Distributor
October 6th, 2018, 10:49 AM
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,751
I have not looked at specs, but it is likely different initial advance setting and different mechanical advance curves. The weights and center bar may be different but all the other parts should be the same.
October 6th, 2018, 07:37 PM
#4
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,751
I looked up the specs for the distributors. I don't see any problem with using it with your engine. The advance is less aggressive, just make sure the total advance is correct (let the initial be whatever it ends up being) and you should be OK.
Distributor.....Advance Starts.............Full Advance
1111977.......0.4-2.4 @ 500RPM.......12 @ 2000
1111979.......0-3.5 @ 575 RPM.........16 @ 1500.
Vacuum advance specs are identical for the two:
10-13" vacuum to start plunger; maximum advance = 12.8º @ 25" vacuum
All of the above are in distributor degrees, so multiply x2 for crank degrees.
Distributor.....Advance Starts.............Full Advance
1111977.......0.4-2.4 @ 500RPM.......12 @ 2000
1111979.......0-3.5 @ 575 RPM.........16 @ 1500.
Vacuum advance specs are identical for the two:
10-13" vacuum to start plunger; maximum advance = 12.8º @ 25" vacuum
All of the above are in distributor degrees, so multiply x2 for crank degrees.
October 6th, 2018, 07:58 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 124
I looked up the specs for the distributors. I don't see any problem with using it with your engine. The advance is less aggressive, just make sure the total advance is correct (let the initial be whatever it ends up being) and you should be OK.
Distributor.....Advance Starts.............Full Advance
1111977.......0.4-2.4 @ 500RPM.......12 @ 2000
1111979.......0-3.5 @ 575 RPM.........16 @ 1500.
Vacuum advance specs are identical for the two:
10-13" vacuum to start plunger; maximum advance = 12.8º @ 25" vacuum
All of the above are in distributor degrees, so multiply x2 for crank degrees.
Distributor.....Advance Starts.............Full Advance
1111977.......0.4-2.4 @ 500RPM.......12 @ 2000
1111979.......0-3.5 @ 575 RPM.........16 @ 1500.
Vacuum advance specs are identical for the two:
10-13" vacuum to start plunger; maximum advance = 12.8º @ 25" vacuum
All of the above are in distributor degrees, so multiply x2 for crank degrees.
im having spark knock problem in the car but not sure if there is not more then a distributor timing order .
I’m not sure the original owner even has it in correctly, the advance is all the way in the back and number one is in the back on the right side of center. Talked to a person today and his is in the front and points window is in the back. Got this distributor to try and see if it changes anything
October 6th, 2018, 08:47 PM
#6
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,751
It doesn't really matter where the plug wires are or where the advance can is, as long as the rotor is indexed so it points to #1 at TDC.
If you have not checked the timing with a light (initial and full mechanical advance), you should do that before anything else.
Points window in the back? Does he have enough room to adjust the points?
If you have not checked the timing with a light (initial and full mechanical advance), you should do that before anything else.
Points window in the back? Does he have enough room to adjust the points?
October 7th, 2018, 05:05 AM
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 124
It doesn't really matter where the plug wires are or where the advance can is, as long as the rotor is indexed so it points to #1 at TDC.
If you have not checked the timing with a light (initial and full mechanical advance), you should do that before anything else.
Points window in the back? Does he have enough room to adjust the points?
If you have not checked the timing with a light (initial and full mechanical advance), you should do that before anything else.
Points window in the back? Does he have enough room to adjust the points?
October 8th, 2018, 03:47 AM
#8
'87 Delta 88 Royale
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Margate, England
Posts: 2,513
Before checking the timing check the dwell. Particularly if the window is inaccessible, could be the points were gapped but the dwell wasn't checked. It's fair to say if the points gap is right the dwell should also be correct, but always verify.
Roger.
Roger.
October 8th, 2018, 08:17 AM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 124
I dug and found my tach and dwell, just been 30 plus years since I’ve used it 😁
Not sure what the prior owner did or his mechanical capabilities so it’s hard to tell
October 17th, 2018, 07:29 AM
#10
The automatic distributor should be less likely to ping. It also has more of a "dud" advance curve offering lesser performance.
If you have an issue with pinging, its likely that the advance springs are worn and stretched, allowing too much timing too fast. Most aftermarket recurve kits offer up even lighter springs, and weights that don't fit right so the problem wouldn't necessarily go away. You can try to find someone to rebuild/recurve the distributor for how your engine is currently set up, which typically runs around $200.
www.advanceddistributors.com is one place I know well. ;-)
If you have an issue with pinging, its likely that the advance springs are worn and stretched, allowing too much timing too fast. Most aftermarket recurve kits offer up even lighter springs, and weights that don't fit right so the problem wouldn't necessarily go away. You can try to find someone to rebuild/recurve the distributor for how your engine is currently set up, which typically runs around $200.
www.advanceddistributors.com is one place I know well. ;-)
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