I have a sport wheel in my car. When I pressed on the horn button, sometimes the horn would operate continuously (not good in Philly), and other times the horn didn't operate. I removed the horn contact button and found that the plunger didn't have a spring. I ordered a new plunger with a spring from Fusick yesterday. Upon receipt of the new plunger, I'll install the new plunger and install the correct screws in the wheel. I'm sorting through details from the previous owner. Also, I don't want to drive in Philly with a horn that operates continuously. Could be hazardous to my health....

Some photographs for reference:

Steering wheel with the horn contact removed.

Horn contact.


Plunger (no spring).

Horn button.

 

Here are some instructions from Stage1restoration website. They might be helpful. Don W

 

Don,

Thanks for the instructions. I'm not sure that Fusick's kit includes the white tube for the horn cam. Is the tube something that should be included in the kit or a part that should be in my wheel. If the tube should be in my wheel, I don't see the tube in my photograph. Time to worry...

 

This is on the way from Fusick.

Fusick's kit.

 

Hmmmm, not sure. I would think you would need the tube to act as an insulator. I know I bought and installed the kit from Stage1resto on one of my Olds.

Don W

 

Those pics I posted may be of a steering column with out the hub. That is why you can see the white plastic tube. The kit I bought is the same as yours. Your "white" plastic tube maybe down in your hub and been painted? Sorry I am going from memory from over a year ago.

Don W

 

No need to apologize, I appreciate all your help. I looked at the photograph of my steering wheel and I don't see a "white" tube. In fact, my sport wheel has a brass insert. I just checked OPGI, and the Parts Place, and the part ordered from Fusick looks identical to the other suppliers. I'm attaching photographs of my sport wheel for reference. Hopefully we'll figure this out or a member with recent experience will assist.

The 11:00 position looks like a brass insert.



Thanks again.

 

The "tube" is part of the cancel cam. It used to be white, now it's discolored. If it really is brass, someone broke it and implemented a half-fast solution.

 

Bingo...what Joe said.

You'll likely need to pull your steering wheel for a closer look at that "sleeve" that you think may be brass. Doesn't look like whatever is in there has the small "retaining notch" to hold the spring/plunger assembly in place. The "retaining notch" is clearly visible in Joe's pics.

 

I wanted to thank everyone for their help. Turns out that I must purchase part "A", in addition to the plunger and spring in my prior post in order for my horn to operate correctly. In addition, I'm told that I must remove my wheel and hub in order to install part "A" for my horn to operate correctly. Now I understand why my horn didn't operate from the day I bought my car.

Same work. The photograph is for a Chevelle for illustration purposes only.

 

I can see it,, although it does look like a piece of brass instead of a spring. Unless the tube cracked at the top (common) he probably doesn't need to buy anything else. Yank the hub and take a look. (you'd have to pull it anyway to install a new cam)

 

I already bought the spring and plunger from Fusick. After posting, I learned about the cam and that I need to remove the steering wheel and hub to install the cam. Strange, but Fusick doesn't show the cam , yet the Parts Place does. I ordered an additional plunger, spring and the cam from the Parts Place.

 

You can buy the cancel cam from Dorman for a lot less than from the repro houses. It's the same imported part.

 

Hey, I’m attempting this same steering wheel install and am running into a similar issue. The problem I have is that there seems to be no motion in the horn button itself. I haven’t hooked up power yet; I figure there’s no point until I find out why there’s no movement. Before I deal with phone tech support, just thought I’d see if this is something you ran into. Thanks!

 

I've seen this happen when the incorrect screws were used to attache the horn contact ring to the hub. If the screw heads stick up too far, the horn button will bottom on those before the spring in the contact ring moves. Of course, since these screw heads also provide a path to ground, the horn will blow constantly.

 

Well, it works! The horn ring had some tabs on it that I ended up turning around; they were just oblong enough to be in the way of letting the horn button move. Hooked the battery up just waiting to get nuked by the horns, but it’s actually right now. Credit to the insight on this thread for getting it together. 🍻

 

Finally got my horn working yesterday. Installed a new plunger and spring assembly. Locked the plunger in the cam. Put up a good fight. The horn contact worked every time when depressed without the horn button installed. The correct screws were installed on the contact and the wheel (please see the attached photograph). However with the horn button installed, the horn button would not operate the horn contact to operate the horn. I had to cut some of the metal on the horn button for the horn button to operate the horn. I'm wondering whether the horn contact and/or the horn button were from different manufacturers??