Digitails LED tail light kit
#1
Digitails LED tail light kit
Anyone have experience with the Digitails LED tail light conversion kit?
I'm thinking of installing this on my '72 convertible project. It's gonna be my daily driver and want quick and bright brake lights. Thanks!
Rodney
https://digi-tails.com/1971-72-cutla...light-panels-0
I'm thinking of installing this on my '72 convertible project. It's gonna be my daily driver and want quick and bright brake lights. Thanks!
Rodney
https://digi-tails.com/1971-72-cutla...light-panels-0
#3
Cool but 219! I bet if you went to radio shack and watched youtube for 15 min. you could be in business for about 40 bucks and an hour of your time. cut a hobby panel to fit the light housing and daisy chain all the LED's you can dream of for each light. 20 min. of youtube and you cold make them blink a sequence.
#4
Cool but 219! I bet if you went to radio shack and watched youtube for 15 min. you could be in business for about 40 bucks and an hour of your time. cut a hobby panel to fit the light housing and daisy chain all the LED's you can dream of for each light. 20 min. of youtube and you cold make them blink a sequence.
#6
That's way I said 20min of youtube would get you a circuit board few cap and resistors and you'd be good to go. the LED will only draw as much power as it needs, a test light doesn't blow when you hook it straight to the battery. BMW's for example have a voltage/resistance sensor for the tail lights.( to tell you when a tail lights out on the dash) If you just crammed a bunch in there and hooked it up. it would work ya but it would also say the light is out.
#8
Not quite as custom, but has anyone tried replacement bulbs like this? Might have to replace the flasher for blinkers/hazard lights to work with LED's
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pl...FepFMgod2HYAgA
Thinking about buying LED's for all my interior bulbs to keep the yellowed lenses from getting any worse, especially the map light.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pl...FepFMgod2HYAgA
Thinking about buying LED's for all my interior bulbs to keep the yellowed lenses from getting any worse, especially the map light.
#10
I did a lot of projects using LED lighting strips. It's very simple on a 12-14V, it comes with 3M backing tape, make a shape stick it on, daisy chain and power up.
They can be cut to 3" (3 LED's) size and every 3" there is a micro processor. They draw as little as 125-130mA per foot, we have wired 16'(5 meters) on a single fused wire without burning out anything. you can probably do more but I wouldn't recommend.
They can be cut to 3" (3 LED's) size and every 3" there is a micro processor. They draw as little as 125-130mA per foot, we have wired 16'(5 meters) on a single fused wire without burning out anything. you can probably do more but I wouldn't recommend.
#11
Edit: my car is a 52k mile original documented and I put last 36k miles on it.
#12
I did a lot of projects using LED lighting strips. It's very simple on a 12-14V, it comes with 3M backing tape, make a shape stick it on, daisy chain and power up.
They can be cut to 3" (3 LED's) size and every 3" there is a micro processor. They draw as little as 125-130mA per foot, we have wired 16'(5 meters) on a single fused wire without burning out anything. you can probably do more but I wouldn't recommend.
They can be cut to 3" (3 LED's) size and every 3" there is a micro processor. They draw as little as 125-130mA per foot, we have wired 16'(5 meters) on a single fused wire without burning out anything. you can probably do more but I wouldn't recommend.
#13
Right on the money! 12v SMD LED Flexible strip would be the way to go. The Pure White is VERY BRIGHT.
- Eric
#15
100% right.
I'm thinking of using those lights as a work light I can connect to the battery, though.
Actually, at those prices, I wonder if I can attach strips of the waterproof LEDs to the underside of the hood and the insides of the fender liners to use as an always-ready high-quality under-hood trouble light that won't kill the battery.
- Eric
I'm thinking of using those lights as a work light I can connect to the battery, though.
Actually, at those prices, I wonder if I can attach strips of the waterproof LEDs to the underside of the hood and the insides of the fender liners to use as an always-ready high-quality under-hood trouble light that won't kill the battery.
- Eric
#16
100% right.
I'm thinking of using those lights as a work light I can connect to the battery, though.
Actually, at those prices, I wonder if I can attach strips of the waterproof LEDs to the underside of the hood and the insides of the fender liners to use as an always-ready high-quality under-hood trouble light that won't kill the battery.
- Eric
I'm thinking of using those lights as a work light I can connect to the battery, though.
Actually, at those prices, I wonder if I can attach strips of the waterproof LEDs to the underside of the hood and the insides of the fender liners to use as an always-ready high-quality under-hood trouble light that won't kill the battery.
- Eric
#18
HI Cdrod:
I love the theory of using LED lights in automotive applications.
I have been looking for replacement solutions that I could use on my car.
The link you posted looks interesting.
The PDF is quite detailed and even tells you about the flasher change.
The only thing I could not find was the Lumens for running lights and break light modes and the total current.
So far, all of the LED solutions I have seen are much dimmer (fewer lumens) than the stock incandescent bulbs.
Lower wattage is Great, but lower Lumens are Bad.
Example:
Typical incandescent 1157 low 38, High 402 Lumens and cost 1 buck.
Most LED 1157 will only be 50% as bright and cost $10-20
If anyone finds a LED 1157 that is brighter than an Incandescent version, ping me. Thanks.
I love the theory of using LED lights in automotive applications.
I have been looking for replacement solutions that I could use on my car.
The link you posted looks interesting.
The PDF is quite detailed and even tells you about the flasher change.
The only thing I could not find was the Lumens for running lights and break light modes and the total current.
So far, all of the LED solutions I have seen are much dimmer (fewer lumens) than the stock incandescent bulbs.
Lower wattage is Great, but lower Lumens are Bad.
Example:
Typical incandescent 1157 low 38, High 402 Lumens and cost 1 buck.
Most LED 1157 will only be 50% as bright and cost $10-20
If anyone finds a LED 1157 that is brighter than an Incandescent version, ping me. Thanks.
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