Thanks to all who responded to my previous post about a slight hesitation in starting. Based on the advice, it seems to me replacing the battery cables and stater (perhaps) is the way to go. My question is this: how difficult is it to replace the starter on a 1972 442 engine? Is this something I could do myself in my garage or does it require a shop setting? Replacement starters are not that expensive, so I am leaning toward replacing the starter and the battery cables all at one shot.

 

Replacing a starter is SUPER easy. The hardest part will be lying on your back under the car while you support the starter above your head once it is loose. If you have a jack, some safety stands, and a rachet set you can replace it yourself.

 

Since you are replacing the starter, go with the heavy duty model if you can find one. From what I remember, the HD one will have four field coils, instead of the standard 2 field and 2 shunt.
This is supposed to eliminate any hot-start issues withthe starter.
Also, make sure you have the wide (4") heat shielding side bracket installed. I think the 455's came with them. The 350 usually got the 1" wide bracket. Often the brackets are discarded when cheap shops change starters as they can be difficult to get on.

 

The biggest problem is that the factory starter weighs about 800 lbs to start with and grows rapidly as you are bench pressing it over your head with one hand while trying to get the bolts started...

 

Same deal trying to install an automatic transmission with your belly.

 

So I'm guessing that's were a beer gut comes in handy?

 

 

As long as he can still fit under the car...

 

For added belly clearance I jack the car way up in front and inhale hard.

 

Wow - must be SOME jack... What kind of equipment was it designed to lift?

 

If you don't have jack stands. find the highest street curb near you house and put the driver side wheels up on the curb and crawl under the car and change the starter. This works best in the rain, as the water can run down your shirt and out the pants leg, helps keep you cool when you get mad taking the starter out and reinstalling. Note: don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start. Changed lots of starters over the years this way. Also works for U-joints

 

800 lbs is no problem for a wiry guy like me; thanks for the tips!

 

I knew we kept you around here for some no good reason citcapp!

 

If you have an extra jack stand, place it just under the starter when removing the bolts, it can rest there while you are positioning it to remove the wires befrore ya stretch the bejeezus out of them. Oh, you will pinch your hand there, but hey, just part of the experience. That's how I learned French! You may also just have your exisiting starter rebuilt to heavy duty specs. I did mine that way, works very well.

 

Since the old one lasted so long, I would have it rebuilt, or at least hang on to it till you are sure the replacement will be satisfactory. The 2 shunt field starter has more power (torque) less speed. Good for big motors.

 

Thanks. Now you made soda come out my nose.

 

Kinda stings, don't it...
At least it wasn't rice - that feels worse...

 

The belly transmission install is a lot easier when it doesn't have 12 quarts of fluid in it.


Starter removal works a lot better with the battery disconnected especially when laying in multiple quarts of trans fluid.

 

Soda and rice is nothin'...
I was eating breakfast and now I have bacon and eggs stuck up in my nose.

 

Verrry funny. I got a great visual on that one!


But seriously, 72442, I agree with you, the cables and the battery and you should be ready to go.

 

You guys left out the most important part-drive the car about 30 miles immediately prior to removing the starter so that it is hot enough to melt the skin on the palm of your hand as you try to lower it. Same goes for the transmission fluid...

 

That sure leaves a warm fuzzy feeling inside of me...