Ignition help
May 4th, 2018 | 01:47 PM
#1
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Ignition help
guys I have a problem that may take someone else’s knowledge because mine is limited. Here my problem I turn the key to the On position no lights I turn the key to the start position like I’m trying to start it and the lights come on I have a voltage gauge that doesn’t show any voltage until I’m actually turning the key toStart the car car cranks like it’s going to start but is soon as I let off of the key I lose all power anybody have any ideas I would really appreciate it thanks
May 4th, 2018 | 02:38 PM
#2
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From: Poteau, Ok
I moved your thread to the electrical section. First off what year and model car are we talking about. What distributor are you running? On your initial description your missing the run circuit, no voltage to the coil + terminal when the key is in the run position. Have you been working on any projects that may have caused this issue?
May 5th, 2018 | 05:13 AM
#3
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1969 442 i have a msd distributor i noticed a month ago while driving what seemed like a total loss of power (for a second) then power was back yesterday went to the garage turned on the ket should of had gen and oil light come on but there was nothing then i would turn key to start car act like it wants to start till i release the key all dead again thanks for the help guys
May 5th, 2018 | 05:37 AM
#4
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From: Northern VA
I'm afraid we need more info. A 1969 442 doesn't have a voltage gauge, so obviously that has been added. What else has been added to the car? How were these aftermarket gauges wired up? What "lights" are you talking about not coming on (the idiot lights are only supposed to come on in the START position as a "lamp test" function).
May 8th, 2018 | 02:50 PM
#5
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I'm afraid we need more info. A 1969 442 doesn't have a voltage gauge, so obviously that has been added. What else has been added to the car? How were these aftermarket gauges wired up? What "lights" are you talking about not coming on (the idiot lights are only supposed to come on in the START position as a "lamp test" function).
May 8th, 2018 | 03:54 PM
#13
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From: Poteau, Ok
Ok, you can remove and stow the wires on the coil+ terminal. Then run a temporary jumper 12/14ga wire from your battery+ to the coil+ terminal and eliminate all the cars wiring. You still need to crank the engine with the key. In order to shut it off you need to remove the temporary jumper. Also if your car has a tach disconnect that wire off the coil- terminal.
May 12th, 2018 | 06:30 AM
#17
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Ok so here’s what I got I did take a wire to the battery and the car fired right up. So I disconnected wiring from coil and metered it. With some help to read the meter I found that with the key in the run position I would and could get 12v on the coil wire but I would have to jiggle /jostle the key around a bit so I’m kinda thinking it’s the key cylinder any thoughts.
May 12th, 2018 | 06:55 AM
#21
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Ok that did nothing for me the key works in the start position and in the accessory position so I think it is the key or is there a electrical switch on the column I should replace first ? That being said does anyone have a tutorial of how the ignition switch is removed without damaging the column and where can I buy one that matches the original. Thanks
May 12th, 2018 | 07:39 AM
#22
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From: Poteau, Ok
Sorry confused myself, yours is a column mounted switch. Someone else may need to walk you through an adjustment procedure if its possible. The switch is mounted to the column and there is a rod that runs from the tumbler to the switch.
May 12th, 2018 | 08:39 AM
#24
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From: Redmond, Oregon
Do you mean the tumbler assembly? If so you can buy it new on rockauto.com or any of the parts restoration sellers. A good lock smith can do things too. Often it is a worn out key that is the problem.
Hope this is some help
Larry
Hope this is some help
Larry
May 12th, 2018 | 08:56 AM
#30
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From: Redmond, Oregon
If I read your post correctly about the ignition issue, it is not the ( tumbler key) it is the ignition switch you need to replace. This is on the column below where it meets the dash. It has two screws that hold it to the column and a rod goes from the tumbler set up to it and makes if move to position the car from off to run and start as well as from off to accessory. This is where a service manual would be helpful for you. A test light is a great tool for this on these cars.
If it is the ignition switch. So not the key but the switch on the column lower on the column. These are available at the previously mentioned parts places as well as your local parts store. A tilt column and a non-tilt column uses different switches.
I just did one on a 72 and it was $12 at Orielly auto parts.
If it is the ignition switch. So not the key but the switch on the column lower on the column. These are available at the previously mentioned parts places as well as your local parts store. A tilt column and a non-tilt column uses different switches.
I just did one on a 72 and it was $12 at Orielly auto parts.
May 12th, 2018 | 09:00 AM
#31
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From: Poteau, Ok
This place sells parts, however it may be an adjustment or the connecting assy that is the issue.
http://www.steeringcolumnservices.co...s-non-tilt.php
http://www.steeringcolumnservices.co...s-non-tilt.php
May 12th, 2018 | 09:03 AM
#32
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If I read your post correctly about the ignition issue, it is not the ( tumbler key) it is the ignition switch you need to replace. This is on the column below where it meets the dash. It has two screws that hold it to the column and a rod goes from the tumbler set up to it and makes if move to position the car from off to run and start as well as from off to accessory. This is where a service manual would be helpful for you. A test light is a great tool for this on these cars.
If it is the ignition switch. So not the key but the switch on the column lower on the column. These are available at the previously mentioned parts places as well as your local parts store. A tilt column and a non-tilt column uses different switches.
I just did one on a 72 and it was $12 at Orielly auto parts.
If it is the ignition switch. So not the key but the switch on the column lower on the column. These are available at the previously mentioned parts places as well as your local parts store. A tilt column and a non-tilt column uses different switches.
I just did one on a 72 and it was $12 at Orielly auto parts.
May 12th, 2018 | 09:07 AM
#33
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Posts: 3,336
From: Redmond, Oregon
That switch is also adjustable about a 1/4 inch or so. It is held on with two screws that are very short. It is on the top of the column on the left side as you sit in the car. has two plug ins that make one. very common to have issues and if you pull it loose. you can move it with a small screw driver and check it with a test light.
Hope this helps
Larry
Hope this helps
Larry
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