Start up problems on 68 442
#1
Start up problems on 68 442
Hey guys, this is probably a simple diagnosis for you all, but I’m a newbie.
I drove my car 20 minutes so it was well warmed up. Stopped for gas, turned off engine, when I tried to start it up, it will turn over like a half turn. When I jumped the battery it started right up.
I changed the starter last year, the battery is two years old and shows 12 volts on a meter after I got home. The alternator is unknown how old it is. Does this sound like what happens when an alternator goes bad? Thanks for the help. —Billy
I drove my car 20 minutes so it was well warmed up. Stopped for gas, turned off engine, when I tried to start it up, it will turn over like a half turn. When I jumped the battery it started right up.
I changed the starter last year, the battery is two years old and shows 12 volts on a meter after I got home. The alternator is unknown how old it is. Does this sound like what happens when an alternator goes bad? Thanks for the help. —Billy
#4
The most noticeable is the headlights dim and your voltage drops below 12V. When the battery voltages gets low enough it will no longer be enough to charge the coil and the engine will stall. If headlights aren't on, and the voltage is low enough, as soon as you turn the headlights on the engine will stall.
The easiest way to test it is to put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with the engine running and see what the voltage is (without the jump pack on). If you recently charged the battery you can actually watch the voltage drop if the alternator isn't putting anything out
The easiest way to test it is to put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with the engine running and see what the voltage is (without the jump pack on). If you recently charged the battery you can actually watch the voltage drop if the alternator isn't putting anything out
Last edited by allyolds68; April 21st, 2021 at 08:56 AM.
#5
At 12v, your battery is dead. I would start with giving the battery a good charge and cleaning the battery terminals and cable ends. With the engine running measure the voltage at the battery, should be around 14+/- volts. A fully charged battery is 12.6v, the .6 is very important.
#6
At 12v, your battery is dead. I would start with giving the battery a good charge and cleaning the battery terminals and cable ends. With the engine running measure the voltage at the battery, should be around 14+/- volts. A fully charged battery is 12.6v, the .6 is very important.
#8
At 8 volts, your very close to the point where the computer will stop working. Simply hitting the brakes might be enough to drop system voltage to the point the ECM shuts down.
Clean the battery terminals, clean the battery posts. Put a trickle charger on the battery overnight. Reinstall the cables, put a meter on the battery terminals. Start the engine, with the engine running you should have a system voltage around 14.2ish. Turn on the headlights, heater fan on high, wipers, anything electrical. The voltage might drop a little, but still be around 13.5 or better. If not, the charging system needs some work.
Clean the battery terminals, clean the battery posts. Put a trickle charger on the battery overnight. Reinstall the cables, put a meter on the battery terminals. Start the engine, with the engine running you should have a system voltage around 14.2ish. Turn on the headlights, heater fan on high, wipers, anything electrical. The voltage might drop a little, but still be around 13.5 or better. If not, the charging system needs some work.
#9
Start the engine, with the engine running you should have a system voltage around 14.2ish. Turn on the headlights, heater fan on high, wipers, anything electrical. The voltage might drop a little, but still be around 13.5 or better. If not, the charging system needs some work.
#12
Read above^^^. You must have between 14.0 to 14.9 volts when the engine is running. Your alternator is NOT charging your battery.
#14
Not really. It's more likely that it's the alternator. A crap battery will still read 14V+ if the alternator is working
Last edited by allyolds68; April 21st, 2021 at 11:08 AM.
#15
#16
Valid point. I was suspecting he had already (at least) cleaned the battery terminal ends. You should ensure you have solid (-) & solid (+) battery terminal wire ends on both ends of each battery terminal wire. I still suspect it's the alternator, but now would be an excellent time to clean your terminals. While you're at the automotive parts store, grab a battery terminal cleaner for $6 or $7 - they work excellent.
#17
What may also be possible is the plug is disconnected from the side of the alternator. I had that happen to me more than one time over the years.
#19
Possibly, and in combination with a faulty charging system is a recipe for no charge/no start. Could be alternator, voltage regulator, cables, or battery.
Right now I'm leaning toward a bad alternator, with a bad battery cable or terminal next.
Noob Billy, do you know how to use a volt-ohm-amps meter? You can diagnose most electrical problems with it and save your car the indignity of a parts jockey who is questionably familiar with an older car's needs. We can show you the basics of using it.
