1971 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS S 5.7L 350cid V8 OHV : Electrical : Starter Motor WikiPriceCoreTotalREMY Part # 25253 Remanufactured
Field Tab Connects to Solenoid without spacer
$48.79$10.00$58.79Add to Cart ACDELCO Part # 3361819 {#19136128, 88863061} Reman
DELCO 10MT; 1.3 KW
$44.79$15.00$59.79Add to Cart REMY Part # 25275 Remanufactured
Field Tab Connects to Solenoid with 1-in. Copper spacer
Looking to replace the starter on my '71 C/S 350. How do I know if I need the one w/ the 1" copper spacer for the field tab?

 

If I remember correctly, starters with the spacer had larger coils which implied heavier duty. Can anyone confirm this?

 

Take out your old one and have a look.

 

Those with the extension are known as 'high torque' starters. If you have the choice go with the extension.

 

I was trying to reduce the times that I might drop it on my face before pulling it! I did not want to pull it twice as I will probably be at a car show this weekend, and don't think Rock Auto would get it here in time. The brushes may be worn as it's starting to sound like an old mopar starter when cranking. The bad is I had it rebuilt 2 years ago (less than 1500 mi). He will no longer get my business.

 

Understandable. Didn't know there was a time issue. Chances are that your car has the starter without the spacer from factory. Both should be a direct bolt in though. Trip makes a good point - not bad to upgrade since the price is really reasonable. I seriously doubt you'll need a high torque unit though.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I will order one today.

 

You are correct.

 

Not necessarily so. If you are only refering to the older style starter case, this would be true. The older style is pictured in the lower portion of the starter pics above. Notice the short narrow area of the case where the field lead comes out of the starter. Compare it to the pics of the starter in the upper portion of the pics. You will see a longer narrow area here. The narrow case or newer type will always have a long extension to the solenoid and it may be either low or high torque. On this type you will need to look for 1 or 2 leads coming out of the starter. 1 being low torque with smaller fields and smaller armature than the 2 lead type. This will only apply if the starter is original and not necessarily so if it is an aftermarket or reman unit. The long narrow cases will not have a threaded hole for a brace or shield when a correct olds older style will. When I get some time I will try to post some pics to show what I mean if there is interest for me to do so. Mark

 

[QUOTE=1969w3155;317432]I was trying to reduce the times that I might drop it on my face before pulling it!
Maybe I'm a wuss, but I took a flat piece of metal about 4" square, bent the last inch on both sides at a 45 degree angle, to fit the body of a starter, Then bent four small tabs downward to fit over the cup of one of those very small floor style jacks. It smoothly raises and lowers the starter making it very easy to make connections and start bolts. No more resting it on my chest.