like i said i want to install a ELECTRIC FAN but don't no what is best for my 307....


I found 2 on ebay...?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-ZI...1%7C240%3A1318



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330293377505


were do i go with this?

 

Go to Summit and buy a "puller" fan

See if they have any offers to get the wiring hardness for free.

Do it right the first time

 

I used an electric fan from a chevy lumina van at the junkyard. Cost me 10 bucks. 89 dollars for a fan is too much in my opinion. Get an onn-off flip DC switch at the auto parts store and put it under the dash

 

ok have been looking around an i was told i should get a fan with at lest 2,500 CFM an summit only shows 1,250 cfm, for the 307 and turbo flex shows 3,000 CFM i don't mind paying 70buks for the hole thing but i would like to get the right 1.

 

I have never heard with certainty what CFM should be used when purchasing an electric fan. Oldsguy and I bought a dual electric puller fan from the slavage yard like J did. We got it off of an early 80s Ford truck. We wired it up to his 69 Delta with a 455 and it worked great. It never overheated. We were also able to wire an electric switch in series with the fans that shut them on and off based on the temperature.

 

And in parrallell to the thermostat control switch.

 

I used dual electric fans from a porsche 911- got a control module ( temp wire) and set that in my be cool alum radiator....

some set the control (switch) either manual - not good becouse if you forget to turn on your fans then bye bye engine,
or
they set then up to run all the time- bad becouse your eng will run to cold
or some set it with a control to the block/ or radiator- best options

 

I am absolutely paranoid when it comes to keeping my engine cool, because I've had so many overheating issues. I now have a dual Spal Fan with 30 amp fan relays connected to a temperature probe installed in my 4 core aluminum radiator. I also have a fan override switch installed in my console so that I can kick on the fans when I'm idling in traffic.

 

i think paraniod is the word... I think the relays are fine... when you are sitting in traffic they should come on/ and off controled by the temp in the raditor.. if you override it then I would say you would be running to cold sometimes.

 

I agree. There are millions of cars on the road today with automatically controlled electric fans.

 

Joe Padavano wrote:
I agree. There are millions of cars on the road today with automatically controlled electric fans. Today 10:45 AM

Yes , I agree with the above statement to a certain degree, however, making a blanket statement like that without knowing about my particular situation and overheating problems with my car devalues what I stated in my thread. I have a 195 degree thermostat, the twin spal fans are set to cycle on when the radiator reaches that temperature. They do not cycle continuously. When I am in low speed traffic my temp guages have a tendency to creep up to over 210 degrees without the fans kicking on. I use the manual fan switch to bring the temperature down, until I am at highway speed and have sufficient air flow to bring the engine temperature down. If this is inconsistent with your experience or knowledge than I guess we will have to agree to disagree.

 

On my old 78 Malibu I used the stock fans and shroud off a 93-97 LT1 F-body. Wired to relays and a ground temp switch in the head with a manual override for cooling in the pits. Motor cooled great and was a pretty warmed over 383.

 

I would check your temp system- if your fans are not kicking on when there are to and creeping to 210..then thats the problem..
-further if you have to manually override your system then you can be running to cold as prevously stated..

This is just me... But I would not want to drive a car were I had to check the temp gauge every ten min to make sure I dont overheat..
I guess with your experinces we will have agree to disagree.

 

well i am going to go to the yard an buy 1 off a truck. an the relay an all i will get from a auto store. ty for all your help guys will ask if i have any prob {:

 

I'll second that. If the fans are not coming on when the temp gauge is at 210, then the sender that you're using to control the fans is in the wrong place (or the temp gauge is wrong). That's not the fault of the fans nor the control sensor. Sorry, but there isn't a lot of science in this control circuit. Temp of the coolant exceeds the sensor set temperature and the fans go on. If they don't (and the sensor is functioning) then there's an installation problem. Having said that, there's nothing wrong with having a manual override, but as noted above that should be for special cases like cooling down in the pits. In normal use it should not be required.

 

Joe,

Thank you for your most recent response, your initial response wasn't very helpful. My water temperature sending unit is installed in the front of my manifold and my fan sending unit is installed in the lower right side of my radiator. I use a Robert Shaw thermostat 195 degree, and I have a flow cooler aluminum high flow water pump. My fan, alternator and Crank pulleys are stock size, and are billet aluminum. I do not use a fan shroud, other than what is integrated into the Spal Fans which I believe are rated at 3200 cfm. My radiator cap I believe is either 15 or 17 lb., I can't remember for sure. My response wasn't meant to provoke anyone but the reality of my situation is my car runs cool as long as I'm not idling in heavy traffic, when that situation arises, I flip on the manual fan switch and I'm good to go. If I have something installed wrong, I'm willing to look at that, or if a part isn't working I will replace it.

 

BINGO!

The fan sensor needs to be in the water crossover in the manifold also. The radiator will always be cooler than the block, and the bottom of the radiator is cooler than the top. Keep in mind that the coolant flows out of the motor from the T-stat housing, through the upper hose, to the top of the radiator. It cools in the radiator and flows back through the bottom hose into the pump.

Does you manifold only have one sensor bung? If so, you can get an aftermarket fitting that goes in the upper radiator hose and has a threaded bung for the fan sensor. Not ideal, but much better than in the bottom of the radiator.

 

Thank you for your help! Any thoughts on the Spal programmable fan control?

 

Seems like a bunch of money. While I'm sure it's a good product, I'm a cheap SOB. What does it do that this $35 temp sensor kit doesn't do?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr.+Gasket/763733/10002/-1



Also, I've used this mechanical temp sensor (for only $30) and it works fine. Note that the temp sensing bulb slips under the radiator hose end so it's in the flow. The small black plastic piece with the groove seals it when you tighten the hose clamp. This way you don't need the extra threaded bung in the intake manifold.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Flex-a-lite/751522/10002/-1

 

bingo-was-he's name-o
joe's rite,
set up that sensor to the top of the radiator- not the bottom. (or to the block)
As far a the sensor products -dont spent $ on a brand name.. there all to do the same job... Mine is a universal unit that i bought from pep boys for $15.
its the same thought i have when i re-wired my car..
should I go with painless($$$$) or ez wiring($) ..there just a bunch of wires and regulaters that can be cut/replaced/fabricated.. they do the same job, in cases like this your not buying a product your buying a name..

 

would this be good?



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

 

Yes, however first you need to be sure your intake has an extra threaded bung in the coolant passage. If not, you'll have no place to install the sender. You cannot simply install a tee, since the sender needs to be in flowing coolant. The ends of the tee would be dead ends with no flow and thus the temp would not be accurate.