Fellas,
So, I have a 170amp mechman alternator, that was bench tested at 193 @8000 rpm.
The main lead hot wire that is normally hooked up to the horn relay/junction block, then feeds the lead hot wire that goes into the cab and feeds the fuse box...
i want to place the main lead into the cab on a fuse, but im trying to figure out how much total amp is needed to power the fuse block. im reading its 60amps total,
but then i look on my chasis manual and noticed that there is a 40amp circuit breaker.
1. does that 40amp circuit breaker feed the entire panel ?
2.does that mean the fuse panel only needs 40amps to power it and the entire car ?
3. has anyone here ran a high amp alternator, and how did you go about feeding the car ?
I have seen some people use a fuse block in the engine bay, that can feed EFI, which i intend to install, also an electric fan. I dont want to add anything onto the original fuse box, thus why i want to have a separate one in the engine bay.

 

There is already a fusible link that performs function provided by the manufacturer.
I recommend a separation fuse block for your additional accessories that fuse requirement is based on the total load for the new bock.

 

What manufacturer, make, model and year vehicle requires such a tiny ALT?

 

I like what Eric suggested - a separate(d) dedicated fuse panel to manage additional load(s).

 

Thanks for the inputs.
My car is a 1973 Delta 88 Royale convertible.
yes i am aware of the other components, such as the EFI and electric fan....what they require.
yes, i am aware of the fusible link thats there, mine is removed. Just need to know what fuse amp should i run in replace of the link.
when i google it, it says 60amps run the original fuse block, but the chasis manual has a 40 amp circuit breaker, which i think that for the entire fuse block
just want to confirm

 

You need to replace the link, there are reasons that GM didn’t use a fuse.

 

You should not try to feed 170 amps through the original wiring or the factory fuse box. If you plan to install high current accessories, i.e. electric fans, electric fuel pump, high-power audio system, fuel injection. you should install an auxiliary fuse box for these new circuits and fused power distribution. I added a fuse block under the hood with capacity for 5 relays and 10 fuses; this was enough to handle the AC blower relay, fuel injector relay, electric fans and headlights. I also installed a 4-fuse distribution bus bar to protect the 800 watt stereo amp, the alternator and the under dash fuse block. Here's some pics and wiring schematics.

Rodney


The large fuses at the top of this pic are AMI (MIDI) fuses. the other fuse block is made buy Bussmann/Cooper.



These AMI fuse holders snap together to form a block; the top fuse feeds the under dash fuse block, the 2nd fuse protects the alternator, 3rd fuse feeds the Bussmann fuse block and the 4th fuse feeds the audio amp directly from the battery.



This is a partial wiring diagram for the Bussmann fuse block.

 

Thanks for the reply, i just looked up some info regarding this. Fuses and Fusible links are the same thing, they are just made from differently.

Both fuses and fusible links are electrical safety devices that protect circuits from overcurrent, but they differ in construction and application.
Why would GM use a fusible link versus a fuse.....
GM, like many car manufacturers, used fusible links instead of fuses in certain circuits, particularly those with high current demands, for reasons of cost and simplicity

the wire size on the lead wire going into the cab is a 10 gauge wire....
A 10-gauge copper wire is typically rated for a maximum current of 30 amps

 

Now This is what im looking for !! ... Thanks
if my guess is right, your Alternator is a 175 amp ?

And no sir, i wasn't trying to run that wire directly to the fuse box.... thus the reason why i posted and asked... much appreciated

 

Rodney - Nice write-up. I did something similar on my last boat w/ the exception I wired in a DC>AC power inverter for some add-on AC power accessories commonly used in the cabin. My mind was marshmallows for several days figuring that one out.

 

Gunmetal:
I have installed a CS130 alternator rated to 160A. I also rewired the car with a modern ATC blade-style fuse block from American Auto Wire. My inspriation/education for the project came from a great "how-to" thread I found on a Toyota 4Runner/Tacoma forum site. Here's the link

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...-block.399454/

Norm:
Thanks for the props. I had an extra circuit in the new ATC fuse block so I used it to power a small, 120w AC inverter. It's wired through a relay driven by the accessory side of the fuse block so the inverter turns off with the ignition switch there is a dedicated switch in the glove box so it's not on all the time. I hand draw wiring diagrams to work out the details then draw them in color with a simple CAD program I've used for 20+ years. I follow my color-coded drawings when doing the wiring and soldering. Another tip I follow, I layout my drawings viewed from the bottom of the device so I don't have to flip the wiring diagram in my head.

Here's a sample of my drawings





Rodney

 

Those diagrams are beautiful. I go from chicken scratch to chicken scratch diagrams>PowerPoint (w/ electrical symbols) diagrams - very painful, but worth it. BTW, the AC inverter I installed was 10KW. I'm not very good with thinking big stuff (such as I did) so it took me awhile. I recall the day I got to a decisive stopping point when I (stupidly) thought I'd like to go backwards AC>DC. The thing w/ a boat is you pull into a slip/dock expecting one type service 30Amp/50Amp (generally) etc. (polarity) then decide on which appliances you want or will be running. That's when I knew I was out of my mind & stopped at the AC inverter. Enough is enough.