My last post was resolved with the simple swapping of the fusible link. Now hopefully the last electric gremlin I have is why my horn blows when I turn the wheel side to side. I replaced the stock wheel with a cheap Grant one, with the recommended installation kit....with the wire with the little brass plunger at the end that you lock into the spring. I tried compressing/stretching the horn button spring thinking it may have been contacting prematurely. I also thought that the horn wire in the steering column may have a knick in it thats grounding out. Any ideas??

 

Ok after messing around with it today. I found that if I pull out on the wheel, then turn it, it is ok, but if i push the wheel back in, it blows again. It is a barely noticeable amount of play, but it seems to be enough to be the difference between grounding and not. Did I maybe have the wheeled installed too far in on the steering shaft? Maybe pushing the metal adapter too close to either the wheel or steering column? Anyone? Help?!?

 

A long time ago, I also did this with one of my cars. Got a cheap Grant 4 spoke and had all kinds of problems with the horn too. My solution was really simple. Ditch the Grant and stay stock. When I swapped out my steering wheel in my Cutlass S to a 4 spoke N34 direct fit option there was absolutely no issue with fit or horn operation. BTW if your steering wheel is not fastened down properly on the spline (make sure the center nut is really tight) it could be a safey issue. If it's snugged down really good then the problem is likely the adapter kit wiring or horn contact modification making erratic contact as you turn the wheel. I do remember that the Grant adapter was smaller, and didn't have the lock tab that GM had. Also the brass pin and spring didn't fit well. Anyway, that's why I took it off, took it back and got my money back.

Oh, almost forgot. The Grant wheel had way smaller diameter and made seeing the gages a PITA. Another reason I hated it.