Electrical drainage
#1
Electrical drainage
Engine bay. Generator on the left voltage regulator fire wall right side.
Generator. Not an alternator
Brand NOS voltage regulator. Installed by myself. (Maybe this is where I screwed up)
Brand new battery
Hi all. I have a 1961 Oldsmobile dynamic 88. I have replaced the Delco Remy voltage regulator and installed a new battery. She’ll start and run for about 4-5 minutes and then shut off. When I go to start her back up the batteries almost dead. I have removed the battery and recharged it, replaced back into the car with the same results. (Ran a voltage meter to the alternator and it works). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all.
Last edited by DVS18th; June 7th, 2022 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Added photos.
#3
A brand new battery should maintain a charge of >12.6V when new and when the car is off. With the car running the alternator should be capable of recharging the battery & while the car is running the battery terminals should display a voltage of ~14.3V; albeit, following Eric's suggestion determine the voltage as already suggested.
Note the state of a 12V battery with regards to State Of Charge & Volts/Cell. It's important to measure the voltage accurately in the off position and running position.
Note the state of a 12V battery with regards to State Of Charge & Volts/Cell. It's important to measure the voltage accurately in the off position and running position.
#4
A 61 came with a generator. Alternators first appeared on 1962 airconditioned cars. If it is in fact an alternator someone has changed things.
Check the alternator plug. One for an external regulator unit will look like | | . If the alternator is internal regulator the plug looks like - - .
An internal regulated unit combined with an external regulator will definitely cause weird charging and running issues. Even more so if someone put on a one-wire alternator.
You need the 1961 Olds Chassis Service Manual and the 1962 supplement to determine whether your wiring is compatible with an alternator.
Check the alternator plug. One for an external regulator unit will look like | | . If the alternator is internal regulator the plug looks like - - .
An internal regulated unit combined with an external regulator will definitely cause weird charging and running issues. Even more so if someone put on a one-wire alternator.
You need the 1961 Olds Chassis Service Manual and the 1962 supplement to determine whether your wiring is compatible with an alternator.
#7
#8
That's a great point regarding generator vs. alternator on a 1961; and, which is installed on this vehicle - gen vs. alt. I'd suspect a significant difference in type/style of VR used between the two. As suggested, review the wiring & components are compatible.
#9
The charging system should be checked with a voltmeter and an ammeter to determine the current output and which direction it is flowing. The battery should be fully charged and then load tested. If it is a generator it may be as easy as incorrect polarity.
To the OP, post a picture of the setup. Good luck!!!
To the OP, post a picture of the setup. Good luck!!!
#11
That is a generator driven by the belt. Let the battery sit overnight disconnected and measure the voltage, reconnect and start the car and rev the engine to about 2K rpm's and measure the voltage. Continue to measure the voltage until the car shuts off and post the results. An ammeter is what is really needed for a good test. This could be a bad regulator (new), generator, battery, wiring connection or a generator that hasn't been polarized. Do you have an older auto electric repair shop in town to test it instead of replacing parts?
Noticed the spark plug wires tie-wrapped together. That is not regarded as good practice, there should be separation to prevent crossfires. Wires should cross each other at right angles if crossing is necessary.
Nice original engine bay with some patina.
Good luck!!!
Noticed the spark plug wires tie-wrapped together. That is not regarded as good practice, there should be separation to prevent crossfires. Wires should cross each other at right angles if crossing is necessary.
Nice original engine bay with some patina.
Good luck!!!
Last edited by Sugar Bear; June 7th, 2022 at 05:58 PM.
#12
Most modern DMM (Digital Multi Meter) devices are capable of measuring amperage, as well as volts & ohms. Do you have a DMM capable of reading amperage?
BTW: I'm just curious to know if you have a device capable of measuring amperage. I don't want to get in the middle and between what Sugar Bear is offering in terms of directions/suggestions because he knows his stuff.
BTW: I'm just curious to know if you have a device capable of measuring amperage. I don't want to get in the middle and between what Sugar Bear is offering in terms of directions/suggestions because he knows his stuff.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; June 7th, 2022 at 06:04 PM.
#13
Double check the connections at the regulator. Left to right connections are Battery, Gen (armature), Field. Disconnect the two wires from the regulator connections Bat and Gen. That would be the left and center connection. Only the battery wire should have voltage when the car is not running. It looks like you may have them reversed. The heavy wire from the generator should go to the center regulator connection.
Last edited by stellar; June 8th, 2022 at 12:11 AM.
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