I am removing the Pertronix ignition system from my 56 Olds since it seems to be the source of my recent engine stoppage. My question is can I leave the higher voltage coil that I installed with the Pertronix system or should I change back to the standard coil I had been using ? I am wondering if the higher voltage coil would fry the new points and result in less life expectancy for them. Comments appreciated. Thax Chuck

 

I don’t know the answer to your question but one area/scenario you might/should evaluate is whether your original ignition system/coil used a ballast resistor or not and whether the Pertronix you installed did or did not use a ballast resistor.

 

To further expand on chiefs reply, the resistor lowers the voltage to the points to prolong their life. My understanding is its lowering the car voltage 6v or 12v. So while the coil voltage may be higher output, thats notthe voltage the points see.

im not familier w your model and year so probably follow the OE setup.

 

Norm if I remember correctly the pertronix can be installed with or without a resister. But you bring up a good point about being sure he has the resister installed with the points. I would probably go back to the original coil since I doubt there is any benefit to having the high voltage coil. Another pertronix bites the dust.

 

No, the Pertronix unit itself requires full battery voltage but the coil ballast resistance requirement was based on the resistance of the coil. You will need a ballast resistor or resistance wire to run points off the flame thrower coil.

 

Pertronix units were to use the Pertronix coil. Points units should use the points coil with a balast resistor (unless the original resistor wire is still usable).

 

Just like Eric stated. You need full battery voltage (whatever a 56 uses). A ballast resistor modulates ign coil output under load therefore it should be matched to the ign coil output for the 56. I was just bringing it up as a item you should address. I don’t know the 56 ign coil size or output requirements. I’d go back to OEM coil as Randy suggested though, but I didn’t know if that included a ballast resistor.

 

Thanks for the input, guys. After posting my request late last night, just b/4 I went to bed I remembered more of the details of the working of the system. It’s been about 40+ years since I gave much thought to how the system works. After reviewing the wiring diagram, there is no question that I will have to put back the ballast resistor. My biggest problem will be in getting under the dash and re-attaching a wire from the ignition #1 terminal on the starter switch, and running it to the resistor.

As I see it, after running through the resistor, the voltage is reduced from 12 volts to 9 or less and in case the points are closed, reduces the load through the points. The points only serve to make and break the circuit to the coil, which creates the high voltage leading directly to the distributor cap. So, it appears that the points will be unaffected by the coil output. If you see something wrong in my deductions, please let me know, and thanks again for the input. Chuck

 

Per the attached copy of the pertronix instructions, you will see it can be hooked up with or without a resister. As Eric pointed out the unit needs a full 12 volts but the coil can use the resister.

 

Thanks Glenn, Chuck

 

You are welcome. I had to go dig around in the garage and find the instructions. I am surprised I haven't thrown then and the pertronix units away since they gave me so much grief.

 

One particular coil will not generate any more voltage than another one used on the same engine (assuming the spark plugs, plug gap, A/F ratio, etc are unchanged). The voltage in the secondary windings builds until it achieves a sufficient level to arc across the spark plug gap. That arc-over voltage will be the same with any coil that is used.

 

Thanks for your info Kenneth, it is appreciated. Chuck

 

Should be two coil feed wires, one from starter to give coil 12 volts when cranking and then ignition switch run to ballast resistor

 

Thanks Chris, you are correct. In this case according to the wiring diagram, that is accomplished from two different terminals on the ignition switch. As I mentioned in one of my earlier posts, getting under the dash to add the wire from the starter terminal to the resistor will be my biggest problem. When you are knocking on the door of # 85, the old back doesn't bend quite as easily as it used to. : ) Thanks again Chuck

 

Dang Chuck. At 85 you are still working on your car. Many people at that age are not even driving anymore. My hat is off to you. Good luck on your car.

 

Did you install the Pertronix system in your car? If so, did you leave the ballast resistor still on the firewall and just bypass the resistor as many do. You may not have to go under if the resistor is still there and only replace the bypass wiring. I've done a couple and left the ballast resistor where it was and just jumped around it. Made it easy to go back to points when the Pertronix gave it up..... Tedd

 

At 85 many are on the other side of the grass. Kudos to you.

 

Maybe there is hope for me. I am 75 and going to start on the restoration of a 57 Chevy. I figure it will take me two years. Fortunately I am in good health but I don't know that I will be able to get under the dash in ten years.

 

Thanks guys, well I won't really be 85 until Dec 24, but I appreciate your kind words. I did install the Pertronix myself and removed the resistor when I re-engineered the firewall, couldn't find it after looking where I thought it might be. I'm hoping I just clipped the wire to the resistor and left it in the wiring bundle, now covered with the plastic tubing. I did find the points and condenser and will use those as a backup. New points, condenser and resistor should be here tomorrow. I'll keep you posted, hope to start working on it this weekend. Chuck