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What model year & engine is this? I could guess - but, I won't. Currently #1 in your image is non-functional if it has no vacuum hose hooked to the top (as depicted in your image). Therefore, the electrical connection can be removed. Can't see how the vacuum hoses are being routed on the side of the transmission controlled spark device from you image, none-the-less it's non-functional w/ no vacuum hose connected on the top. The image below is ONLY an example - since we don't know your model year & engine. Therefore, use w/ caution. These devices are all contained/specified and labeled in the CSM.
Oh yes, sorry, the engine is from 1971 oldsmobile cutlass supreme, 350 cu in (5.7 L).
As the #1 is non-functional would it be ok to take it off and replace it with some sort of a plug if I manage to find one?
As stated (Jesse) there really shouldn't be any question regarding the benefits of the CSM. Purchase a used original paperback 1971 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual. It is your bible - absolutely nothing comes close to delivering the information you require in addition it includes the original color wiring diagram/schematic.
Yes, it is fine to remove #1 (Distributor Vacuum Control Switch/Transmission Controlled Spark) & plug the hole with a standard water pipe fitting. You can then remove the wiring to the DVCS - most just wind it up, tie it off near the firewall (could be the chance "someone" may want make use of it). You'll need to route your vacuum hoses appropriately. I have a thread on the routing for a DVCS delete. I'll have to search for it. The fitting is a standard water pipe fitting.
The following images should get you through the correct vacuum hose routing for a 1971 350cid Rochester 4bbl carburetor with A/C after deleting the DVCS. As noted in my image(s) below, there are two ports on the back of the Rochester 4bbl carburetor - the topmost port is for the stove choke pipe filtered air source (rear right hand [passenger] side of carburetor) - nothing changes to this filtered air source. The rear left hand driver side of the carburetor needs to be capped as it will no longer be attached to the top of the deleted DVCS. Note also the one port is capped on the front of the carburetor (see images).
I forgot an image. This image simply notes the location of the LH PCV hose connection to the front of the carburetor. I don't use a LH RH PCV connection. None-the-less, this image simply demonstrates location of the LH PVC hose location. It also demonstrates location of the choke pull-off vacuum hose which you do not change.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Jun 28, 2023 at 01:38 PM.
Reason: I don't use a "RH" PCV connection (error)
Thank you for the pictures! I think the previous owner of my car has done the vacuum hose routing but for some reason left the #1 in place. I found a fitting standard water pipe plug from a local hardware store and replaced #1 with it!
I also ordered the CSM + factory service manual from rockauto! Now that I see how clean the engine on your pictures is, I think I'll have to clean mine too. Some parts visible on your pictures are not even visible on mine as it is so dirty :-)
I had recently replaced a leaking intake manifold gasket (2018) so I took the opportunity to repaint the intake manifold while I had it removed from the engine, repaint the valve covers, degrease the engine, delete the DVCS, install new vacuum hoses, fuel intake line, etc. so it was pretty clean when I took the pictures.
Ah alright! I was thinking about degreasing the engine by hand myself without using a pressure washer.
Local car washes offer a engine wash but they do not cover anything if something breaks.
You can perform a fairly decent engine wash w/ a local car wash I suspect - remove the air cleaner housing, cover the carburetor w/ Saran Wrap & cover several of the electrical components (distributor comes to mind). The engine can handle a fair amount of water just be mindful where you aim the nozzle. Your best bet is to soak the engine w/ a degreaser then wash off the engine either at home or at the local car wash. Foaming oven cleaner (WalMart) works well for ~$3.00/can or GUNK Engine Degreaser. I washed down the entire engine bay with GUNK - let it soak, brushed it off - may take one or several passes. I did it at home w/ copious amounts of water without using a pressure washer. Takes time - what doesn't.
BTW, after a thorough cleaning it's a good time to spray carburetor linkages & entire carburetor with a good carburetor/choke cleaner. Consider applying a light coating of water repellent grease at certain key points in the throttle assembly. I like to use a 0.50 cent brush dipped into some water repellent grease and apply small dabs onto select moving linkages - good maintenance areas.
BTW, after a thorough cleaning it's a good time to spray carburetor linkages & entire carburetor with a good carburetor/choke cleaner. Consider applying a light coating of water repellent grease at certain key points in the throttle assembly. I like to use a 0.50 cent brush dipped into some water repellent grease and apply small dabs onto select moving linkages - good maintenance areas.
I wouldn't grease those components. Grease attracts dirt and grit, and the engine is a pretty dirty place. Dirt and grit produces lots of wear. From the factory most of these parts had ball socket or nylon bushings to prevent significant wear on high friction connections.
