no spark hei distributor
#41
no. want to get sure first if I get power on the r terminal. I have power on the r terminal only if I crank the engine. dont know if this is normal. today was also the first time I could not start the engine with power to the coil directly coming from the battery. have to reload the battery over night and try again tomorrow.
#42
worked on the car today. installed a cable to the r terminal and twisted them together with the power wire to the hei. I twisted the 2 cables together down at the fuse box and put them in a new male connector for the IGN fuse box. new today is that the IGN fuse box place had only 5 volts today. yesterday I had 12 volts there. could start the car today 1 time by using the BAT fuse place. there I have 12 volts. car run a few minutes without getting out themselve. I had to pull off the male connector from the fuse box to stop the engine. choke light was on during engine running and run at high rpm all the time with choke plate full opened. couldnt start the car again. also the analog battery voltage display in the dashboard instrument panel showing the nail under 8 volts! battery reloaded fully overnight. multimeter says 13 volts battery power. also over 13 volts power on the coil in the key on position. couldnt start the car again, just cranking.
Last edited by Eckat0100; May 21st, 2023 at 09:29 AM.
#46
Can’t say I know much about this car’s electrical wiring yet something appears to have gone sideways. Curious to ask this question though since I’ve known many guys replace electric chokes only to have wired them in incorrectly. Choke light remaining ON while engine running?
#48
#49
I deleted it because I saw it was bonded together with the pink hei power cable. edelbrock said not to do this. you should connect the choke to the fuse box acc. I am questioning myself when the choke plate is full opened manually, why the choke light comes on. it never came on before at the time the choke was working.
#50
problem solved, it was a combination of bad ignition module and 3 bad spark plugs (electrode gap too much closed) and a wrong ignition timing. the car already has 1 weakness still: if the engine is cold the car will fire immediately (also few times back to back). if the engine gets warm the car fires with problems and first time it wont fire today at all. I had to let cool the engine down for 3 hours. then it immediately fired again without any trouble. there is a assumption in the room that this comes from the wrong gear rim which is still plugged in the car. they dont changed it with the engine swap to 5.7 l which the car has now. consolidation changes when engine is cold and hot. is there any provisional solution for this? regards
#59
#61
BTDC means Before Top Dead Center. Top dead center means the piston is at the highest point in its motion. When someone says 14 degrees TDC, that means the ignition timing (the point where the spark plug fires) the spark happens 14 degrees BEFORE the piston reaches its highest point and starts back down the cylinder.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
#62
no spark
is this factory setting? I ask because this is stroker engine with better camshaft. I also noticed scratching sound by acceleration. I already have instruction now to set the timing to 10 degrees when idle in gear neutral and 32 to 36 degrees at 3000 RPM without vacuum. I dont know how the timing is set right now I have not done the work
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