Can't emphasize this enough. Get your own original printing hard copy of the 1968 Olds Chassis Service Manual. It has color wiring diagrams and covers about any service procedure you or anyone you hire to work on this car could need. You have to remember that most modern mechanics won't have a clue how to service a 50+ year old car.
Right now I'm leaning toward a bad alternator, with a bad battery cable or terminal next.
Noob Billy, do you know how to use a volt-ohm-amps meter? You can diagnose most electrical problems with it and save your car the indignity of a parts jockey who is questionably familiar with an older car's needs. We can show you the basics of using it.
Can't emphasize this enough. Get your own original printing hard copy of the 1968 Olds Chassis Service Manual. It has color wiring diagrams and covers about any service procedure you or anyone you hire to work on this car could need. You have to remember that most modern mechanics won't have a clue how to service a 50+ year old car.
Last edited by rocketraider; April 21st, 2021 at 04:04 PM.
#20
After you have cleaned all the small and large connections at the starter, the battery, the VR and Alt whack the alternator with a dead blow or a piece of wood. Not too hard but just enough to unseat a possibly stuck brush. If it comes to life yank it and have it rebuilt by a local reputable starter-alternator shop. Check the alternator connections and ground on the VR.
I always recommend rebuilding components and staying away from the big box parts houses... especially if its original to the car or even close.
Also before replacing anything have the battery load tested after you manually charge it.
A static battery should sit at ~12.4-12.6VDC ish if its good. And it should take a load test without falling on its ***.
This tester not only load tests it also gives alternator output data: Good tool to have.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
I always recommend rebuilding components and staying away from the big box parts houses... especially if its original to the car or even close.
Also before replacing anything have the battery load tested after you manually charge it.
A static battery should sit at ~12.4-12.6VDC ish if its good. And it should take a load test without falling on its ***.
This tester not only load tests it also gives alternator output data: Good tool to have.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
#22
#23
Take your DMM (or DVM whatever you want to call it), put it the mode to read DC VOLTS. Connect your test leads to the meter, touch the other end of the black lead to the engine block or other chassis ground or NEG battery terminal, touch the red lead to either the battery POS terminal or the heavy red wire on the alternator (they both read the same voltage). With the engine OFF, a heathy battery will read MORE than 12V. With the engine running, a good alternator will read MORE than 14V, but it will definitely be higher than with the engine OFF. If the voltage does not increase when the engine is running, you have a weak or bad alternator. Its highly doubtful that a 2-y/o battery has gone bad unless you live where it is blazing hot all the time.
#24
Unfortunately that ^^^ procedure does not test the functionality of the alternator it only tests whether voltage is being delivered to the battery. There are numerous YouTube videos available for testing an alternator. I have already suggested you take the car to an automotive parts store to make short order of having your alternator tested for free. Nothing could be simpler, IMO.
#25
Old method that we used to quick test an alternator, with engine running pull battery terminal, if engine stops, problem is with the alternator or the connections to it. Working alternator will also create a magnetic field on the back side and can be tested with a screwdriver.
#26
#27
Old method that we used to quick test an alternator, with engine running pull battery terminal, if engine stops, problem is with the alternator or the connections to it. Working alternator will also create a magnetic field on the back side and can be tested with a screwdriver.
Dont ever remove battery cables while the engine is running!! That’s a useless test, an ignition system only needs a couple amps of current to run. Obviously, a alternator that is capable of only a couple amps of output isn’t acceptable.
The screwdriver on the back of the alternator is a ok test if you have no tools.
A voltmeter is such a cheap piece of test equipment, there is really no excuse to not have one. A 10 dollar meter from harbor freight would tell you what you need to know.
#28
Unfortunately that ^^^ procedure does not test the functionality of the alternator it only tests whether voltage is being delivered to the battery. There are numerous YouTube videos available for testing an alternator. I have already suggested you take the car to an automotive parts store to make short order of having your alternator tested for free. Nothing could be simpler, IMO.
#29
There are only so many failure modes in an alternator. Either 1 or more diodes are bad (shorted or open), or brushes are shot. Failure symptoms of the various failure modes range from weak output to no output. You cannot deny that if the voltage across the battery does NOT increase when the engine is running (vs. engine OFF) points to the majority of the failure modes that are sufficient to result in a battery not receiving enough charging current when the engine is running. Certainly, obtaining a definitive test of the alternator at Auto Zone (or equivalent) is simple and easy, but the test I described is definitive: If the volts don't go up, the alternator is shot. Where else can that current come from to increase the voltage across the battery?
