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Hello,
I'm from france and i need some help!
I just bought a oldscutlass 1974 with the rocket 350, and i have got this prolbem, i actually have now power at all, no signal, ,no light nothing,
i checked the battery ok then i check if the 12v is goignt to the solenoid ok. when i check the purple wire going out from the solenoid to the ignition key there is nothing.
Did the prupple wire normaly should go directly to the ignition key, and then when you turn the key activate the solenoid?
shouould anyone help me please.
if you have question don't hesitate
thanks to you
a schem to see waht it's look like :
I disconnect the red wire from the relays hte one who is going to the ignition key and connect it directly from the battery and then light and everything inside were working.
First you have to figure out why you do not have power to the inside of the car when you turn the ignition key on. I'm not familiar with the wiring on your car but I believe there is a fusible link on the red wire that feeds the cabin wiring. There is a neutral safety switch inline on the purple wire mounted to the steering column for bench seat cars or in the console for bucket seat cars. It also operates the back up lights. Do your headlights work?
[QUOTE=oldcutlass;1061589]First you have to figure out why you do not have power to the inside of the car when you turn the ignition key on. I'm not familiar with the wiring on your car but I believe there is a fusible link on the red wire that feeds the cabin wiring.
I would say the fusible link wire mentioned above will be where the problem is.
I had the same problem with my 76 several years ago.
[QUOTE=Molasson73;1061559]Hello,
I'm from france and i need some help!
Did the prupple wire normaly should go directly to the ignition key, and then when you turn the key activate the solenoid?
The purple wire appears to go from the starter to the Neutral start - back up light switch, then from the switch to the ignition. Which the picture posted doesn't show the whole wiring page.
Last edited by 76olds; December 12th, 2017 at 03:56 PM.
I don't think its a purple wire problem yet. The pics you posted are too small to make out the wording. I'm assuming the square in the center of the page with the red wires going to it is the horn relay and the top right is the starter/solenoid. It looks like there are 2 fusible links, 1 from the starter to the horn relay and 1 from the horn relay to the bulkhead connector. Ohm those wires and see if they are open.
You are correct Eric, the center of the page is the Horn relay, top right is starter. The purple wire on the soleniod is the top wire with the power battery lead and fusible link wires running together under the purple wire at the starter.
Their are 2 fusible links Yes. From starter to horn relay, then horn relay to fuse panel.
Last edited by 76olds; December 12th, 2017 at 03:49 PM.
i think is dead because the wire looks like that it was hot i can see a hole.
and i can't get that kind of fuse link here in france that's why i would like to replace it by a new one and a new standard fuse. like in new car .
A fuse will not work properly. Your local auto parts should be able to get fusible link wire. All you need to determine is the gauge wire that was used or the gauge wire your installing it on. You also need to replace it with the same length that was originally installed on the vehicle. You need to determine what caused the issue in the first place.
The fusible link wire would be best, but if it isn't available a fuse holder will work. A standard fuse holder will restore power to the ignition switch but you would need to use a slow-blow fuse. A standard fuse will blow as soon as the current exceeds its rating. A slow-blow fuse will allow momentary peaks of current that exceed their rating. If you do use a fuse holder, keep a couple extra fuses in the car for just such an emergency. I would think a 40~50 amp fuse would be adequate for a factory wiring system.
So, thanks to every one for your help. that's for sure frome this that no power.
I will replace by a link wire, i juste have something else to ask, there is the same link wire after the relay, is the same gauge (16 gauge) as this one, coz i can't read anything on this one.
and i would like to know if i can put thi link wire just before the relay and not just after the solenoid? coz it will be more practical to replace it if will come to burn again.
Thnaks again for your time and your answer.
maybe i will be back soon!
The link wire is usually 4ga sizes smaller than the wire its attached to, for instance if your running a 12ga then the link wire is a 16ga. I don't think it matters on which end of the wire a fusible link is installed but the length matters. I believe they are installed where they can do the least damage to a harness if tripped.
[QUOTE=oldcutlass;1061698]A fuse will not work properly. Your local auto parts should be able to get fusible link wire. All you need to determine is the gauge wire that was used or the gauge wire your installing it on. You also need to replace it with the same length that was originally installed on the vehicle. You need to determine what caused the issue in the first place.
The cause in the case of my 1976 was, my terminals were very corroded and the wire to the starter was a little loose.
So I ended up burning my link wire up from continued cranking of the key with no start.
Maybe the OP will post what caused his issue as well. This will help others when reading this thread.
Happy to hear you and molasson73 figured out his problem and the proper fix!
December 12th, 2017, 10:17 AM
Oldsmobile cutlass 1974
