Starting Electrical Problem
#1
Starting Electrical Problem
What occurred? (61 starfire 394)
Went to start car and it cranked good for about 30 sec, then slowly got to a point where everything went dead. Idiot, Interior, exterior lights, pwr windows, horn will not operate, and upon returning key to off position and trying to start the engine again – this time not even a sound or click and still no idiot, int/ext lights or power anything.
Batter is new and was on a battery tender – checked volts and it was 13vdc.
Day two:
I went to start the car to test and the head lights all worked, int/ext lighting all normal pwr windows were fine, etc. Threw key in ignition turned to run and I got a quick click and all the same symptoms as described under “what occurred”.
I suspect the starting circuit (solenoid, or some type of relay) but I do not understand how that would affect the other electrical stuff in the car.
I know the battery + goes to a horn relay on the drivers inside fender and right behind that on the fire wall is a small black oblong unit and I am not referring to the volt regulator any ideas on quick testing?
The starting resistor has connectivity and that is by-passed when starting so I am ruling that out.
The neutral safety switch is ruled out because I did get it to crank initially?
Thanks for any help in advance,
Ben
Went to start car and it cranked good for about 30 sec, then slowly got to a point where everything went dead. Idiot, Interior, exterior lights, pwr windows, horn will not operate, and upon returning key to off position and trying to start the engine again – this time not even a sound or click and still no idiot, int/ext lights or power anything.
Batter is new and was on a battery tender – checked volts and it was 13vdc.
Day two:
I went to start the car to test and the head lights all worked, int/ext lighting all normal pwr windows were fine, etc. Threw key in ignition turned to run and I got a quick click and all the same symptoms as described under “what occurred”.
I suspect the starting circuit (solenoid, or some type of relay) but I do not understand how that would affect the other electrical stuff in the car.
I know the battery + goes to a horn relay on the drivers inside fender and right behind that on the fire wall is a small black oblong unit and I am not referring to the volt regulator any ideas on quick testing?
The starting resistor has connectivity and that is by-passed when starting so I am ruling that out.
The neutral safety switch is ruled out because I did get it to crank initially?
Thanks for any help in advance,
Ben
#4
I will try to check all the grounds. I am thinking that this may be causing me some grief. I checked out the starter and starting circuit some what and feel that it is good. The other electrical issues are still there so I may have to look for a loose ground to the frame, body, engine, etc. However the one to the engine is solid, perhaps the body or frame ground is what is causing the crazy electrical problems???
Thanks
Thanks
#5
Here is what I discovered - an electrical short in the drivers pwr seat circuit.
There is a small electric silver box located behind the drivers side left foot kick plate and it was in very bad shape. Why it decided to give up the ghost i'll never know but it made for an interesting weekend.
I do not really need the pwr seat to work since I keep it all the way back but I would like to locate a new unit. Not sure what it does but. The original is beyond repair.
All that is stamped on the unit is "high mat" or "high max" and it only has 3 leads "red" "blue" and "white". the blue is hot, the red goes to the seat motor, and the white goes to the fuse block.
Any one know where I can get a part number for this unit?
Help.
There is a small electric silver box located behind the drivers side left foot kick plate and it was in very bad shape. Why it decided to give up the ghost i'll never know but it made for an interesting weekend.
I do not really need the pwr seat to work since I keep it all the way back but I would like to locate a new unit. Not sure what it does but. The original is beyond repair.
All that is stamped on the unit is "high mat" or "high max" and it only has 3 leads "red" "blue" and "white". the blue is hot, the red goes to the seat motor, and the white goes to the fuse block.
Any one know where I can get a part number for this unit?
Help.
#6
no juice
sounds a lot like an old internally corroded cable (gains resistance with heat), and/or a dirty connector, likely on the main lead from the battery to the main terminal, or could even be on the ground
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