Ignition problem in 72 Cutlass

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Old May 27th, 2013, 05:48 PM
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Ignition problem in 72 Cutlass

I'm lousy at the forum thing. I've searched through any ignition related posts that seem like they'd help, but haven't found any definitive answers, so I'm giving a shot at just posting a new thread.

Anyway, two nights ago I noticed that it was harder than usual to start the car, because the key was having some resistance when I tried to turn it, similar to the resistance you get when the steering wheel locks. It did start, but just had a bit of a problem turning the key.

Yesterday it ran fine until I got to the gas pump. I filled the tank, and when I went to start the engine, it will crank and the engine will start, but as soon as I let go of the key and leave it in the "run" position, everything shuts off as though I had turned the key to the "off" position. The accessories won't even get any electricity unless I push the key just a little past "run" but not fully to "start".

A friend said it was likely the rod inside the column that runs down by the brake pedals, but I have no clue about this area of the car and didn't know if anyone else had any experience with this.

Any clues would be a great help, since I have to drive someone to the airport tomorrow night.
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Old May 28th, 2013, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by leatherneck
Anyway, two nights ago I noticed that it was harder than usual to start the car, because the key was having some resistance when I tried to turn it, similar to the resistance you get when the steering wheel locks. It did start, but just had a bit of a problem turning the key.

Yesterday it ran fine until I got to the gas pump. I filled the tank, and when I went to start the engine, it will crank and the engine will start, but as soon as I let go of the key and leave it in the "run" position, everything shuts off as though I had turned the key to the "off" position. The accessories won't even get any electricity unless I push the key just a little past "run" but not fully to "start".

A friend said it was likely the rod inside the column that runs down by the brake pedals, but I have no clue about this area of the car and didn't know if anyone else had any experience with this.

Any clues would be a great help, since I have to drive someone to the airport tomorrow night.
The actual switch is at the base of the steering column, on the top side. You need to drop the column to access it. Your friend is correct in that there is a rod that runs from the lock cylinder down to the switch. The switch does have an adjustment (the mounting holes are slotted) but the resistance you felt makes me think the switch is bad. Keep in mind that there are separate power wires from the switch to the distributor, one that provides 12V in the START position and a separate one that provides about 9V through the resistance wire in the RUN position. If the contacts in the RUN position are bad (or that resistance wire is bad), the car will start then will immediately turn off when you release the key to the RUN position.
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