For those of you with the Petronix
For those of you with the Petronix
I got the ignitor III and am in the process of installing. I need clarification:
Do I continue to use the condenser that came with the original coil (I am replacing it with the Flamethrower).?
Do I unhook the R wire that goes from the solenoid to the + side of the original coil? Basically, do I remove it completely and not use it with the aftermarket coil/breakerless points?
Thanks
d1
Do I continue to use the condenser that came with the original coil (I am replacing it with the Flamethrower).?
Do I unhook the R wire that goes from the solenoid to the + side of the original coil? Basically, do I remove it completely and not use it with the aftermarket coil/breakerless points?
Thanks
d1
Pertronix
The instructions aren't real clear with those, I callled them up and asked some tech guy when I did mine.
They have to have 12 volts at the coil. You disconnect and cap or tape off the resistance wire and get it out of the way and run a 12 volt switched wire. It should be hot when cranking and when the key is on, not accessory or it will burn out the unit if it's energized without the engine running after awhile, same with leaving the ignition on with those. I used a circuit tester and found a wire that met the criteria coming off the ignition switch on the lower column and tapped into that. It was a 10-12 gauge wire I think, stripped back the insulation and twisted the new coil wire around it then soldered it, taped it up real good. You use the same condensor as far as I know, I did on mine.

They have to have 12 volts at the coil. You disconnect and cap or tape off the resistance wire and get it out of the way and run a 12 volt switched wire. It should be hot when cranking and when the key is on, not accessory or it will burn out the unit if it's energized without the engine running after awhile, same with leaving the ignition on with those. I used a circuit tester and found a wire that met the criteria coming off the ignition switch on the lower column and tapped into that. It was a 10-12 gauge wire I think, stripped back the insulation and twisted the new coil wire around it then soldered it, taped it up real good. You use the same condensor as far as I know, I did on mine.
The instructions aren't real clear with those, I callled them up and asked some tech guy when I did mine.
They have to have 12 volts at the coil. You disconnect and cap or tape off the resistance wire and get it out of the way and run a 12 volt switched wire. It should be hot when cranking and when the key is on, not accessory or it will burn out the unit if it's energized without the engine running after awhile, same with leaving the ignition on with those. I used a circuit tester and found a wire that met the criteria coming off the ignition switch on the lower column and tapped into that. It was a 10-12 gauge wire I think, stripped back the insulation and twisted the new coil wire around it then soldered it, taped it up real good. You use the same condensor as far as I know, I did on mine.

They have to have 12 volts at the coil. You disconnect and cap or tape off the resistance wire and get it out of the way and run a 12 volt switched wire. It should be hot when cranking and when the key is on, not accessory or it will burn out the unit if it's energized without the engine running after awhile, same with leaving the ignition on with those. I used a circuit tester and found a wire that met the criteria coming off the ignition switch on the lower column and tapped into that. It was a 10-12 gauge wire I think, stripped back the insulation and twisted the new coil wire around it then soldered it, taped it up real good. You use the same condensor as far as I know, I did on mine.
At least you got a hold of someone from the tech dept. I kept getting sent to their voice mail.

I will cap off the resistance wire. On mine, though, the resistance wire is soldered together with another black wire. I am not sure where this black wire originates though. It might be a 12 volt wire that you were talking about. I suppose I could run or move the resistance wire over to the S on the solenoid (I think that would accomplish the same thing??) But I need to find out what the black wire does first...
I hate wiring, it gives me a headache.
Thanks for the help.
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