I would like to install a msd ignition on my cutlass.My buddy and I were discussing it and have different ideas about what it's exactly for.Can you all tell me exacly what it does?
Thank you!

 

It impresses the spectators whenever you open your hood.

Norm

 

On top of impressing spectators...

It's a multiple spark discharge ignition system.
It's designed to completely burn all the fuel in the combustion chamber
by sending out a hotter spark multiple times during the course of each
combustion cycle.

Is your car still running points? Has it been converted to HEI?
Most engines will be just fine with a 74-90 stock GM HEI upgrade.
Factory HEI throws out a helluva spark that takes care of most of
our needs.

Got a picture of your engine bay?

 

You are talking about an MSD control box right? I has to be used with an after market distributor like one of theirs. Control boxes are used to fine tune the spark delivery; people that race their cars use them to compensate for altitude, air temperature, and other track conditions. Whether the use of a high voltage spark on an older car that is simply driven on the street is beneficial or not is a subject that is still disputed. Some people claim increased fuel economy, others increased horsepower but those claims are rarely backed up by scientific tests. I think I would be safe to say this at least, you won't have to change your points any longer if you put a system like that in, so I guess at the very least you would see easier maintenance in the future.


edit: as usual, my long and slow composition time has ended in a post that seems redundant. Oh well.

 

Unless you are drag racing and need 2-3 step rev control, and/or running N2O/Boost and need spark retard, there is no advantage to MSD over HEI IMHO.

If fact HEI is often adapted for use on other engines. It's simpler, easier to install and often cheaper.

If are planning on drag racing, I would run the digtal mallery 6A, it has boost retard and a 2 step built in for about 40 bucks more than an analog MSD. I run one on my car and never had a problem. I can also change rev limits with buttons, and not have to but pills like the old analog MSDs. Just my .02

 

There are different types of MSD units. The basic box just provides multiple spark firings for each compression stroke. The theory is that if the first spark doesn't completely ignite the mixture, the second or third will. I'm on the fence here. Norm is correct - a properly tuned ignition system and correct fuel delivery shouldn't require this crutch. On the other hand, I've used an MSD6 on a 455 with nitrous and it did seem to help on the track (note to Norm - the MSD box was hidden under the dash and didn't help with that spectator impressing function. Clearly I made a mistake there... ).

The newer MSD boxes have a number of additional functions that are beneficial. You can, for example, use an MSD unit to provide complete control over your advance curve. This may require additional sensors, but the ability to dial in an advance curve from the driver's seat has some advantages. Other available functions are rev limiter and multi-step control for specific racing classes.

 

ROFL, well spoken by norm

 

Heres some pics of the engine bay.I have a HEI distributor.From what you guys are telling meI think I'll leave the msd alone for now.

 

My friend,
If you spend a saturday cleaning and detailing that engine compartment it would be so much better and do justice to such a nice looking car. Seriously, a bag of shop rags, a roll of paper towels, a good cleaner like simple green, some windex, a small brush, some elbow grease, and you have a nice sparkling engine bay that makes that small block POP! You already have enough chrome, offset it by getting that black on the fender wells and firewall to shine. Hoses too.

 

Oldsguy you must be reading my mind because that's exactly what I was going to do this weekend but I didn't know how to go about it. So you said simple green and elbow grease huh? I'll give a try and post pics.

Thank you

 

It will look a lot like mine : ) 100_3230.jpg

 

Well, various cleaners, simple green is one of my favorites for plastic and rubber. It is mild enough that it doesn't damage parts, sometimes requires more than one application. Windex on chrome after you cleaned everything up leaves no streaks. If your chrome is pitted some you will need a polishing paste (lots of brands out there). If you have a shop vacuum cleaner used if first with a dry old toothbrush or similar tool to knock loose the big chunks of dirt and junk and then suck it up with the vacuum. A small brass bristle brush shaped like a toothbrush (can be purchased at the hardware store) can be used to get old burnt paint off the heads near the exhaust port and also to clean off rust on the exhaust manifolds but only do that if you intend to re-paint the same day. Then, if you do, mask everything else well. A few small rattle cans of paint should do for touch up purposes, won't last forever but will surely last a while, I would re-paint that alternator bracket satin black, I think that was more original looking and contrasts with the gold engine and chrome accessories well. Any way, getting carried away here. Have fun.

 

If you are running HEI you should be fine. Only spend the money if you don't have anything else to do.

BTW, that engine bay does look nice. Show us a picture once you clean it up. You might also want to take the air plenum apart and remove the AC parts from the car since you don't have the compressor on it anymore. I did that with my 64 and it looks a million times better. You can always save the hoses, condesor, accumulator, etc. if you want to put AC back on the car in the future.

 

The only problem with removing the A/C box is that you need to remove the passenger side fender (or at a minimum the inner fender) to get to all the nuts. You may also want to consider finding a non-A/C alternator bracket to put the alternator on the passenger side. This will help balance the side load on the water pump and can extend water pump bearing life.

I've found that pre-cleaner solvent (available at auto paint stores) is one of the best things for cleaning wiring and spark plug cables. The pre-cleaner won't damage plastic or rubber and cuts grease very quickly. It MAY remove some date code ink, so be sure to test it first if you care about that.

 

Wow! Those were all great suggestions.This weekend is the good guys car show in the bay area so after I finish looking at other cars in amazement I will definitely take the time to clean my engine bay. THANK YOU!

 

Hello all. I took the advice from you fellow oldsmobile guys and cleaned up my engine bay a little.How does it look?

OLD


NEW

 

That looks much better. The work was worth it, yes?

 

It definitely was. Thanks for the little push!!!

 

Is that a future cutlass owner/driver checking out the engine bay detail from a warm blanket? Keep the keys in a safe place.

 

Gotta clean my engine bay now

I just bought a new cap, rotor, advance, and coil. All stock and the car runs better now.

The weights and springs on the otherhand. If I can get my hands on a new base, I can rebuild that and swap the rest

 

Yes, that is a future cutlass owner.My other kids like my 96 impala ss in the background but this one is a olds man.

 

Lookin' good!