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I have a 1968 Cutlass Convertible that has a factory Tic Toc Tach. The tach works but does not always display the correct RPM (off idle it reads to high). I have narrowed down to what I believe is a bulging capacitor(s) on the tach circuit board. I would like to replace them but have no idea what their ratings might be can anyone lend a hand in determining what capacitors should be ordered and replaced?
Black capacitor I knocked off all the white powder but now idea whats its ratings might be. Looks like it might have been leaking too on the cardboard tube.
The blue capacitor looks OK but still really can't tell. I guess I could remove and do some ohmmeter testing?
Any thoughts on how to approach this problem would be appreciated.
Most capacitors have markings on the component body with the voltage rating and capacitance value. Not sure if any of that is still visible on your parts.
May I suggest you place a call to Red Line Gauge Clock Repair in Humboldt, TN. 731-571-0766. John is extremely helpful on the telephone. I bet he can give you a lead. Hope this helps.
I emailed Red Line Gauge Clock Repair with the same information I provided. Unfortunately they were not willing to share the capacitor information. That is fine there is more than one way to solve a problem.
That is awesome! I would have never thought someone would be making new circuit boards.I will contact them I have a few questions like, I can't tell from the photo if the new circuit board will provide power to the clock and why is there no traces to the light bulbs? I will find out and let you know how it turns out.
I emailed Red Line Gauge Clock Repair with the same information I provided. Unfortunately they were not willing to share the capacitor information. That is fine there is more than one way to solve a problem.
Of course not! Why didn't you CALL and establish a rapport with them, perhaps offering to purhase the capacitor from them? Cold email was the wrong way to proceed, IMO.
Fun71 this is a pic of the rear of the idiot light pod. If I understand your question correctly, when the bulb that is inserted into the fixture is turned upside down and twisted into the opening the two prongs at 2 and 8 oclock make contact with the positive side of the board. The ground is accomplished through the dash. As said, this is the backside of the idiot light pod, almost certain the TTTach lights are the same.
The lights fit into their connector that go through the holes in top of the board just like the rest of the gauges. The traces for the lights have to be on the top of the board because that is where the lights socket expect to make there electrical connection. This cannot be reversed or the light will be shining inside the dashboard instead of through the gauges to to your eyes.
I agree, I could have tried to buddy up to them through a phone call. I tend to be more direct and use email since it affords me the opportunity to also send pictures of exactly what I need. The vendor could have offered to sell me the parts in exchange for the information and I would have bought the parts. They choose to close the door instead. My feeling is they want to do the complete repair or nothing at all. That is fine I have no hard feelings about the position they took
You are correct about the "twist in" bulb sockets - they need exposed copper traces in order to make electrical contact. I just did not know for sure if the tach used that style or the clock style that I posted.
It shows the bulbs are indeed the twist in socket types and there should be surface traces for the electrical contact.
Also note you can see the large capacitor markings - it's a 4.7µF 16 Volt electrolytic capacitor that you should be able to find at any electronics supply store.
To the OP, good luck with the fix to your Rally Pod. I've used Redline for a clock conversion and had a good experience with John. I also called him on the phone to discuss an issue I had at one time with a Rally gas gauge. He was cordial, helpful, and full of suggestions. Of course, that was my experience with him, and I regret you encountered a different outcome.
Please let us know how your conversion went if you select to use the eBay seller for the tach circuit board. Happy Motoring!
