I had a question regarding a couple issues Ive experienced with the right side power windows on my 68 Cutlass Supreme 4dr. Since the day I got the car the left front and rear window open fine. They just make a squeek going up and down. The right front and rear windows never worked. I wasnt sure if it was a wiring problem or a problem with the motors. After I installed a triple gauge I was able to watch the voltage to see if it drew any power. The front right window was drawing power and at one point very very slowly rolled down and rolled up (with my assistance) before not drawing any power at all. The rear right window didn't draw any power.

Does this sound like it is an issue with the motors possibly being burned out. If that is the case, how hard would it be to replace myself? Is it as simple as removing the door panels and directly replacing or does everything have to be disassembled. RockAuto offers a set of refurbed motors for $75. I dont mind if they are after market or refurb as long as they work. My Cutlass is my daily driver and only car and it would be nice to have power windows all the way around. Thanks!

These are the motors:
http://cardone.com/English/club/memb...p?PARTNUM=4212

 

i just replaced all 4 motors in a 70 cutlass convert, it was major work! i had 2 take everything out, the tracks and windows, i had the exact same problem but i never put a power meter 2 them, 2 of them went up an ddown slowly, i replaced all 4 now they go up and down super fast almost 2 fast!! i bought rebuilt1s for 115 a piece with no core charge, if you oder them make sure theres no core charge

 

How long did it take you to complete each door?

 

It's not that easy. The motor assembly has a drive wheel that sits on a worm gear which drives the regulators up/down. It is SPRING LOADED so this is something you don't want to mess with if you don't have any experience with it. It is a major job for one person to do (IMO). If you've never taken a power window motor out of a regulator, I'd suggest you take it to a shop to get done. They have the tools, expertise and enough hands to gitrdone. You can certainly help keep the cost down by stripping the door panels and weather seals for easier access.

 

You have to be the little steam engine that could guys?
I know I can.
I put power windows in my Vista Cruiser, no big deal replacing a motor IMO? The regulators wouldn't fit in the front doors with the motors and had to be done afterwards so I know it can be done. The GM engineers provided all the access holes to do the motor on the inside of the door and regulator plate, why would they if you couldn't do it in the car? I had to pre-load the regulator then bolt the geared plate to the the back plate to hold it, installed the regulator then bolted the motor in and took out the temporary nut and bolt. I think if the window is all the way up you should just be able to unbolt and bolt in a new motor? May have to take a little tension off the regulator if it jambs up but if it's all the way up where can it go? Just don't unbolt the regulator from the door or it will swing around from the spring tension without the motor on it. The spring has the most tension when the glass is down and then helps the window up. It can bite you but as long as you bolt it together temporarily after compressing it with the motor off, make sure to bolt it to the plate or before you remove the motor so it doesn't spring up if it's down.
Study the regulator for a minute and it all makes sense.

In other words, just get the motors and you can do it yourself.

 

Usually the right front motor doesn't work because the wires are broken in the door jamb (poor GM design)...that harness comes from above the drivers left knee and goes along the base of the windshield, behind the speaker and heater and then comes down to the right door jamb...this is a separate harness from the others and is available from Brothers Automotive (via American Auto wire)...so check for voltage at the end of the harness and also the switches before you buy anything, it might just be a bad connection along the line... I have done a few pwr conversions and do not remove the motor from the regulator except for the very first one!!!almost lost my finger good thing it was attached