HLS

I have to really turn the ignition switch real hard in order to get it to start. So far I have been lucky and it starts. But sometimes I have to try 3 or 4 times really twisting the key hard. So, would anyone have an idea of where my problem lies. Is it in the Ignition switch it self, In the steering column where the key is inserted, maybe just an adjustment somewhere. Also, sometimes the key sticks in the start position... and I have to turn key back manually... spring does not always work... where ever that spring is. So, where do I start.

Sugar Bear

What is the year and model? Is it a tilt column? Was anything done near or in the column before the problem started?

The spring return is in the switch located on top of the column. There is adjustment by sliding the switch on the mounting screws. The problem of intermittent springback is probably a bad switch. Change it before it hangs up and the starter cannot be disengaged.

Good luck!!!

HLS

Sorry, I should have said it is a 71 Supreme without tilt steering. Nothing was done in that area prior to problem starting. Thanks, for the info. I will look into that switch... if I can get to it.

joe_padavano

The lock cylinder is not the ignition switch. The actual switch is at the base of the column and is actuated by a rod from the lock cylinder.

There are many potential causes for your problem, especially if it's been getting worse over time. The most likely cause is wear in the backdrive linkage from the trans to the steering column. These parts are used to lock the shifter with the key. The backdrive linkage turns a collar in the steering column that must be aligned properly for the key to turn. If the linkage is worn, the collar can get off alignment, causing binding in the linkage from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch.

Other causes can be a worn lock cylinder, worn key, or worn rack and pinion mechanism in the column (where rotary motion of the lock cylinder is converted to linear motion to actuate the ignition switch).

brown7373

The ignition switch has a series of metal contacts that are fused into the plastic shell. They wear and can get loose in the plastic shell and cause binding. I had an intermittent short once that heated the contacts and partially melted the plastic shell and the area around the contacts, and the switch did exactly what you are describing. Fixed the short, replaced the switch and it was never again an issue.

Octania

to check the backdrive, move the shifter from D to P,
if the trouble is there, then reach down and grab the steering column part that rotates, and force it to rotate more towards Park. By doing this, you are helping the back drive get the column collar all the way into the proper position.

If your key now goes nicely to LOCK then you found the problem. Adjust and/or replace loose parts as needed.

If not... look into the switching part of the wiring.

HLS

Ok, I was nice out today so I went looking for the ignition start switch. Someone told me I had to drop the steering shaft down so I could access the switch. I guess that means removing 2 nuts shown in Pic A. But I doubt that shaft will drop down much considering the other end at the fire wall. It does not seem to be a pivotal point. In Pic B you can see where the linkage to the transmission connects to the steering shaft. Well if I did remove those 2 bolts in Pic A, what is the impact at this point when the drive shaft drops down even it if can without removing anything in the fire wall area. I believe the reason to drop the shaft down is to provide access to the ignition switch which I believe is shown in Pic C. Is that the switch I need to replace. Not being sure of all that... I decided to remove the steering wheel and see what was accessible from that end. Pic D shows where I stopped. Not sure how to go deeper to gain access to the ignition switch by the key. Maybe something up here is causing my ignition switch to be hard to engage (which also is sometimes sticky and not wanting to release). All this is for a 71 Cutlass without tilt steering.

If anyone has been in this area before and can help, it would be much appreciated.

Hal

MDchanic

Pic A: Yes, those two nuts. Just drop it down onto the seat.

Pic B: The part you can't identify is the universal joint. And fix that wire.

Pic C: I'm not sure what you're looking at there, but I think it's the neutral safety switch.
The ignition switch is really hard to see with the column up in place.

- Eric