dephconn24

So I've been trying to get my '72 cutlass running and whenever I turn the key, instead of the starter engaging all I get is the "HOT" dash light coming on. Nothing at all from the Engine.

The motor is a '66 330ci from another Olds I believe (previous owners put it in there for whatever reason).

I unbolted the starter and took it in to get tested and it turns out that thing was shot. It started smoking on their tester! So I got a new starter and redid the terrible condition wiring going to the starter and STILL I am getting that same problem.

I thought it might be wonky wiring somewhere so before I got a new starter I replaced all the terminals I could see and replaced all of the condensers I could find. Still nothing.

The previous owner had installed an aftermarket extra gauge cluster along with a tach and shift light (still automatic, though I think there plans were making it a drag strip car with manual). Anyways, their wiring is absolutely hideous so that made it terribly not fun to diagnose this wiring.

Also replaced the fuses even though most looked fine.

I'm at wall with my mechanical and electrical knowledge of cars, so I'm hoping you wonderful guys and gals could help me out with any ideas.

Thank you in advance! :]

oldcutlass

The hot light is normal and a separate function. Your going to have to trace voltage from the neutral safety switch. forward to find out where its dropping off.

Is your battery fully charged, whats the voltage?

Octania

There are only 2-3 things in the battery to starter circuit, it can't be too tough to methodically find out where the voltage is and where it is not. Is there 12V at the violet wire at the starter when the key is in the start position? You did put the violet wire on the correct "S" terminal, right?

dephconn24

It is on the "S" terminal, yes. I will have to take my multimeter to it tomorrow when I have time if it's not raining.

I'm a newbie at this whole thing so I'm learning as I go, just bear with me

Battery is good, reading around 12.2V. I will get a good schematic and trace some wires. Unfortunately the wires in the engine compartment have been painted over and covered in grime so seeing the colors takes a good amount of effort.

I will post with an update as soon as I can, thank you both for helpful suggestions!

Allan R

A battery that's only putting out 12.2 volts is running 50% or less. It's not fully charged by a long way.

MDchanic

Lacquer thinner.

- Eric

oldcutlass

Battery needs to be checked/ charged before proceeding.

Professur

Two things ... you bought it. They put it there, but it's Your wonky hideous wiring now. Second ... there's really only 2 ways to debug hacked on wiring. On our older cars the one that makes sense is to start with a pair of wire cutters and chop the crap out and start pulling new. Or, get a replacement harness. They're nice and flexible. and the ends are labeled.

Even if you get it all sorted, you're still working with bodged up, dried up, 45 year old wiring. Even if you manage to track all the problems and sort them all out ... every time you touch a wire, you're likely to make a new problem. Chop the lot out and start fresh.

Octania

Also, a test LIGHT or buzzer even will do 90% of troubleshooting by searching for lost voltage. You can tell "about" how much voltage is present by the brightness of the light. Generally, we are looking for either 0 or "12" volts- the full battery voltage. The 0.1 volt accuracy of a meter is overkill, and you have to see and read it. A light is faster and easy to read.

Here is a test light [feed wie connected to +V] showing a bad ground. If that black wire had a path to battery (-) like it should, the test light would illuminate.

When I touched the light tip to the INTAKE, the light illuminated. Therefore, the path from that choke gnd wire to the carb to the intake was not proper and complete.

IMG_7785_zpsae70f06d.jpg