Does the 1968 Fisher Body service manual include a template to remove/repalce the window motors? If so, can someone share the template?

Trying to figure out how to replace my power window motors.

 

There is not a template I am aware of. Do not remove the motor from the regulator without drilling a hole in the two arms to lock the regulator in position. The counter balance spring is strong enough to remove your finger. The procedure should be in the body manual. Page 6-26 tells you how.

 

I dont own the Fisher manual and cant find the pdf online for free anymore. Do you have the page that goes over replacing the motors? It's a 68 Holiday Sedan and I need to replace the pass front and rear motors with a set I got from a member on here.

 

I guess this brings me to the next issue. I test plugged in the motors and still am not getting power on the right side. Ive gotten the right side to roll down randomly and slowly but would need assistant going back up.

Where should I start if I am not getting power from any switch (door switched only driver side responds). Pass front and rear switches do nothing. I've tried to power the switch with a test probe and no luck.

 

The right front door gets power on it's own harness coming from the driver side plug above the left knee. The right rear window gets it's power from a split near that other plug and runs under the driver seat and across the floor to the right door. Put 12 volts direct tone terminal on the motor and ground on the other. Motor should move if it is OK. Switch wires to move motor in other direction. If motor moves it's a wiring problem, usually at the drivers door jamb, inside the rubber boot. No pics from me. Still trying to fathom Vintage Chief's instruction.

 

I pulled out my voltage meter and all the plugs are getting 11.6v (my battery needs to be charged. I tested each switch including from drivers side and it is sending power. At this point the motor has to be dead. I tried probing 12v to the motors in the car now and it didnt move.

I just got a used set from a user on here...when I plugged those in they didnt move either. I tried plugging it on the working driver side and it still didnt move. I'm assuming I got a dead set also?

It looks like the motors on the passenger side have been replaced at one point because the front has a conversion pigtail for the plug. They also cut some of the door panel to get access so changing out should be hard once I figure out the motor situation.

 

Take your fresh motors to the battery and ground the motor case, then put 12v to each motor terminal, one at a time. If they don't move, you have a motor problem. I would like to be there to help you trouble shoot (where ever you are) but I am fresh out of holidays. Big project to-day, change patio door screen. I found your template (pg 6-27) but it is for B & C bodies.

 

I am in sunny San Diego. It's okay, you are actually helping me get closer. I think I figured it out. I need someone patient like you to get it resolved.

I hooked the replacement motors directly to a 12v source and they do turn. I think my issue was it wasn't grounded properly when I had tried plugging it in earlier. I will go back later tonight and try to get a better ground. The only thing I noticed is one of the motors spins and the gear wheel pops out the housing. I dont think it will be an issue when its sandwiched in place?

In regards to the comment about drilling a hole in between the two arms. Basically just drill a hole and place a pin in between while I remove the motor to prevent it from dropping the glass? Am I understanding that correctly? I don't have the body manual, just the assembly and chassis service manuals. Can you take a photo of page 6-26 for me?

 

No, usually I take the motor and regulator out as a unit after I slide the rollers out of the slide channels. The lowest channel is removed with two bolts, slide channel off roller, then wiggle the upper rollers out of the upper channel. Need to block the glass to keep it from dropping. Then, when the whole thing is out you drill a hole through the two arms where they intersect and insert a bolt (1/4") and nut to keep the counter weight spring from folding the unit up when you remove those three bolts that hold the motor in place. Hope this makes sense. No pics, my tech went to bed. She starts early AM and I don't have the app on my phone which also does not have data.

 

I am a visual learner so I will need to find the manual that goes over or a video of someone actually removing it. I will look around. Thanks for your help.

 

Four bolts hold the motor to the door. and when you get the assembly out, I think it's three bolts to remove the motor from the regulator. I don't know what is going on with this underlying problem. I'm going to sleep on it.

 

I took a closer look and I think I got it. Rear door is a bit different the motor is mounted on the bottom right of the door but shouldnt be hard to figure out. I'll give it a shot when I get some free time. Thanks for your help.

