What style of Battery Cut-Off Switch

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Old May 8, 2016 | 08:50 AM
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What style of Battery Cut-Off Switch

Looking for advice on a proper Battery Cut-Off switch for my 66 Track Pack Car.
I'm hoping to take it to a couple of 'test & tune's' this year, and I know I need one to be able to compete. I'm thinking I would want something that is unobtrusive, yet accessible. What are you using?
Old May 11, 2016 | 09:13 AM
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Maybe I should have asked what type you have seen used, or recommend?
Old May 11, 2016 | 09:50 AM
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Summit n Jegs offer the high quality cut offs. Have a look. Then do the research to see whats allowed as far as where it needs to be mounted. Also check the rules...I dont think its required on a street car. Unless your into the 10s
Old May 11, 2016 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Summit n Jegs offer the high quality cut offs. Have a look. Then do the research to see whats allowed as far as where it needs to be mounted. Also check the rules...I dont think its required on a street car. Unless your into the 10s
My understanding is that if your battery is mounted in the trunk an external cutoff switch is required. I have done a lot of looking, there seems to be only a couple of general styles. Looking for suggestions based on what others in my situation have used.
Old May 11, 2016 | 02:38 PM
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Does it matter if its hidden or not? Does it need to be NHRA approved to turn off both the battery and the engine?
Old May 11, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Does it matter if its hidden or not? Does it need to be NHRA approved to turn off both the battery and the engine?
I'm thinking that it would need to be visible at the track. It only needs to disconnect the battery (in case of electrical fire I guess).
Ideally, it could be set up so that it would be visible at the track and hidden for cruising (maybe wishful thinking).
Old May 11, 2016 | 07:25 PM
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I would run the rod type through an extra tail light housing. Pick up a spare drill the hole run the rod through. When your not at the track unscrew the rod and swap the housing, and your on the road again with no holes in the body.
Old May 12, 2016 | 06:48 AM
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Brilliant Eric! Use the bulb socket hole if it lines up. Randy Id look at the track rules before doing anything.
Old May 12, 2016 | 07:23 AM
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I'd love to say its my idea, however I'm just relaying what I've seen in the past.
Old May 12, 2016 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
I would run the rod type through an extra tail light housing. Pick up a spare drill the hole run the rod through. When your not at the track unscrew the rod and swap the housing, and your on the road again with no holes in the body.
Eric, that is a great idea! Thank You!
Old May 12, 2016 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Brilliant Eric! Use the bulb socket hole if it lines up. Randy Id look at the track rules before doing anything.
I have verified that it is a requirement.
Old May 12, 2016 | 08:07 AM
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Kewl...
Pics of the completed mod please. And more pics of your track pack 1320 brawler. Id have 66 if I didn't have a 68 and no room. Missed my chance at a L69 many years ago...kick...kick...kick.
What is the tracks rule just out of curiosity...under a certain time you need a cage, fuel cell and a switch?

Eric your still getin the credit.

Steve
Old May 12, 2016 | 10:30 AM
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Under 11:00 a cage is required, not sure on the fuel cell.

Here's a couple more pics....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Side Driveway.jpg (1.76 MB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg
Interior.jpg (2.14 MB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg
New Exhaust.jpg (1.85 MB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg
Front End 1.jpg (1.98 MB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg
Front End 2.jpg (1.91 MB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg
100_3664.JPG (1.94 MB, 19 views)
Old May 12, 2016 | 10:36 AM
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Couple more...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
100_3729.JPG (2.33 MB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg
Drivers Side -Front.jpg (2.56 MB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg
100_4097.JPG (1.55 MB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg
100_3746.JPG (2.26 MB, 15 views)

Last edited by RandyS; May 12, 2016 at 10:38 AM.
Old May 12, 2016 | 11:42 AM
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Awesome car Randy.
Old May 12, 2016 | 08:35 PM
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I'm getting foggy on this, but there's SOME Olds option that has a switch in the bumper behind the plate. I THINK it's factory air shocks, and maybe it's just the valve.

But, maybe you could mount a switch there, behind the plate, then take the plate off to race (and remember to put it back on when done).
Old May 13, 2016 | 07:26 AM
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The only thing that prevents me from considering this option is the fact that the gas tank is right there. A rear end collision and battery connections provide a spark and fuel enough to create a serious fire.
Old May 13, 2016 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
The only thing that prevents me from considering this option is the fact that the gas tank is right there. A rear end collision and battery connections provide a spark and fuel enough to create a serious fire.
Agreed, plus I don't think there is enough room in that spot.
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