Where do you guys wire the electric choke 12 volt ign. switched power wire. I heard not to put it on the alternator wire and the coil wire but the only other place I can think is in the fuse block in the car. Is there another spot for it, because I'd rather not have to run wire and find a spot to run it through the wirewall. Need response asap, gotta do it tomorrow.

 

The more correct permanent way to wire it would be to do it like the factory wired the rear defroster. If your car has a defroster, then tap in there.
If not, you will need to add a relay, some wiring, and an inline fuseholder, and install it like the factory did.

Basically, the relay coil is driven off the brown wire from the regulator (going to the GEN light on the dash). There might be a side terminal on the regulator for just this relay connection and a condenser cap may be connected to it. This terminal outputs 12V ONLY when the alternator is turning, but is very low current - not enough to drive the choke heater.
The relay would switch current from the horn relay distribution, through the fuse holder, through the relay contacts, to the choke coil.

Here is how I did mine:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalb...7602930020786/

And her eit is installed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalb...7602930020786/

Of course this is for a 72 but the setup will be similar.
The actual wiring is in the chassis manual, which is at home. Pretty easy...

 

There are an infinite number of ways to do this. I recently installed an E-brock with electric choke on my 62. I use an oil pressure switch so that the choke is not activated unless the engine is running (and has oil pressure). I ran a fused wire from the BATT terminal on the alternator to the switch, and from the switch to the choke. Very simple to wire and very clean. I like to use the Standard P/N PS64 switch. The middle terminal works the OIL light, the other two are a normally open switch that closes with oil pressure. Use these to control the choke.

 

I followed Joe's electric choke wiring advice and used the oil sender to operate the electric choke.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ke-wiring.html

But as soon as I hook up the battery the oil and gen dash lights come on, w/o the key turned. And if I turn the key the car will not attempt to start (no power).

So, I tested the oil sender switch; it is "hot" at the middle connector (oil light), and "hot" at the side connector (wire from battery post on alternator) and NOT "hot" going from side connector to electric choke.

Need to know where to check next.

d1

 

OK, try this. You'll need a volt-ohm meter or a powered test light.

Remove all wires from the sender.

With engine not running, (zero oil pressure), the center terminal should be grounded. The two side terminals should both be open, neither connected together nor to ground.

With the engine running, the center terminal should be open. The two side terminals should be connected together and neither should be connected to ground.

If this works, the switch is good, so check your wiring. If not, replace the switch.

 

Can't get motor running-so could not do that series of steps.

Not sure if I did this correctly. But with all wires disconnected from sender. I tested the center terminal for ground. I then placed the terminal ends from the multimeter on the center terminal and on one of the side terminals and got an audible beep (closed/shorted circuit). I did the same thing to test the other side terminal and no tone was present (open circuit).

So, is the brand new senderbad or am I testing this all wrong.

d1

On another note: I am not getting power to the starter terminal. I am getting power from the battery to the solenoid, but my test light does not illuminate when the key is in the run position (when touching the post or stabbing the wire). Is there a fuse somewhere in the panel?