The drivers side power window on my 65 Starfire quit working and is stuck in the “ down” position. I have verified that the window switch is ok and there is power to the widow motor. I have tried jumping across the switch contact block but nothing happens. I can operate the other 3 windows but not the driver’s side. I think I need to pull the motor but not sure how. The service manual doesn’t seem to cover it. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

 

Interesting, I currently have the back seat out of the 63 Starfire and have removed and reinstalled 1 of the 2 rebuilt motors we rebuilt ourselves. To say the least this has been an experience getting the quarter glass out and back in. Yes, the 63 shop manual does not explain to much. It was struggle with some help I may say to get this first 1 back in. We decided we have most done some things wrong because 58 years ago because either on the assembly line or at an Olds dealer the procedure could not have been this difficult. ( at least it was for 2 Older Olds guys) So now on the 2nd one were going to try it a little differently. The front windows should be easier for you. As far as the motors there's not much too them- torquie little guys! Just took them apart cleaned up everything-brushes, armature,contacts, etc lube where needed. and tested it bingo! so at least this 1 works.

 

Do you have the 1965 Body Manual? It's separate from the Chassis Service Manual and doors, window regulators, body wiring etc is in it.

Make sure you pin the regulator mechanism in place. It's under spring tension and can break arms and shear off fingers.

Later editions of the Fisher Body manual include templates that allow you to access the window motor mounting bolts by using a hole saw to make access holes in the door structure. Otherwise the entire regulator assembly has to come out with motor attached to get to them.

Use the template to center-punch a drill starter dimple and then use the hole saw to open access holes. The magic of GM window motors is they're pretty much identical throughout 60s and 70s so the template in later FB manuals works on earlier cars.

 

Walla! This is from 1976 FB manual. You should be able to adapt it to 1965 B67 doors.

 

Thanks guys. I did find some info in the body manual that was helpful but not detailed enough. But it gave me enough data to realize I couldn’t do anything with the window in the down position short of cutting a lot of inside skin away to reach the bolts. And I couldn’t raise the window more than an inch. My solution was to remove bolts holding the motor regulator and the inner cam, and with some help, raise the window with motor-regulator attached to a position where I could reach and remove the window stops. After that it was almost by the book. Removed the glass. Removed the motor-regulator, pinned it and removed the motor.
Motor connector was melted. Any advice on rebuild? Or is it scrap. Thanks all

 

Weighing in as 1966 well informed, but no specialist in A bodies.

First thing to know is that a window in the down position is a spring loaded window: aka Dangerous. Release the spring tension on the window raising spring by working on it in the “up” position as best you can.

The basic things to look for are weak/broken wires in the driver’s door, bad relay in the driver’s kick panel, and finally onto the wires in/out of the window motors. I’ve found the window motor connectors pretty robust over the years, but if the motor grounds out, the plastic connector will melt in not long. Usually the driver’s door wires go first since they bend _every_time_ the driver’s door is opened or closed.

It’s gonna sound weird here, but you can replace the harness-to-motor plastic shell connectors pretty easily and leave a few inches of extra wire for fixes later on. GM used the “T” shaped connectors until the mid-70’s or so and even then, if you needed to, you could use generic “universal” connectors to a good driver’s window motor. But with a bunch of electrical tape or insulation since it’s a wet location (like after a car wash…) It’s probably sensible to replace the driver’s window motor since it gets used most often of all 4 windows. In a pinch, swap the rear quarter and driver’s front window motor if you don’t want to buy new. My read of the replacement window motor market is that replacements run $120-140 per motor. Personally I prefer the old under-used rear window motors from the 60’s - 70’s. I have a hunch they were just better made than the latter day stuff.

Any way good luck with the fix and hope something in the notes above might help you.

Cheers
Chris

 

Thanks. That’s good advice about moving the window motors. I didn’t think of that. But I think the driver’s side motor is toast. It probably was a short to ground, as you said, since the T connector melted. I checked the harness and switches and they are okay.
Russ