Yep, so I shocked myself. I took the 66 out for a quick ride around the block. First time since I owned it. I’m working through some kinks. Anyway, topped of fluids, trans was dry. Started driving the car and my speedometer started to sound like an old wind up hot wheel. I went to give it a little love tap and it shocked me. Now, I’m wondering if the two could be an independent issue, or perhaps one in the same. It will only shock me once the car is up and moving. The faster I go, the harder the shock.

anyone ever experience this? Any ideas?

 

Shockingly no, I've never experienced it. Do you think it might have been stored static electricity as I've never been shocked by 12v?

 

Any chance you're missing a ground strap someplace? I've seen cases where the shift cable became a "ground strap" and basically burned out. I can envision the same failure mode for a speedo cable.

 

Amazing the potential between a chassis and earth ground. Used to do liveshots for tv news. Had a reporter doing log rolling. Fell off, grabbed the mike while in the water, which was at chassis ground. Got a nice shock live on air. He wasn’t the best guy, we enjoyed it.

 

While your description and a 3rd degree burn is something that has happened in the past, an actual shock not so much.

 

Probably, a bad ground as stated.

 

@oldcutlass Lol I see what you did there. Maybe you are on to something. I ripped out all the carpet. I had one arm on the door and the other I touched the tach and bam shock. Felt like getting zapped by a spark plug wire.

@joe_padavano I'm thinking it is a ground issue. My ground wire which is mounted to my alternator bracket reads 12 volts. Super weird. Im showing a ground strap from body to block, I see Body to the negative terminal, and I see negative to alternator bracket.

 

I believe someone hooked up a stray ground wire somewhere. Unfortunately, you don't state where the "ground wire which is mounted to my alternator bracket" originates and it's difficult to follow what you mean by you "see negative to alternator bracket". If you have the OEM alternator and bracket you shouldn't need a ground wire mounted to your alternator bracket. The alternator mounts to a metal (adjustable bracket) and via a bolt to your engine. Those bolts are your alternator ground points & no further grounding is required. Even if your alternator has been swapped the alternator obtains its ground via the alternator attachment bolt(s) when the alternator is mounted and bonded directly to metal (e.g. engine) making any additional ground point unnecessary. I'm curious to know where this alternator ground wire begins & ends.

Completely remove the extra ground wire to alternator bracket. Then, w/ your multi-meter set to Volts place the red lead of the multi-meter on the (-) negative battery terminal and place the black lead from your multi-meter on the alternator casing. You should have no more than 0.20V

You need a ground strap from battery to engine, engine to chassis & chassis to body. You may have a ground strap from battery to chassis and/or body, but that is fine. You don't need an additional ground strap from any other place on the car to your alternator bracket. Somehow you're pushing voltage through a ground wire and specifically to the alternator bracket if you're reading 12V on the alternator bracket where there should be no Voltage (at most 0.20V).

 

Hot Wheels don't wind up, just sayin...

 

@Kensey I'm not even sure what that means, dude...

 

@Vintage Chief Just realized these replies. Although, a few months old I did want to engage. The "ground wire which is mounted to my alternator bracket" is feeding directly from the negative terminal of the battery itself. From what I can tell the ground system looks like this. Negative ground terminal to alternator bracket. Negative terminal to the body near the front headlight (ground strap). Lastly, a ground strap that is on the back of the engine to the body. I do not see a chassis to body ground. I'm thinking it's ok based on what you mentioned above.

Open wires, and shorts. I think this car just needs a rewire. My steering wheel was shocking me due to what appeared to be an open wire where the horn would be. Took the horn assembly out. No longer shocks me. I realized my forearm was draped over the steering wheel while I was touching the tach. So all along it was the horn it appears.

Most recently, I went to start the car and the starter got "stuck" on. Now, if I attempt to connect the positive terminal to the battery it arcs the battery. I removed the starter terminal wire from the "relay" on the wheel well. From there I'm able to reconnect the battery terminal with no issues. Replaced the ignition after this happened. Did not help the situation. This is the update so far. Very much appreciate the pointers.

 

Your starter has either a bad starter drive or solenoid, or its not shimmed properly to allow the starter to pull back.

 

Reminds me of the time Allan [Red goat] measured his battery poles with a metal ruler

 

@oldcutlass Thank you. I'll take it off and have it tested, and go from there. It's only about a month old.

 

@Jamesbo No idea what that even means.

 

There's an old joke in electrical circles about being able to use a screwdriver to measure current: You can estimate the current flow by how bright the screwdriver glows before it melts.

 

Aaah, ok. I see.

 

Or how straight your pubic hair got...