Horn testing...

Old June 15th, 2014, 03:03 PM
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Horn testing...

I took the horns off to test, If I remember correctly ground the case put 12v on the lead and it should blow correct?


72 cutlass
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Old June 15th, 2014, 03:21 PM
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Correct
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Old June 15th, 2014, 03:47 PM
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what are the odds both horns are bad. phhffft!
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Old June 15th, 2014, 03:56 PM
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50%, are you sure you have a good connection for your ground?
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Old June 15th, 2014, 04:25 PM
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Actually, the true horn test is not only to ground it and put 12V on the terminal and see if it blows, but also to put an ammeter in series with it and check the reading. It should draw 5A. If it doesn't, you need to turn the adjuster screw until it does.

If the horns are bad, the rivets can be drilled out, the points cleaned gently, the internals bead blasted, if possible, and reassembled with nuts and bolts.

- Eric

ps: if anyone knows where to get the special socket for the adjuster screw, I'd love to have one.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 04:48 PM
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50%, are you sure you have a good connection for your ground?


Pretty sure. Grounded it right to battery. Looks like it got painted over so I was sure to scrape it good.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 04:58 PM
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Do they even make a spark?
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Old June 15th, 2014, 05:12 PM
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I have experienced two fail at the same time on a 2005 kia.
Try to turn the adjustment screw in just a tad (like 1/16 of a turn), and try again.
This fixed the both of the kia's. I suspect the points inside got a thin layer of corrosion and the small tweak broke through it. Ironically, those horns were made by "Unsung Horn LTD"...
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Old June 15th, 2014, 05:30 PM
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No spark.

I suspect the points inside got a thin layer of corrosion and the small tweak broke through it.

Hmm can't get the quote button to work. Anyways that could be the issue, as in all over the place.

I had no power to the horn leads until I pulled the green wire at relay and reconnected.

Same case with wiper motor. after an all day project I got it to work. Turns out the ground on the motor had to be scrubbed real good with wire brush.


I can't get that little **** to turn. It's corroded stuck, painted stuck of both. Maybe I need to get out the BF vice grips.

Last edited by davoaz; June 15th, 2014 at 05:32 PM.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 07:29 PM
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Get some penetrating oil on the little screw's threads and let sit over night. If still will not move, I say it is BFVG time. If turning the screws do not make them work, they may need replacement.
It is possible that the previous owner parked in a garage or barn with oxidizing chemicals like pool chlorine. My exGF kept it in the garage and all exposed metal in there was corroded. The garage door limit switches routinely corroded and failed, destroying the opener several times too.
I told her not to keep in in there, so she kept it in the kitchen (I did not know this for a while). Then the microwave door switches failed after a few months..... It finally got stored outside.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 06:02 AM
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Old June 16th, 2014, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71 View Post
I say it is BFVG time.
I'm familiar with the BFH. I was not aware that the BF company had branched out into pliers.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 07:09 AM
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Oh yeah, Bf tool co makes, channel locks, pipe wrenches, vise grips, pry bars, and screwdrivers.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 07:23 AM
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So I probably need to replace the horns. What's the difference between Hi and Low note horn sounds? When my horns went kaput on my Chevelle I replaced with two horns that were the same for my 04' GMC P/U.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass View Post
Oh yeah, Bf tool co makes, channel locks, pipe wrenches, vise grips, pry bars, and screwdrivers.
Don't forget axes and splitting mauls. Sometimes that big log requires a BF product to get 'er split!

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Old June 16th, 2014, 07:45 AM
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You can use a pair of horns off almost anything.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by davoaz View Post
So I probably need to replace the horns.
Not necessarily. You can open them up and clean them.


Originally Posted by davoaz View Post
What's the difference between Hi and Low note horn sounds?
One is and A and one is and F.

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Old June 16th, 2014, 07:54 AM
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If you do open them, you can buy gaskets and rivets from the Corvette suppliers. I don't know if any of the Olds suppliers carry them.

Originally Posted by MDchanic View Post
Not necessarily. You can open them up and clean them.



One is and A and one is and F.

- Eric
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Old June 16th, 2014, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Boiler_81 View Post
If you do open them, you can buy gaskets and rivets from the Corvette suppliers.
Bah.

x20 screws and nuts, and you don't need no steenkin' gaskets (or you can make 'em out of paper, if you really want to).

- Eric
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Old June 16th, 2014, 09:16 AM
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Very true, however if you want the original look, the rivets are available.

Originally Posted by MDchanic View Post
Bah.

x20 screws and nuts, and you don't need no steenkin' gaskets (or you can make 'em out of paper, if you really want to).

- Eric

Last edited by Boiler_81; June 16th, 2014 at 01:57 PM.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 09:44 AM
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No argument here, but I would point out that on many models, the horns are essentially invisible behind the grille.

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Old June 16th, 2014, 12:03 PM
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Yep, it just depends on how much to original look is worth. I rebuilt my 66 Corvette horns with one of the kits. Before riveting them, I used screws and nuts to test that they were functioning properly. The kits can be purchased with or without diaphragms. In my case the diaphragms were rusted out and needed to be replaced.

Originally Posted by MDchanic View Post
No argument here, but I would point out that on many models, the horns are essentially invisible behind the grille.

- Eric
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Old June 16th, 2014, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 501Paratrooper View Post
Great video. Just what I was looking for to restore some horns I pulled from 71 Cutlass Supremes. I don't think the centers are plastic though - have to take them apart to find out.

Originally Posted by Boiler_81 View Post
Yep, it just depends on how much to original look is worth. I rebuilt my 66 Corvette horns with one of the kits. Before riveting them, I used screws and nuts to test that they were functioning properly. The kits can be purchased with or without diaphragms. In my case the diaphragms were rusted out and needed to be replaced.
Link to the Corvette supplier for the rivets?

I have 4 horns I picked (free) from pick n pull as they don't work (and they just wanted me out of the yard since it was past closing time). I'm sure that I can restore them with some work. I'll media blast the exteriors prior to disassembly and go from there.

So here's the question of the day, what would be the down side of installing 4 horns instead of just 2. I believe all 4 of the horns I have are different notes. The horn relay should be able to handle that, shouldn't it?
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Old June 16th, 2014, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Allan R View Post
So here's the question of the day, what would be the down side of installing 4 horns instead of just 2.
The word you're looking for is cacophony
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Old June 16th, 2014, 01:06 PM
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So, the short version is 'no down side'...

Cacophony? I prefer 'distinctive audible warning'.. Of course I'd test this before actually committing it to permanent residence on the car. Just need a longer bolt to mount 2 horn brackets where there only used to be one.

Up side? Another project!! Ah jess luvs projects....
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Old June 16th, 2014, 01:54 PM
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I believe some of the late eighties Olds had a horn option that involved using all four tones of the GM seashell horns.
Some say they sound like a locomotive.

I, myself, have a third Cadillac trumpet horn, plus, a set of air horns from a party boat that I can use if I throw a switch.
I give one long blast when pulling out of the slip, to warn other traffic.

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Old June 16th, 2014, 01:55 PM
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Deluxe kit: http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...n-rebuild-kit/

Standard Kit: http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...-refinish-kit/

Found this ended auction on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Remy-H...-/171314986905

You may want to contact him to see if he has access to any more kits.

I have used Zip for a lot of my Corvette parts. All of it has been very good quality.



[QUOTE=Allan R;711476] Link to the Corvette supplier for the rivets?
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Old June 16th, 2014, 02:07 PM
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Thank you for the links. Not sure if I need all of those components. I'll find out when I open one of them up. I'll have to try that 'adjustment' screw trick first to see if that gets something going. I'm not surprised that the horns fail considering where they were placed on these cars. At least on the Cadillac horn rebuild video the horns were tucked into a relatively drier area, but a PITA to have to remove a battery each time you needed access.

Good to know that Zip has good quality. I've bookmarked the site for future use.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 04:22 PM
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Just watched that video.

For others who may wish to try this, please note that the guy in the video is rebuilding a plastic horn from the 1980s.
The basic mechanism is the same, but it is important to note that the earlier horns have NO central screw holding them together, so DON'T go looking for one.

Also, Allan, to answer your earlier question, at about 18 minutes, he looks in a manual at a wiring diagram of the horn system, and it clearly shows the relay and the four-horn setup, as well as the tones of all the horns.

- Eric
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Old June 16th, 2014, 04:38 PM
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Here is a step by step from a Corvette site for rebuilding the old style horns: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-horn-rebuild/

Originally Posted by MDchanic View Post
Just watched that video.

For others who may wish to try this, please note that the guy in the video is rebuilding a plastic horn from the 1980s.
The basic mechanism is the same, but it is important to note that the earlier horns have NO central screw holding them together, so DON'T go looking for one.

Also, Allan, to answer your earlier question, at about 18 minutes, he looks in a manual at a wiring diagram of the horn system, and it clearly shows the relay and the four-horn setup, as well as the tones of all the horns.

- Eric
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Old June 16th, 2014, 05:30 PM
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Just watched that vid. That is the fanciest hearse I've ever seen under the hood.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Boiler_81 View Post
Here is a step by step from a Corvette site for rebuilding the old style horns
The one in the pictures on that page is still a new model, but it does not have the separate plastic frame, so disassembly is the same as for our earlier horns.

Horn on Corvette page:






Earlier horns that most of us have:



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Old June 16th, 2014, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic View Post
...to answer your earlier question, at about 18 minutes, he looks in a manual at a wiring diagram of the horn system, and it clearly shows the relay and the four-horn setup, as well as the tones of all the horns.
I saw that too Eric, but wasn't sure if there was something about the horn relay on Cadillac that was any different than Olds. I had to laugh though when he tested his dual notes. Didn't really sound anything like the twins in my Cutlass. I think his fell 'flat' and mine are still 'sharp'
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Old June 21st, 2014, 09:14 PM
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So I got he horns working or so I thought. According to the trouble shoot diagram it now sounds like I need a new horn relay. Since I have to mail order a relay, do switches in the steering wheel go out often or they sound? BTW, I suppose this means
"(1969 - 1977 Cutlass/442) HORN RELAY - REPLACEMENT STYLE" That its not going to be the same one I am replacing.
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Old June 22nd, 2014, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by davoaz View Post
So I got he horns working or so I thought.
According to the trouble shoot diagram it now sounds like I need a new horn relay.
Forgive me, but I don't understand how you can be uncertain about this.

The horn relay has four terminals:
  • Big post connects straight to the battery, and distributes power to the rest of the car
  • Terminal with little black and pink wire makes the key-in-switch buzzer go off - Ignore this one.
  • Terminal with little black wire goes to the horn button.
  • Terminal with little black and green wire goes to the horns.
  • Relay must be grounded to work.
  1. Make sure the big post is connected to the battery (check it for 12V).
  2. Pull off black and green wire.
  3. Connect this wire to 12V.
    Horn should sound.
    If not, problem is in horn wiring or horns.
  4. Reconnect this wire.
  5. Pull off black wire.
  6. Connect relay terminal it was attached to to 12V.
    Horn should sound.
    If not, confirm relay is grounded.
    If relay is grounded, then relay is no good.

This is not rocket science.

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Old June 22nd, 2014, 08:54 AM
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Forgive me, but I don't understand how you can be uncertain about this.

The black wire terminal test I didn't know about. I knew about green wire.


Uncertainty was initially the relay clicked indicating horns, I replaced them and they worked. Then after a few times went to use horn and now they don't work anymore.
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Old June 22nd, 2014, 09:15 AM
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So check the relay in a systematic way and see where the problem is.

You're sure your battery is charged, right?

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Old June 22nd, 2014, 01:05 PM
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You're sure your battery is charged, right?

Bat is good, Alternator puts out 14V. I can get horn to work when car sits but as soon as I start it, it doesn't work except once right after I came back from testing bat and Alt.
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Old January 6th, 2019, 02:50 PM
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I can't get my horn to work

I can't get my passenger side horn to work. I removed the rivets, cleaned the contacts, adjusted the screw any which one could but it just as a "Click" noise that;s it. Some one replaced them and if anybody as a set of 9000-261 & 9000-262 A & F notes for a 68 442 (working would be best) i would love to buy them from you. By the way they are several letters on these horns which one corresponds to the note and where is it located on the horn? Any help would be graet.
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Old January 6th, 2019, 06:15 PM
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Unless originality is very important, you can get some horns from a later model car and use those. In my case, they are almost completely hidden, and functional was much more important than appearance. Not to mention much cheaper!!I got a pair of horns from a big Cadillac, my original hors either didnt work,or sounded like a sick goose when they did work. I picked the Cadillac horns because I wanted a horn that sounded with authority, something that says move!! You can either cut off the original mounting tabs, and weld on the Olds bracket, or drill out the spot welds and transfer the entire bracket and fill in the spot weld you drilled out. Most late model horns use a sealed connector that wont corrode, and will require a separate ground wire.
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