 

Started with the front and got it out. Got some nice cuts on my hands and wrist as well. It took a bit of manoeuvring to get it to come out, the motor that is in there now is a bit bigger than the original and made it harder to come out.

Which pieces so I need to drill and pin? I am assuming the black gear with the plate behind it?

 

I dug around some other forums and was able to find a scan from a Buick (63-65 Riviera) manual. If anyone was looking for it here it is:

 

I hate window work. Glad you found instructions. While you're in there clean off all that 50+ yr old grease and lube everything. Brake cleaner to get the gunk off and white lithium grease works well to lube the tracks and gears, or Harbor Freight has "Super Lube" synthetic grease that I've used on ratchets and other applications. With motor refurb and clean freshly lubed window mechanisms, those windows will work like they did in 1968!

 

Thanks. If you can believe it, the passenger side windows haven't been rolled down in almost 12 years. I plan on cleaning everything out and using Super Lube. Hopefully it goes back in easy and the rear isn't too difficult.

 

You're halfway there. The hard part is to get the windows aligned after reassembly.

 

What is required to align the windows? Sounds like a PITA

 

You have to play with that lower slide channel to get the glass to move up and down smoothly and not canted. There is a slot at each end of that bar (channel) and you have to find the sweet spot for the glass to be properly aligned. Look for the marks that the bolts left before you removed them and this will give you a starting point.

 

I actually got everything back together. Just used the bolt head markings and it lined up like it was before. The window moves so quick! I need to clean out the driver side rails. I was so used to them moving slow. I am going to replace the rear tonight. I dont know why I didnt take care of it sooner.

For anyone who is taking on this in the future, just unscrew the rails from the windows and put them on the wheels then reinstall. Took 10 minutes to put back in. I should of done that when removing it also.

 

Wow. Haven't rolled these down in almost 12 years. Thanks for all your help again.

 

Good job, young'un!

 

Glad to see it worked for you. Next project?

 

Well, since January I went all out and replaced the front and rear control arms, rear control arm bracing, lowering springs, ball joints, bushings, added adjustable shocks, rear sway bar, front/rear Wilwood disc brakes w/ Wilwood master cylinder, new 18" wheels and tires, quick ratio steering box and a few other goodies. It is pretty much a pro touring suspension setup. Just finishing up the interior with new carpet and Pro90 bucket seats. I have a built TH400 that I need to get installed but waiting to get some funds as I think it will need a custom drive shaft.

Not sure what bit me but I just starting working on the car and came to realize it is not that difficult. I will be working on installing the new hard brake lines today and also some LED headlights I picked up w/ a new harness from Dapper Lighting. I am going to post some pictures soon.

I would like to get the A/C hooked up and see if it works. It has been disconnected since I got the car but everything is hooked up. I just need to connect the belt. That is one of the ones I am dreading on my bucket list as well.

 

Thank you

 

You have done so much to this car that it is a clear indication that you need another '68 as a stable mate. More is better. Make sure the compressor bearing is in good shape.

 

To be quite honest, it's my first classic car and I've had it so long it gave me a chance to actually learn about the a-body. Also being a postless 4 door, it's nothing special but by the time I find myself and can get a 442 I will know the car inside out. I'm just having fun at this point.

If you find yourself running out of room, please remember me if you decide to give away one of your 442's

 

I remember when you first started hanging out with us you were a little afraid of trying to fix things yourself. You were what, 17-18 at the time? Been there done that. You've come a long way, my young friend. Sounds like there's not much you won't tackle yourself now. And if you will tackle windows, you can probably understand and fix about anything!

 

Yes, I got the car and joined when I was 21. Daily drove it for 9 years to work and it sat for a couple years after the brakes went bad. I've invested in some good tools and the service manuals also. I am going to be making an update thread on the car once I am able to get it out of the garage soon. I just need to get the brake lines finished and bled and get a seat in there.