Power to Brake light switch.

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Old May 5th, 2010, 06:39 PM
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Power to Brake light switch.

Ok. I am trying to get things back to functioning in my 72 Olds Cutlass. I'm having an issue with the orange/power wire to my brake light switch. There's occasionally power if I reach up somewhere under the dash and wiggle something. I'm not sure what it is that makes connection but in my factory service manual, it says if there's power at the fuse(Yes there is and fuse is good) but no power at the switch, check for open circuit between fusebox and the brake switch. The orange and white wire are wrapped in tape and head up under the dash where I can't see anything. The harness has never been cut anywhere that I know of and if I wiggle the wires under the dash, I can get power to the switch but then when I press the brake switch, the draw from the lights will lose connection. I checked with a jumper wire to the white wire on the switch and the brake lights work in the bumper so the problem seems to be in the wire between the fusebox and switch. but the wire is not a direct shot.I don't want to be a wuss and just run a hot wire to the brake switch. I want it fixed right but I can't figure out what the magic connection is. It don't show on the wiring diagram. Please help.
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Old May 6th, 2010, 03:19 AM
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The orange wire feeds the hazard flasher and then goes to the stop lamp switch...check the contact inside the plug on the switch to see if it is damaged or corroded...push and pull on the wire (with test light on plug end) to see if there is a break inside the plastic sheath, not common problem but is possible... (page 12-1 A-body schematic)
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Old May 6th, 2010, 03:51 AM
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Ok. I got no power to the hazard flasher either. Must be the connection behind the fusebox. Crap...Why is this car fighting me?
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Old May 6th, 2010, 05:35 AM
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Yep, sounds like it is in or behind the fuse block.
Did you change the fuse even though it looked good? Sometimes the connection inside breaks loose. (Seen that twice.)
Also make sure the fuse clip holds the fuse tight and is clean. If all that is okay, the block will need to be loosened for inspection behind it.

40 years of vibration, heat, cold, and humidity is bad on electrical stuff.
If the car has ever been stored where pool chemicals are stored, you will have tons of electrical probs from corrosion...
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Old May 6th, 2010, 08:09 PM
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Yeah. I check the fuses with a test light. I didn't get to fart with it tonight. Guys night at my buddies but... On the positive side. I got my windshield. Tomorrow it goes in. I got a screaming deal on a real Pilkington tinted windshield with antenna for 68 bucks. Connections are nice.
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Old May 9th, 2010, 05:56 PM
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Ok... Problem appears to have been a bit of corrosion between the fuses and the fuse holder clip. I pulled each fuse and did the dremel/little wire wheel treatment. How frustrating...
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Old May 10th, 2010, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 442_Mustang
Ok... Problem appears to have been a bit of corrosion between the fuses and the fuse holder clip. I pulled each fuse and did the dremel/little wire wheel treatment. How frustrating...
But much better than pulling the fuse block and doing some rewiring.
Bend the clips to where they hold the fuse securely, too, if needed.
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