Hey guys!
Here is my current issue that I have. Passenger side turning signal does not work when I turn the signal on but the light works when lights are turned on. Then when I turn on my high beams driver side low beam goes out, high beams off and both low beam lights are on.

what can be the issue, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

First thing is to make sure all bulbs are good. Both the park/turn bulb and the low beam headlights have two filaments in them. If one or both are burned out you'll have the condition you describe.

Hi beam headlights have only one filament. When you switch to hi beams, the inner headlights light along with the hi beam filament in the outer headlights. Back to low beams, those filaments go out and the outer headlights' low beam filaments light.

If replacing the bulbs doesn't correct the problem, we'll look deeper.

 

X2 check the bulbs first.

 

So my turning light bulb is good, I checked and even put in a new one so it does same thing no turning signal but the light comes one when the lights turn on. The hi/lo beam bulb I havent checked yet, will check later today. But what do you guys think is the issue with turning signal?

 

The 1157 bulb has TWO filaments, one for the parking light circuit and one for the turn signal circuit. There are totally separate wires that control them. The fact that the park lights come on has nothing to do with the turn signals. If the bulb is good, the problem is the socket or the wires to the socket. Use the wiring diagram in the Chassis Service Manual to trace the circuit until you find the problem in the turn signal wire.

 

Do you have and know how to use a test light?

Remove the park/turn bulb and turn the parking lights on. Ground the test light, then touch its probe to one of the wire contacts in the lamp socket. Whichever one lights the test lamp is the park light wire.

Then activate the turn signal with ignition ON and probe the other wire's contact. If the test light flashes, your turn signal wiring is good. If not, use the CSM as Joe says to find where the problem is.

On a wild hair- does the REAR turn signal work? If it doesn't odds are the flasher may be bad. That or turn signal switch itself.

 

One more thing to try. I've seen the tension springs in these sockets get weak or break. Do you feel tension on the bulb? As in do you feel spring tension when you push the bulb inward to remove or install it? Does the spring push the bulb outward once it's in place?

Also- with all lights OFF, make sure the contacts in the socket are clean and no corrosion. A small wire brush or scraper can clean them.

 

If ANY turn signal lamp anywhere on the car flashes, the flasher module is fine.

 

Rear light turns when its on. I will have to do the test with the tester.

 

The tension is not the best, the driver side has better tension in it.

 

Next thing to test is to see if the directionals will light a test light when activated. Also do the 4 ways light the lamp in question?

 

The 4 way does not light up the light in question either.

 

Have you probed the terminals in the socket with a test light to see if it has voltage and flashing?

 

I was not able to get the test light yesterday from the store, I will have to get it tomorrow and do the test on it. Will let you guys know my outcome, thanks for all the help and suggestions.

 

There's two types of test lights. One is a simple probe with a light and is used to check for voltage. The other is self-powered, has a battery, and is used to check for continuity of a circuit. You may see it called a continuity tester.

Both are good to have since they're not terribly expensive, and can help diagnose where your problem is. A multimeter is also a very useful thing to have.

 

If you still need help, a shop is available. See Les at Harris Auto Electric, 25 Hart Dr. #6. If not, send me a PM.

 

Oh wow that is amazing right in my town, appreciate the heads up I will check them out if I cant pin point the issue myself.

 

[QUOTE=rocketraider;1372320]There's two types of test lights. One is a simple probe with a light and is used to check for voltage. The other is self-powered, has a battery, and is used to check for continuity of a circuit. You may see it called a continuity tester.

Both are good to have since they're not terribly expensive, and can help diagnose where your problem is. A multimeter is also a very useful thing to have.[/QUOTE
Appreciate the info I will probably get both of them if they are not terribly expensive.

 

Check Princess Auto for a test probe and multi meter. About $20 for the meter.

 

Hey guys, so life got in the way of it all but now that I got some time, I decided to do one last test before heading out for test light, I turned on the turn signal and started to wiggle around the light bulb and sure enough at some point it turns on and most of the time it turns of as the bulb really lose in there.
So do i have to buy a new light or what can I do to remedy the slack in the bulb and the housing?

 

It is possible to bend the lower contacts in the socket to firm up the connection. If not a new socket with pigtails is also available. Make sure power is off when playing in the socket.

 

Sounds like the tension spring in the socket is weak or corroded.

Short of replacing the lamp housing:

Take the lamp out of the bumper for access. Then cut the wires between lamp and plug so you can push the wire and contact disc out of the socket. Once it's out you'll see the tension spring behind it. Then try to expand the spring a little so it holds tension on the bulb. If that's successful, reassemble, do a proper splice on the wiring and you should be good to go.

You may be able to push the wiring far enough through the rubber seal for access without cutting. Use some type of lubricant on that seal to get the wires to slide thru it.

If the spring is rusty like they usually are, most auto parts stores will have a double contact repair kit. Wires with contacts, insulator disc and a spring. Rob the new spring from it and replace the crusty original. Wires will have to be cut/spliced to do this.

While the wiring is out of the socket, use a socket cleaning wire brush to clean 50 years of grunge out of it. On reassembly use some appropriate grease to retard future corrosion. Super Lube synthetic, red electrical grease or even a light coat of white lithium grease will work.

This ought to get your park/turn lamp working again.

 

Trying to remember if the lamp socket is swaged into the housing those years. If you can get the original socket out wo destroying the housing, a new snap-in socket might work. Just remember it's exposed to road dirt and water.

 

Go get the test lights anyway. If you have old cars, you will need it sooner or later!⚡

 

I am going to try this and will report back on it, hopefully I do not have to replace the housing unit.

 

Do you know of any Canadian parts suppliers for the cutlass parts? Cause I just checked to see how much shipping would be for the housing unit from Fusick and the shipping alone is as much as the unit itself.

 

If it's the rear housing, I should have one, if it's the front housing probably not. There are people in the woods here that have parts for you. Let me know and I will get a phone number for you.

 

Its the front one that I need, if you can get me a phone number that would be great, send it to me in private message.

 

Thank you, I am going to give this one a try without breaking the housing unit as it does have the gunk of 50+ years in it.