Can anyone direct me to a replacement of the attached resistor/capacitor? Dont seem to be getting spark and I'm hoping this is the reason.

72 olds cutlass supreme.

thanks

 

It is a filter capacitor. It serves to improve the longevity of the points in a factory voltage regulator and to retard the EMP pulse from the points opening and closing being heard in your radio’s audio circuit. You can get another, but it is not why you have a lack of spark at your plugs.

Try www.Lectrickimited.com. Check the values on the side of the can. It is rated in microfarads.

 

That is not the reason, it is a filter capacitor. You can buy one from a repro parts house or you can use an ignition condenser and change the plug, they are .3-.5mf. What distributor are you using?

 

That is a radio noise suppression capacitor (1961919). Perhaps the way it's wired may contribute to a no start condition - I don't know. But it's function is radio noise suppression. You can find a slew of them on RockAuto.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/ig...capacitor,7092

 

Specifically addressing replacement for a 1972 cutlass 455 cid RockAuto lists the following. You can pick up at almost any auto parts store.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...capacitor,7092

 

As noted, the condenser on the voltage regulator has nothing to do with starting. More to the point, does "not starting" mean not turning over or not firing? Those are two very different problems with very different potential causes.

 

Thanks. Will start searching the threads on why I'm not getting spark

 

If you can address Joe's question (Post #6) we'd be able to better assist as to where to begin.

EDIT: IOW, does the starter engage the engine & the engine turns over but won't start the vehicle?

 

Sorry, didnt see the other replies. Yes the engine does turn over. It was running briefly but now it does not.

 

In your thread title you state "BB" - do you mean Big Block and are referencing a 455 cid engine?
So, we know the engine needs three things to start and sustain a running condition:
(1) Air (most times there's plenty of this around)
(2) Fuel
(3) Spark/ignition

At this point, at least, we know there is current (amperage) being supplied to the starter to engage the engine, the engine turns over but doesn't start the engine.

With the air cleaner removed from the carburetor, can you see two sold streams of fuel being delivered into the carburetor when the throttle linkage is engaged/pumped? You can perform this either with the car ON attempting to start or with the car OFF - either way.

 

Sorry for the delayed reply.

Yes, I have added a big block from the original 350. I am getting fuel to the carburetor as well as spark to the coil. I do not have spark to the plugs. I have tried several different wires. Please confirm the rotor can only go on one way. Thanks

 

Perhaps Coil wire, cap, rotor or points?

 

Tom,
Original distributor? I've not seen a rotor that can go on wrong.
If there is spark from the coil wire into the distributor cap AND the distributor turns when the engine is cranked AND no spark to the plugs it is probably a bad rotor and/or cap.

Good luck!!!

 

The rotor & distributor cap can only go on one way. The distributor itself can be 180° out, but that's easily fixed. Was the distributor removed? Is there a reason you asked if the rotor can go on only one way? Did you remove the rotor? Again, the rotor & distributor cap can only go on one way.

You indicated you have spark to the ignition coil. Do you have spark from the ignition coil to the top of the distributor along the ignition coil wire? Ensure the ignition coil wire is seated firmly. Examine the top of the distributor cap and the bottom of the distributor cap for the "button". The button is at the bottom of the distributor cap in the center. The ignition coil wire must make contact with the button (top of distributor cap). The rotor tang (center) must be in contact with the button (bottom of distributor cap). Look for pitting, corrosion, bent tang, etc. Look for pitting, corrosion, black charred marks along the end of the piece of metal which contacts each cylinder in its rotation inside the distributor cap. Look for pitting, corrosion, black charred marks on each of the distributor spark plug wire(s) contact points inside the distributor cap. If in doubt, replace the rotor and distributor cap.

Ensure your spark plug wires are in the correct firing order. A little more information would assist also. This thread started with a no start condition you hoped could be addressed replacing a noise suppression capacitor. What happened to make the engine die? When was the last time it was running? Was it sitting? Did it just quit abruptly or a slow death?

 

Sorry, a little late, but I can see the ignition coil in your image. The coil itself looks rather toasty - lots of rust/corrosion. It's possible your ignition coil is toast, as well. If any wires were removed from the ignition coil ensure they're located on the correct post(s) in particular the wire form the distributor is actually attached.

 

Finally got the motor running after replacing the coil and distributor. Next question is what is causing the rough idle? I pulled each wire one by one while running and the idle got worse each time so I don't think it's the wires or plugs(bu I could be wrong). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Hook a vacuum gauge up and see what the needle is doing. Your video is too short and too close to tell anything.

 

I know the videos are short but i'm somewhat limited on the size on what i can post. I have a video of vacuum on port and manifold. I thought maybe the distributor vacuum

switch wasn't working so I connected the port directly to the distributor and the manifold to the tranny line. how would I know if the vacuum switch on the distributor isn't working? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks