72442455

Hi again all! Been scarce as I’ve been out driving the hell out of her! What an awesome summer of cruising (minus the pandemic crap of course) knocking on 5,000 miles since new clutch! Any ways - driving her home from work yesterday (65 miles one way) stopped at speedway and when I went to start her - I turned the key and got *click* and again turned the key *click* the third time got nothing - 72 convertible - 455 - 4 speed m-20 - so I pushed it a bit and two awesome individuals stepped up and helped push and got her running via push start and got her home - as I was spinning her around in my street she stalled and couldn’t start her again - I pushed her in a spot and checked connections - one of the terminals on the solenoids nut worked it’s way off and the wire was not attached - got a nut and reattached it - figured I had it licked - but still just *click* ... any forums on the best way to be methodical and trouble shoot this rather than throwing parts at it? (I already have another starter I plan on swapping out tomorrow - but I’d rather learn to diagnose and solve the problem then get lucky by throwing parts at it) or any idea what might be the cause? - she was an easy turn key and a quick vroom ! start car prior to this

Sugar Bear

Get a voltmeter, test the battery voltage with the car sitting, then while trying to crank. See if it starts with a jump, if it does test the running/charging voltage across the battery terminals. Post the results.

Good luck!!!

oldcutlass

I'll add to clean the pos and neg battery terminals and cable ends also.

rocketraider

With several of my cars I've found a threat to call the nearest junkyard had AMAZING effects!😀

I think your starter solenoid has failed. But go thru battery voltage checks first. Also check condition of battery cables. Me Custom Cruiser wagon pitched a similar fit last year and found the (probably original) ground cable was futzed up internally. As in green with corrosion.

Fun71

The click sound means the solenoid is being activated, so that part of the circuit is working correctly.

There are several things that could be the issue, such as inadequate voltage/current due to the above suggestions (low battery charge, corroded/loose cable connections, etc).

It could also be the high current contact for the motor windings - the copper gets pitted over time due to contact arcing and a high resistance spot can develop. If that's the case, turning the disc so a fresh area is making contact can resolve the issue.

Since you already know there was an issue with the wiring connection at the solenoid, I would think the issue is related to that. It's seldom that there are 2 or more issues at the same time, so look at the known issue as the source of the problem.

cjsdad

If you have a willing assistant, (spouse, child, neighbor) have them turn the ign key to the start position, with the trans in neutral and brakes on of course. After the starter "clicks", tap it solidly with a hammer or other blunt instrument. If the starter turns, you have a bad solenoid or worn out brushes in the motor. The impact causes them to make brief contact and things work, once! Sometimes twice or more, but it will fail again if this works. As mentioned above, you can turn the contact disc inside the solenoid so it will make better contact. But solenoids are not expensive. If you are gonna take the starter out, why put a worn and possibly defective part back in? I have rescued many cars on the side of the road with this method by employing the use of a nearby rock. The rescue-ee almost always accepts the rock and takes it with them.

72442455

Thanks all! I will get to it after work today...

matt69olds

If all else fails, get a bigger hammer!

The rock/hammer/tire iron/whatever method works equally well on power windows that have temperamental motors (that ALWAYS fail in the window down position!) fuel pumps, etc. Sometimes a good tap will temporarily get things going again.

72442455

It was the starter solenoid - new starter in and back in business! Thanks all as always for your help!

RetroRanger

Haha when i was a kid i had a watercooled VW that would sporadically not start i kept a 2' iron rod and a hammer in the back so i could easily reach the starter standing in front of the car w the hood open. After about a year or so of that the car just stopped not starting and lived out its useful life w that same starter assembly ....i guess thereby making that a legitimate repair !

Vintage Chief

A VW w/ a water cooled engine. Was the Gulf the first to have water cooled? I had a '68 Super Beetle (air cooled) - rolled it over twice sideways and once end-over in a farmer's hay field. Came back next day, stuck in 3rd, two blown out tires, pushed it over to right-side it, changed the tires, and drove it back to my parents. The roof was completely caved-in about one foot. They asked how I survived. My girlfriend was w/ me we were on a college treasure hunt when a right turn into gravel didn't work so well and we headed down the hay field. The windshield wiper fluid on that car was pressurized via the spare tire. It got great heat when it was moving. Lots of engine fires in those days. Saw one completely catch fire as four occupants departed the car along an Interstate one time in Illinois.

RetroRanger

The mid 70s saw rabbits n jettas w watercooling, this Particular vw was an 85 golf gti tho

Vintage Chief

I forgot about the rabbits & jettas.