#30
Indeed, and yet the OP was still asking questions about how to test the alternator without going to Auto Zone. Excuse me for trying to help explain it in simpler terms, Chief.
#31
No worries. We’ve explained it numerous times. My point was in relation to your statement, however. You can measure 14+ V at the battery and still have a bad alternator if the alternator is not delivering amps.
#32
Thanks for all your helpful comments. I tried to have my local Autozone test my alternator and they refused, saying they were too understaffed to send some one outside the store to me.
The thing that I could not understand was why I could not read any voltage on the output + on a brand new alternator. No one has answered that question.
I had a friend who is a long time mechanic come over to look at it. He traced out all my wiring and traced the wire from the alternator that should go direct (or thru a junction block) to the positive on the battery. It didn’t go direct. It was routing thru a wheel well mounted solenoid. So voltage was not getting to the battery - it was terminated on the starter side. It’s been corrected and is now working perfectly. The battery is showing the proper 12.6 volts off and 14 ish running.
How did the incorrect wiring happen? Last November before putting the car away for the winter, I got stuck with a shorted out solenoid at a car show. In haste I acquired another and had a few car show people help me change it. They must have put the wire on the wrong side of the solenoid. So I guess I’ve been running off the battery for the few times I took the car out over winter and now into the spring.
So though my problem is not the alternator, I still wanted to know why I wasn’t reading voltage out of the alternator even when it wasn’t connected back to the battery. The way I’m understanding it now in simple terms is that the alternator won’t out put voltage if the internal regulator detects no load or an open circuit. As soon as I connected the alternator to the battery directly, it showed voltage at the alternator terminal. —Billy
The thing that I could not understand was why I could not read any voltage on the output + on a brand new alternator. No one has answered that question.
I had a friend who is a long time mechanic come over to look at it. He traced out all my wiring and traced the wire from the alternator that should go direct (or thru a junction block) to the positive on the battery. It didn’t go direct. It was routing thru a wheel well mounted solenoid. So voltage was not getting to the battery - it was terminated on the starter side. It’s been corrected and is now working perfectly. The battery is showing the proper 12.6 volts off and 14 ish running.
How did the incorrect wiring happen? Last November before putting the car away for the winter, I got stuck with a shorted out solenoid at a car show. In haste I acquired another and had a few car show people help me change it. They must have put the wire on the wrong side of the solenoid. So I guess I’ve been running off the battery for the few times I took the car out over winter and now into the spring.
So though my problem is not the alternator, I still wanted to know why I wasn’t reading voltage out of the alternator even when it wasn’t connected back to the battery. The way I’m understanding it now in simple terms is that the alternator won’t out put voltage if the internal regulator detects no load or an open circuit. As soon as I connected the alternator to the battery directly, it showed voltage at the alternator terminal. —Billy
#33
Dont ever remove battery cables while the engine is running!! That’s a useless test, an ignition system only needs a couple amps of current to run. Obviously, a alternator that is capable of only a couple amps of output isn’t acceptable.
The screwdriver on the back of the alternator is a ok test if you have no tools.
A voltmeter is such a cheap piece of test equipment, there is really no excuse to not have one. A 10 dollar meter from harbor freight would tell you what you need to know.
The screwdriver on the back of the alternator is a ok test if you have no tools.
A voltmeter is such a cheap piece of test equipment, there is really no excuse to not have one. A 10 dollar meter from harbor freight would tell you what you need to know.
#34
Ok smart ***. How many different links do I need to share before it sinks in?? This isn’t an Edsel the OP is working on.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/proje...an-alternator/
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...car-is-running
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/testing-alternator-by-removing-battery-cable/
If this isn’t enough to convince you your testing methods are out of date, less than conclusive, dangerous and potentially expensive to repair, do a little research on your own and broaden your horizons.
if you have been turning wrenches for forty years, then you should have learned long ago that NOBODY knows everything. Only an arrogant *** would assume they know everything, and are unwilling to accept that maybe someone knows just a little more about whatever the subject might be.
I guess my 35 years of turning wrenches pales in comparison to your 40. I hang my head in shame.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/proje...an-alternator/
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...car-is-running
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/testing-alternator-by-removing-battery-cable/
If this isn’t enough to convince you your testing methods are out of date, less than conclusive, dangerous and potentially expensive to repair, do a little research on your own and broaden your horizons.
if you have been turning wrenches for forty years, then you should have learned long ago that NOBODY knows everything. Only an arrogant *** would assume they know everything, and are unwilling to accept that maybe someone knows just a little more about whatever the subject might be.
