9.5 volts.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
*edit I should mention that I did re-use the white rotor cap that fits inside the distributor (two philips screws). I don't know what they are called and will go get a different one of these and try to replace this.
Cheers,
I hooked up an inline spark tester (with a bulb) and there is no spark when I crank it. I have 12 v dc going into the distributor. I replaced the electronic distributor and cap with the one that I had (which was running) from the 330 c.i. engine I took out last year. Still no spark?? I placed a voltmeter at the distributor power and when I crank the engine the voltage drops to 9.5 volts.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
*edit I should mention that I did re-use the white rotor cap that fits inside the distributor (two philips screws). I don't know what they are called and will go get a different one of these and try to replace this.
Cheers,
Last edited by Joah_from_Alberta; Jun 10, 2014 at 06:23 PM.
Maybe someone can help me with this one. I have 1967 oldsmobile cutlass, with a non-stock 350 oldsmobile engine. It was running smooth for about 500 miles city driving from the time I installed the engine. I parked it in the driveway a couple nights ago and it won't start.
I hooked up an inline spark tester (with a bulb) and there is no spark when I crank it. I have 12 v dc going into the distributor. I replaced the electronic distributor and cap with the one that I had (which was running) from the 330 c.i. engine I took out last year. Still no spark?? I placed a voltmeter at the distributor power and when I crank the engine the voltage drops to 9.5 volts.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
*edit I should mention that I did re-use the white rotor cap that fits inside the distributor (two philips screws). I don't know what they are called and will go get a different one of these and try to replace this.
Cheers,
I hooked up an inline spark tester (with a bulb) and there is no spark when I crank it. I have 12 v dc going into the distributor. I replaced the electronic distributor and cap with the one that I had (which was running) from the 330 c.i. engine I took out last year. Still no spark?? I placed a voltmeter at the distributor power and when I crank the engine the voltage drops to 9.5 volts.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
*edit I should mention that I did re-use the white rotor cap that fits inside the distributor (two philips screws). I don't know what they are called and will go get a different one of these and try to replace this.
Cheers,
Thanks for your reply Joe, I am running the HEI distributor avail from 75-80, it has the build in coil in the cap. Also I should mention that the rotor is turning when I crank the engine.
I purchased another rotor from the wreaking yard and will try and replace this (after the rain maybe).
Cheers,
I purchased another rotor from the wreaking yard and will try and replace this (after the rain maybe).
Cheers,
Thanks for your reply Joe, I am running the HEI distributor avail from 75-80, it has the build in coil in the cap. Also I should mention that the rotor is turning when I crank the engine.
I purchased another rotor from the wreaking yard and will try and replace this (after the rain maybe).
Cheers,
I purchased another rotor from the wreaking yard and will try and replace this (after the rain maybe).
Cheers,
I assume you are using a spark tester to see if you have spark while cranking. If there's power to the BATT terminal and the cap, rotor, and coil are known to be good, it's probably the module.
Not in Canada, everything is atleast $20. But ok, module you say? Is that within the distributor? the black ic maybe?
*edit yeah I grabbed one of those from the wrecking yard, I'll swap that out if nothing else,
Cheers,
*edit yeah I grabbed one of those from the wrecking yard, I'll swap that out if nothing else,
Cheers,
Last edited by Joah_from_Alberta; Jun 10, 2014 at 03:33 PM.
Okay, so I have resolved the issue. When I swapped the dizzy out I kept the rotor frm the old-- and voila. The Gods remarked the error of my ways. Now that I have a new rotor, the engine starts again!
Cheers,
Cheers,
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