Deoxidizing a fuse block. And then some.
March 12th, 2022, 11:48 PM
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Deoxidizing a fuse block. And then some.
Had time tonight and thought I’d get deeper than sensible on my ‘66 Starfire. It’s working well, but oxidation on the fuse block has been bugging me.
So I took an hour or 2 to pull all the fuses, spray Deoxit 5 on the fuse block contacts (with paper towels to catch overspray), blow out the contacts with compressed air, and polish the fuse ends just to be sure maximum voltage is getting through.
When I stuck the fuses back in, I went out of my way to orient them so that that “fat” or “thick” part was facing forward to make it easy down the road to spot a popped one. This is picky, but might save me a few minutes years from now. If the fat/thick/wide part is facing up, it’s much harder to see if a fuse is blown. Especially as my eyes age…
From the factory, my Olds fuses for circuits like power windows varied from 20-30 amps. Because I’ve added power seats, the block labels call for 20 amps, but Chassis Service Manual calls for 30. Similar story with the Radio. Standard AM radio calls for 9 amps, but if you have the reverb unit, the CSM calls for 15 amp fuse. Point is, what’s printed on the block is not the whole story depending on the options on your car.
While I was in there, I took a very small screwdriver and popped a few of the high amp circuit female brass connectors for things like the Wipers and A/C just to clean them up with a dremel to ensure good voltage.
Anyway perhaps there’s a tip in here for some of you.
Cheers
cf
So I took an hour or 2 to pull all the fuses, spray Deoxit 5 on the fuse block contacts (with paper towels to catch overspray), blow out the contacts with compressed air, and polish the fuse ends just to be sure maximum voltage is getting through.
When I stuck the fuses back in, I went out of my way to orient them so that that “fat” or “thick” part was facing forward to make it easy down the road to spot a popped one. This is picky, but might save me a few minutes years from now. If the fat/thick/wide part is facing up, it’s much harder to see if a fuse is blown. Especially as my eyes age…
From the factory, my Olds fuses for circuits like power windows varied from 20-30 amps. Because I’ve added power seats, the block labels call for 20 amps, but Chassis Service Manual calls for 30. Similar story with the Radio. Standard AM radio calls for 9 amps, but if you have the reverb unit, the CSM calls for 15 amp fuse. Point is, what’s printed on the block is not the whole story depending on the options on your car.
While I was in there, I took a very small screwdriver and popped a few of the high amp circuit female brass connectors for things like the Wipers and A/C just to clean them up with a dremel to ensure good voltage.
Anyway perhaps there’s a tip in here for some of you.
Cheers
cf
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