I guess my 35 years of turning wrenches pales in comparison to your 40. I hang my head in shame.
#36
The alternator should be connected to the horn relay junction power strip with a spliced wire to the voltage regulator. There should also be a wire that runs to the battery and the bulkhead connector that has a fusible link on the end. What sounds like happened is the connection at the horn relay terminals was corroded and not allowing the alternator to charge the battery.
#37
Ok smart ***. How many different links do I need to share before it sinks in?? This isn’t an Edsel the OP is working on.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/proje...an-alternator/
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...car-is-running
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/testing-alternator-by-removing-battery-cable/
If this isn’t enough to convince you your testing methods are out of date, less than conclusive, dangerous and potentially expensive to repair, do a little research on your own and broaden your horizons.
if you have been turning wrenches for forty years, then you should have learned long ago that NOBODY knows everything. Only an arrogant *** would assume they know everything, and are unwilling to accept that maybe someone knows just a little more about whatever the subject might be.
I guess my 35 years of turning wrenches pales in comparison to your 40. I hang my head in shame.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/proje...an-alternator/
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...car-is-running
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/testing-alternator-by-removing-battery-cable/
If this isn’t enough to convince you your testing methods are out of date, less than conclusive, dangerous and potentially expensive to repair, do a little research on your own and broaden your horizons.
if you have been turning wrenches for forty years, then you should have learned long ago that NOBODY knows everything. Only an arrogant *** would assume they know everything, and are unwilling to accept that maybe someone knows just a little more about whatever the subject might be.
I guess my 35 years of turning wrenches pales in comparison to your 40. I hang my head in shame.
#38
Thanks for all your helpful comments. I tried to have my local Autozone test my alternator and they refused, saying they were too understaffed to send some one outside the store to me.
The thing that I could not understand was why I could not read any voltage on the output + on a brand new alternator. No one has answered that question.
I had a friend who is a long time mechanic come over to look at it. He traced out all my wiring and traced the wire from the alternator that should go direct (or thru a junction block) to the positive on the battery. It didn’t go direct. It was routing thru a wheel well mounted solenoid. So voltage was not getting to the battery - it was terminated on the starter side. It’s been corrected and is now working perfectly. The battery is showing the proper 12.6 volts off and 14 ish running.
How did the incorrect wiring happen? Last November before putting the car away for the winter, I got stuck with a shorted out solenoid at a car show. In haste I acquired another and had a few car show people help me change it. They must have put the wire on the wrong side of the solenoid. So I guess I’ve been running off the battery for the few times I took the car out over winter and now into the spring.
So though my problem is not the alternator, I still wanted to know why I wasn’t reading voltage out of the alternator even when it wasn’t connected back to the battery. The way I’m understanding it now in simple terms is that the alternator won’t out put voltage if the internal regulator detects no load or an open circuit. As soon as I connected the alternator to the battery directly, it showed voltage at the alternator terminal. —Billy
The thing that I could not understand was why I could not read any voltage on the output + on a brand new alternator. No one has answered that question.
I had a friend who is a long time mechanic come over to look at it. He traced out all my wiring and traced the wire from the alternator that should go direct (or thru a junction block) to the positive on the battery. It didn’t go direct. It was routing thru a wheel well mounted solenoid. So voltage was not getting to the battery - it was terminated on the starter side. It’s been corrected and is now working perfectly. The battery is showing the proper 12.6 volts off and 14 ish running.
How did the incorrect wiring happen? Last November before putting the car away for the winter, I got stuck with a shorted out solenoid at a car show. In haste I acquired another and had a few car show people help me change it. They must have put the wire on the wrong side of the solenoid. So I guess I’ve been running off the battery for the few times I took the car out over winter and now into the spring.
So though my problem is not the alternator, I still wanted to know why I wasn’t reading voltage out of the alternator even when it wasn’t connected back to the battery. The way I’m understanding it now in simple terms is that the alternator won’t out put voltage if the internal regulator detects no load or an open circuit. As soon as I connected the alternator to the battery directly, it showed voltage at the alternator terminal. —Billy
#39
Originally Posted by internet article
Your battery does more than just provide electricity. It also shorts AC spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.
Last edited by Fun71; April 26th, 2021 at 03:53 PM.