Would any body have any venders to purchase a quality battery disconnect switch? I was looking for the one that has the **** that screws down to make battery contact since this would bolt on to my battery and let me leave the spring terminal on my new harness. I bought one from the local Harbor Freight and found that the lug is so small that the spring terminal slide right over it. This would be very helpful to be able to kill the battery while working on the interior and not having to remove the terminals off the battery all the time. It would also let me hook up the O gauge wire for my stereo.

Thanks Dave

 

This is the one I have, and I love it. I don't know if it will fit your specific application, but it will work with top or side post batteries. I was skeptical because it looked to simple, but it works like a charm.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Discon...208732&sr=1-20

 

Last time someone asked this question, I did a quick search and found some internet sources for various switches. You should have no trouble finding a variety to pick from.

 

Hook up stereo power wire?
Cable end fits loose?
Sound like you have the disconnect on the positive post of the battery?
Battery disconnects always go on the negative terminal, reason the cable end fits loose.

As long as the ground is disconnected you never have to remove the positive cable to do any work on the car.

If you want to hook up a stereo and don't care about battery originality get a top/side post battery and use the top posts for the car and ground disconnect and the side positive post for the stereo power cable.

 

Is there a resaon that the disconnects are put on the negative side? I have 3 cars with it hooked up on the positive side and haven't had a problem, but will move them if it is better. Dave

 

To answer your question, I was going to have the switch installed on the positive side of the battery which would give me the spot to install my power for the stereo supply wire. I just purchased a brand new battery and never thought about the dual post battery which is an excellent idea for the stereo hook up. I guess what your saying is that the neg. terminal which has the nut and bolt can be tightened opposed to the pos. spring terminal.

Thanks Dave

 

I always put the disconnect on the negative side because that way, even a wrench dropped on the positive terminal itself will not arc. If the disconnect is on the positive side a tool touching the positive terminal will arc. Similarly, whenever I remove battery cables, I remove the negative first and install the negative last. Just common sense.

 

I went with the knife switch type due to the fact I could look across the engine bay and determine that the battery was disconnected. I did not feel I would have the same ability with the **** twist type.

http://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20148-...=pd_sim_auto_4

d1

 

Made in the USA quality!

Top post style
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Side post style
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

Looks just like the ones I get at Carlisle for $5.

 

I used one of these that I got while working for VW. You push the button on the box and you have 30seconds to start the car then it automatically shuts off again. Once the engine is running it detects the alternator charging and stays connected. 10 minutes after losing that signal it disconnects the battery again.

http://www.billswebspace.com/vw.tb.0...off_switch.pdf

Most VW dealers just threw these in the garbage after performing the PDI.

 

Agreed. I work for a communications company and a do a LOT of work for local municipalities involving vehicle radio and accessories (cop cars). We ALWAYS disconnect the negative battery cable very first thing. It's what we teach our new guys to do before ever touching a wrench to the car.

 

The geniuses at NHRA don't know electrons flow from the anode to the cathode. They require the cut off switch to be on the + cable.

 

The cheap Harbor Freight unit broke in two before I even had a chance to try it. While tightening the negitive terminal onto the lug, the torque broke the switch in two. The unit is less then 1/16th thick in the area that it broke and like others said is made out of aluminium. Time to either try the (made in USA) switch or the knife gate.

Dave

 

Dave, I bought a side post switch from that ebay vendor for my '70 SS Chevelle and a top post switch from him as well for my '70 442.

These switches have been in use on these cars for over a year now with no problems.

I always use these disconnect switches to disconnect the batteries in both of these cars when they are not in use, as the factory clocks in both cars have been recently rebuilt.