graysuper88

Now have my '57 running. I installed a one wire alternator using the armature wire that went from the old generator to the regulator. Seem to work fine until the key got left on for a bit. Now sometimes when I shut the engine off the GEN lamp will stay on with the key in off position. I can tap the regulator and the GEN lamp will go off. Also I am blowing the instrument fuse. I haven't caught it in time to see if the regulator sticking is blowing the fuse . The only other change I made before this was to remove the manual oil gauge I had on for start up and put a new sending unit in. Is there a better way to wire the alternator and still have the GEN lamp work and just remove the regulator altogether? Anyone else made this swap? Thanks to all in advance.

redoldsman

I made this swap on my 54. I ran a heavy gauge (like 10 or 12 gauge from Home Depot) from the alternator to the connection with the end of the positive battery cable where the horn relay is. I have had no problems with it.

graysuper88

Red, did your GEN lamp still work normally? Thanks.

redoldsman

I can't help you on that one since the 54 has an amp gauge. My amp gauge did not appear to be working so I installed an underdash voltmeter. I doubt the gen lamp will work.

stellar

Can you clarify how it is wired now? I am under the impression the reg is still connected as it was when you had a generator on it and the alt has only the wire running from alternator Bat post to regulator A terminal. Is this correct? I am also thinking there are 2 wires at the reg A terminal. The big wire going to the alt and a small wire being the lite wire. Can you confirm or correct my impression? Also a pic of the alt may help. Is there a black rubber plug on the side of the alt covering the connections for a 3 wire alt? Is the B terminal on the regulator still connected as it was for a generator? A pic of the regulator would also help. If it is wired like I think I may be able to give you a simple fix.

graysuper88

Hello Stellar. It is stilled wired as original. I wanted to keep the GEN lamp and saw no problem with using the brown A wire. The only difference I thought in using that wire would be that it would only be hot with the key on verses hot all the time if I went to the battery or some other junction. Is this some how blowing my Instrument fuse? As I was getting it ready for first test drive I left the key on for a few hours, maybe over night, don't remember. Now when I turn it off some times the GEN lamp stays on. I can tap the regulator and the lamp will go off. Think the points burnt and now stick. Thank you for your help.

joe_padavano

If you have a one wire alternator, why do you still have a regulator installed???


Of course, I don't understand the attraction of the one-wire alternator anyway.


FYI, I converted my 1962 from generator to a stock THREE wire alternator. It was extremely easy. Run a heavy gauge wire from the threaded BATT post on the alternator to the terminal post on the horn relay. Connect the field wire on the alternator to the wire that runs to the GEN light. Run a new sense wire from that terminal on the alternator to the horn relay also. Done. Been working fine in my car since 2010.

dream66

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

x2

stellar

I agree that a 3 wire alt is superior, but since you already have a 1 wire try this. It will now become a 2 wire allowing for the lite function. There are a few ways to make an alternator a 1 wire. The most common (which I think you probably have) uses a regulator that will have a lite function. The lite will work like a 3 wire except it will not energize the alt like a 3 wire alternator and the alternator will still act like a 1 wire except the lite will work. Take the wires off the old regulator and connect the wire that was on the A terminal to the wire that was on the B terminal.You can splice them or nut and bolt them together. This will now be a constant hot wire so be sure to insulate the connection. Now take the rubber plug out of the alternator and connect the small lite wire to the alternator regulator terminal marked 1 or R. It may be marked with both 1 and R. This is the terminal closest to the alternator positive post. Done. Turn key to run position and the light should come on. Start the car and the lite should go off. You may need to rev the engine to start the alternator charging, but this is common for the 1 wire alternators. The lite should go off when it starts charging and go off when it is shut off.

graysuper88

Stellar, thank you. You put me on the right track. Bypassing the regulator stopped my INS fuse from blowing but at idle the GEN lamp would still come on and I only had 11.73 volts. Took alt. off and when to shop. He checked and seen that it was cutting itself off at 900 or so rpm. He said it was because it was a big amp alt. 94 amp I think he said. He said a 37 amp was all I needed. I watched as he turned the 37 amp down to 400 rpm on his tester. Bought the 37 amp, installed, problem solved. Put the 94 amp back in my parts pile. Now on to my trans problem. Thanks again.

stellar

I'm glad you got it sorted out, but being you changed the alt I wish you had put in a 3 wire like Joe said. If the 94 amp wouldn't charge at low rpm, I suspect it had a rotor incompatible for the 94 amp stator. It probably had a rotor for a low amp alt in it. Its good to know you have a rebuilder near by. Enjoy the ride.

graysuper88

I forgot to say that I did swap the 1 wire regulator out for the 3 wire that was in the alt. to begin with. Rewired it. Still GEN lamp on at idle. That's when I took it to the rebuilder. Thanks.